aki334

I agree it is not for you, most people that do mods. most likely know what they are doing have money to buy new part if they change their mind. I like to experiment even if I know that there is danger of something going bad. So you either have a heart to do it or don't. What I did is nothing too complicated. The worst thing you can do is spend money on buying new OEM Thermostat. Sir, I respect your input. Maybe manicure pedicure or cooking is more up your ally Sir.

Alternators are very simple but not that simple as many of you think. People think - Uh - battery is charging I see 14V. Yes, that is one of the things but here I will tell you couple things that can cause bad idle even if your alternator is charging battery. - diodes can go bad and your alternator can be sending certain amounts of AC voltage. it will still charge battery and your meter at 20 dc V setting will show everything normal. - charging current with no load or constant (same load) should be nice and even, not jumping up and down by 3-4 Amps every half second - it will still charge battery and will show you everything normal with your meter. EMI from alternator- can case all kinds of confusion to nearby sensors and PCM and still be charging. Thank you for the input.

This is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you.

No I never play with cold air intake. IAT sensor is inside of MAF it is possible that it is somehow picking up hot underhold air. Or in stop and go traffic on a hot day when cooling fans turn on, the hot air is pushed under the car and it could be sucking the same air back in. I am not sure. Stop and go in big city traffic is horrible on cars. I am in Chicago and traffic sometimes can be like a parking lot. I will try to wrap around the sensor just for testing purposes just to see if it changes. But now when I think about it even at highway speeds it will read 25-30F more than outside temperature. I have the ultragauge constantly connected to obd2 and constantly monitor live data. OTC Genisys professional scanner also sees the same temperature.

lol at last we agree on something

Another tire that I loved and was not that expensive but was not really good in snow was Kumho Solus KH-16. I have never seen Kumho tires with side wall problems (low spots on the sidewall). That tire had really nice linear steering and steering weight to it. The older it gets the better it gets most likely threads are not flexing that much.

I would not do it. It is like trying to decide should you marry prostitute or not.

Hello Sir, do you have aftermarket wheels? I can bet you do. And your offset is far from 55mm if you continue using those wheels you will become expert in wheel bearing changes. Imagine you have deep dish rims and the tires are sticking out by 1/2" now imagine you park your car on the sidewalk curb and only have 1" of the wheel or less on the curb the rest is in the air. Nothing wrong but if you know little physics you will understand it how much stress you are putting on your bearings. Sorry I just realized someone bumped this post and I replied I did not check the date.

ammcinnis, please Sir answer my above question. How can this happen if the intake air temperature at 90F ambient temperature is 145F according to scan tool? It is basically like trying to freeze something while heat gun is constantly blowing at it inside of the 220F room. Reply

Quote: Originally Posted by ammcinnis View Post Good question. The abrupt pressure drop across the throttle plate, especially at idle and during closed-throttle deceleration, is also accompanied by a temperature drop. How can this happen if the intake air temperature at 90F ambient temperature is 145F according to scan tool? It is basically like trying to freeze something while heat gun is constantly blowing at it inside of the 220F room.

It is ok to thank the above poster that joined you, but both of you need to know the differences in the cooling system between h6 and h4 to comment correctly. And from what I have read you guys have no idea how your fans operate. Yes Sir, very nice I agree that is the temperature that is should be. However, your h6 fans are PWM controlled which means they start turning on at 30% speed at lets say 180F then slowly increase to 50% at 190F then 70% at 210F and etc.... H4 engines only turn the fan at low speed around 215F and high speed at 221F if I remember correctly . Now you know... you have nice setup be happy.. - thank you for your input -Al

Sir, on H-6 fans run little different from H 4 your fans kick in certain percentage at certain temperature it is PWM controlled. Example: 30% speed at 185F 50% at 195F 70% at 210F - just an example on h4 fans kick on at 215 at low speed and at 220 F at high speed (something like that, I am not 100% sure about the numbers but there are only two temperatures and two speeds High and Low. - which is shitty setup in my opinion. If you have a project car I suggest you look up coolguy.com and get PWM Fan controller from him. thank you for your input. - Al

How can this happen if the intake air temperature at 90F ambient temperature is 145F according to scan tool? It is basically like trying to freeze something while heat gun is constantly blowing at it inside of the 220F room.

Yes Sir. thank you for confirming what I said exactly they are within one needle width from each other (analog vs digital) and that difference is 100rpm. Everywhere in the world, if you see a gauge and lets say it is a pressure gauge and if the needle is on the 100 psi that means it is 100 psi we do not have to calculate any offsets +/- certain amounts. So also in every automotive school and class I have been, if the rpm needle shows 500 I read it as 500 unless there is something wrong with gauge calibration. Guys that have scan tools will know what I am talking about. Why everything with you has to be so complicated Sir in life? If I go to ATM machine and say I need $500 I type in 500 to get $500, I do not expect to type 550 or 600 to get $500.

Hi Sir, me again. Please check again Sir. Mine are Good Year Assurance All-season and they are 20lb unless they gave you different tires. OK. now I see that 2015 came with Fuel Max, My 2017 came with good year assurance all season - and they were horrible first 35K. GOODYEAR ASSURANCE ALL-SEASON Specs for Selected Tire SIZE UTQG MAX. LOAD MAX. INFLATION PRESSURE TREAD DEPTH TIRE WEIGHT RIM WIDTH RANGE MEAS. RIM WIDTH SECT. WIDTH TREAD WIDTH OVERALL DIAM. REVS. PER MILE COUNTRY OF ORIGIN* 225/55R17 97T SL 600 A B 1,609 lbs 51 psi 9/32" 20 lbs 6-8" 7" 9.2" 7" 26.8" 780 US

Yes Sir, but this does not apply for cars at sea level. Just like on the 10000 ft mountain you can boil eggs at 20F less than at sea level and pilot's blood can boil at certain altitudes due to the pressure differences this extremes we can not say apply to cars on the ground. Here is one simple question for you from a very simple man. Did you ever open your car's hood after driving for 1 h or more at 90F outside weather. Did you feel the heat that hits you in the face? There is no way I can expect to see icing on the throttle body or anywhere on the engine in that situation. Thank you for the informative chart I will consider it if I ever learn to fly a plane. But chances are I am not that lucky. Also do not forget that the temperatures at higher altitudes are on average 23F at 10000 ft, 5.5F at 15000 ft, -12F at 20000 ft, -30F at 25000 ft so there you go why you need TB to be heated on the planes. And that is why you see snow on the top of the mountains, and at sea level people are swimming in the ocean.

OK. you can think whatever you want Sir. but I have never heard of icing between 40F-90F especially under the hood where all the heat from inside the engine is moving up and heating under hood area. Intake air going through dry paper filter is going to eliminate most of the moisture and if there is any it will evaporate by the time it reaches intake. Also connect the scan tool and drive in bigger city like Chicago with a lot of stop and go traffic in 90F with AC on. You will see the temperature going to 221F and the needle still shows normal. I am not saying that there is anything wrong, it is just too hot in my book for engine to take this high temperatures every day in during summer seasons. If you live in areas with low traffic you do not have anything to worry. But as I said connect the scan tool see the numbers for yourself then comment.

hello to all again, while driving around with OBD2 scanner connected and monitoring live data I have noticed that the RPM gauge on the instrument cluster reads between 75-100 rpm lower than it is. So when you see the RPM needle go to 500 rpm line, it is actually 600 rpm. Also your engines run as high as 221F and your coolant gauge will stay at normal operating temperature starting at 190F - this is so it does not scare people that their car is overheating.

I am sure that they have tested engines for a long time, and their main goal is to squeeze every drop of the fuel so they can put it on the paper and say "look how economical this car is." However, I do not think they think beyond 10 year of people owning their cars. Heat is the killer of automatic transmissions. I will sacrifice one oz of fuel for the head gasket and transmission any time. And most thermostats are fail safe, what about if thermostat fails to stay open when it fails? - you have the overheating engine and probably head gasket to pay for. In my case I will have at last some circulation and fans will kick on and keep cooling recirculating coolant. At the end of the day it is very cheap modification new thermostat is $15.

wow 1 mm. That will be hard to monitor.

Good eye, you are absolutely correct. I expressed myself wrong. I will correct it.

I have nothing against your suggestion but for myself why is the equal tire tread all around so important in this case? I wonder if you are referring to alignment issues where edge or the tires are worn out or edges are all good and no alignment issues but tire thread depth is just different on all 4 tires? As I said nothing against your suggestion I just want to learn more if I can. How can you get unequal thread on AWD? Thanks - al

hello Sir, I do not know if you have already solved the problem, but try this: Engine off, Key out, remove the 10A fuse, take your multimeter black lead to negative battery post or anywhere on the good metal part of the car that is not painted, and take the red meter lead to the both sides of the contacts where the fuse was plugged in. Oh, the meter must be set to the function that beeps or low ohms. Let me know what you find. Another thing you can check if the bulbs are original power (W) . I will tell you the rest of the procedure why not , if you hear the beep or you see some ohms that means your dome light circuit is shorted to ground. So, keep the multimeter connected while is beeping and wiggle the wires that you were playing with by the fender. or near the dome light. If you hear the beep stop while wiggling your wires, you have found the problem, look for damaged insulation or pinched wires. Also find the wire diagram post it here and I will help you with the rest.

Hello to all, I just wanted to share my experience with the Good Year Assurance tires that were on the car originally. The first 35K miles they were horrible. Steering constantly required micro adjustments and long trips were tiring. Now I can take off hands from the steering wheel and it will track straight with confidence. The steering finally feels precise and planted with nice weight to it so do not throw them away. Keep them for summer at last. There is also one good reason why you should keep them if you like good MPG and faster acceleration. Well, they are one of the lightest tires you can find. Example 225 55 17 is only 20lb everything else is at last 2-9lb more. If we go by the physics, you want the wheels to be as light as possible for faster acceleration and breaking. And the best is when the majority of the wheel's weight is inside the center. Here is one challenge for you guys: post here if you find tire lighter than 20 lb in 225 55 17 size I really would like to see what tire is that and I hope it is in normal price range.

- there are two coolant lines going into the throttle body making the throttle body sometimes 220F same as the engine which in my opinion is stupid if the goal for the engine is to breathe as colder air as possible. So what I did is I removed the both hoses and connected them with 3/8" od barb fitting from Home Depot. Subaru did good with plastic intake manifold which does not absorb a lot of heat from the engine so we do not need hot throttle body. The purpose of this is so in winter the plate does not freeze. I have read that some guys even in Canada with this mods do not have any issues in the winter. The second mod is drilling 1/8" hole in the thermostat same location as the relief valve just opposite side. It will keep your engine at 196 F with AC on on 90 F day. In all other situations it will be much cooler than before but will never be under 196 F. It will help with eliminating air pockets during coolant changes and the temperature will have less hot cold spikes. There will be constant circulation of coolant with the 1/8" hole. Before the temperatures were going onto 217-220 range. If it is really hot outside and you do not have ac on it will behave like OEM setup, but once you turn ac on it will drop to 196F which is what you want. I do not like engines running over 200 F. With this mod no drops in MPG. also do not forget temperatures at higher altitudes are on average 23F at 10000 ft, 5.5F at 15000 ft, -12F at 20000 ft, -30F at 25000 ft so there you go why you need TB to be heated.