aki334

No you must have premium or limited model. Mine is basic so only comes with buckets. Anyway whatever makes you happy. I know you are limited. You probably can't locate your country on the map and have never seen other civilization outside of your village judging by how well you know how to find this seats for your farm's shithouse. You had to drive 156 miles to the nearest McDonald's to get free WIFI to be able to post here. How you know about amazon online shopping confuses me.

I do not have scope, I am still looking for one (they are expensive). I did check diodes when alternator was cold never remembered to check when alternator gets hot. I did have clamp amp meter and amperage was jumping +/-3 Amps with same load at idle. Scope would show that much better. Checked for AC mV on battery posts with idle but of course DVOM is too slow to show any abnormal spikes.

alternator was charging normally. This once happened to me on GM car. I had p300. Everything was normal, replaced sparkplugs, no vacuum leaks, replaced ignition coils, replaced injectors and just gave up. I drove the car with slight misfire for a long time. One day alternator failed it was not charging. I put in the new alternator (Duralest Gold from AZ) and engine worked so smooth I could not believe. Since then I learned alternators can cause ghost misfires that most technicians will overlook.

Thank you Sir for taking your time to do this for us, every information is valuable we need more post like this.

Hi all I am just posting my experience hope it will help somebody some day. When I had engine shaking problem due to the alternator I was getting misfire on cylinder #4 small count every driving cycle but not enough to illuminate check engine light for P0304. So if you have a good scanner that can read live cylinder misfires or scanner capable of reading mode 6 and if you see misfire on cylinder 4 and you checked sparkplugs, coils and vacuum leaks it could be your alternator causing this. I hope this will help somebody some day. Note this is on 2.5 l engine.

24 responses regarding oil change OMG. It is one bolt.

Do it yourself, if you fail the next time you will do it better it is the only way to learn or all your life you will depend on others to fix. PM me if you need step by step directions. Unfortunately this forum is all about what wheels someone put on.... even people hardly can change their own oil. If somebody offers some help they try to put him down with unnecessary comments. Remember you bought your car, the car did not buy you... if you f up something it is not the end of the world. In life you can buy anything except mother. Everything else can be replaced.

LOL, if you watch carefully you will see that he shifted into "R" for racing

I do not want to be always a bad guy. Many things for you are hard to understand which is understandable. There is a lot of things I would tell you right now but I will be nice and keep it to myself. Oh remember your comment that the throttle plate on our Subaru can freeze at 90F outside with engine running at 212F LOL. Thus why you do not understand simple analogy with the bucket of water. Anyway, guys that experience this, trust me, I had this problem. I replaced ATF II, cleaned oil pan and magnet. To avoid this negative comments of people that never dropped the trans oil pan - PM me for more details.

Hi all, If you have this the best way to describe is feeling like you are sitting on the bucket of water when stopping and the water is splashing under your seat and you feel that water movement then: Your CVT transmission filter is clogged, your cvt pan needs to be cleaned, magnets cleaned and add additional magnets on the bottom of the cvt oil pan (on the outside) your will love your cvt again. I hope this will help somebody who is loosing hopes. Remember opening your cvt oil pan will void cvt warranty. But if you are like me and take actions no matter at what cost than try it.

that is gray connector b147 = rear washer motor 100% connector b44 is for horn LH and that is right above the b147 connector so leave it hanging reference: WI-468 and WI-469 from OEM repair manual or pages 7318 and 7319 from pdf I do not know if outbacks have rear wiper, so they are probably using same wiring for outbacks and legacies, just wild guess Pm me for info where to send me 6 pack

Hi all, can you please check your crankshaft balancers at idle in park, do you notice any wobble? mine has slight wobble you can tell by slight belt movement. No accidents no one touched the balancer. Why would it wobble? I did not pay attention in the beginning, wonder if it was Friday engine assembly day in Japan. No wobbling at first startup when rpm is higher than normal when at normal operating temperature. Once the rpm goes down to 800-700 rpm you can see slight wobble.

fog lights, even if you do not have fog lights (base model) wiring is still there ambient temperature sensor could be another possibility, maybe you can check the reading on your dash

Drain CVT oil, remove the cvt oil pan, clean pan and magnet, remove the filter and wash it from the side where the O ring is, then blow with compressed air from the same direction. Put new CVT F-II . Buy 7 quarts, you will need 6.5quarts with filter removal. Then you will come here and thank me I had the same problem and did this myself. You will love your car again. THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY ON CVT. But as you can see dealerships are either unable to repair it because they do not know what to do, or they are just playing dumb, and at the end we are stuck with bad performing vehicles. Note: there are two filters in our TR 580 cvt, you do not need to buy new because the one in the oil pan is serviceable (washable). Do not buy the paper inline filter because you will need to disassemble trans to get to it. So make sure the oil pan, magnet and filter are spotless. If you need more details pm me.

This is one of the reasons I learned to do everything by myself on the car. Imagine how things get left loose on suspension and you think everything is nice and tight in a 90mph curve. How many bolts get stripped and you do not even know.

yes I was about to tell you the same, I just searched couple of pictures of the 2.5L engines online and some of them show the same.

I am trying to figure out the connection between the serpentine belt tensioner that Subaru replaced and your problem. What I think they did with tensioner is they were trying to be cheap and only do 30% of the recommended TSB for alternator. There is a TSB that suggests replacing alternator, tensioner and belt. Search on Amazon you can find new alternator for $191 with tax and delivery. Replace the belt also since it is very easy to do. If that does not fix you can return it to Amazon and get your money back. I only returned it because I was able to clean my old one and the one from Amazon was constantly at 14.33V but the car was not shaking any more. I wish you best luck. Please keep us posted.

Subaru Legacy alternator is designed to work on and off. We have confirmed that our alternators will charge when decelerating. If you do not have any mayor loads ON it will be around 12.33 V If you have some medium loads it will be around 13.45v If you have high loads it will be around 14.22-14.35 so all this is normal and has nothing to do with shaking alternator in my case had some surface rust on stator and dirty slip rings from brush dust that was glued on the slip rings. What you can try for quick fix before going with alternator is cleaning maf/iat and map sensor with electro wash or maf cleaner. If you want to try new alternator I would suggest OEM alternator since aftermarket do not cycle on and off like OEM alternators and your voltage will always be 14.3V.

In my opinion it would be too much work for the results that you would achieve. Not to mention creating a lot of other problems down the road. You need better tires maybe some performance summer tires and you will like it. The more your tires wear the more you will like your steering feel.

if both sides are reading low in general that could be one of the 4 things: 1. low refrigerant 2. Expansion valve stuck closed 3. Orifice tube plugged 4. High side restriction you can evacuate everything replace the components, and charge it with one regular 12 oz can from Walmart. That will bring you very close to 13 oz. - Remember when you evacuate you will suck out the oil from the compressor also so make sure you put in the same amount of oil for ac compressors. Research which oil is used for your type of compressor. Another thing what you can do is connect your multimeter to battery red to positive black to negative open the hood place the DVOM on the windshield so you can see the readings from inside the car. Start the engine and watch the voltage then turn the ac on while monitoring voltage. You should see some decrease in the voltage by at last 1 - 1.5 v then the voltage will raise up to around 14.25V If you do not see voltage drop at all that means you could have pressure related problem or electrical. Pressure related because the pressure switch will prevent ac compressor from turning if pressures are too low or high. And or electrical problems no voltage going to the clutch coil. When you evacuate freon and when you start to charge it with the can. Ac will have to be turned ON on cold and fans blowing at high speed. But since it is out of freon Pressure switch will stop Ac compressor from running and you will not be able to charge. So you will have to connect compressor straight to battery voltage to start sucking from the can. If you are not sure about this leave it to pros.

if you can give us little more history - did anyone play with your AC system before this problem occurred? Did you have front end collision recently or did you buy car used that had front end damage before? - the higher the ambient temperature the higher your AC system pressure will be. If your fans were not working, by now your underhold would be smoking 100% in stop and go city traffic with temps above 80F. As previously suggested you will need SSM4 or good scanner that can read "B" codes. I would not suggest you going to any AC place that does not have the SSM4 or similar or at the end it could cost you more. You can try using Subaru's diagnostic chart with (yes and no) questions to diagnose, and hopefully you will solve your problem before the step where they say connect SSM4. I just checked - sorry - one of the first steps is to connect ssm4 and you basically have 38 things that can go wrong. there are codes 20-58 related to AC. But I do agree if you can, check the simple things first that do not cost you much. How is your ambient sensor reading comparing to the temperature forecast on your phone for your area? is it close by +/- 5F ? What I would do if all the simple things do not work is pay dealer 1h diagnostic time ~$150 to connect ssm4 and tell me the code. Then come back here and tell us the code so we at last have the starting point.

Hi, you will need a good scanner that can read body control module codes that start with "B" good luck. So basically you have stored codes in the BCM but check engine light will not illuminate since it is not related to emissions and will not be stored in PCM to give you code that start with "P" Keep us informed! thanks - al

Yes slip ring somehow had some black dust accumulated and stuck to it. I have cleaned the stator with high grit sand paper (400-500 grit ) from inside it had some surface rust. The stator inside the center is iron and nothing can be damaged. If you open any of the newer alternators you will see what I am talking about. The rotator looked much better. Electro wash spray is is really important to get all the dirt and old dust out especially from the area where brushes are.

Thank you all who posted voltage results. - I just wanted to update you all - After installing new aftermarket alternator idle is as smooth as it can be - so I had the original alternator and some extra time and decided to take it apart - I have cleaned the internals with electro wash and noticed that the two copper rings that brushes ride on were little dirty from brush dust that was stuck to copper rings. -after reassembling and testing the original alternator works like new. Idle is nice and smooth. Since the old one is working now I can return the new one and save me some money. So in short - clean the two copper rings that brushes ride on - you will have to insert paper clip from the back of alternator and push brushes in with "L" shaped 0-ring removal tool to hold brushes inside or you will not be able to reassemble alternator. Clean the heavy windings inside with high greet sand paper then electro wash. Clean the the brushes with electro wash. You will need 17mm Allen socket with impact to remove the pulley. Before you disassemble anything spin the pulley by hand to get the feel of how it should sound. You should not hear any scraping after reassembly. This job is not hard but also is not for everyone, you have to be clean and patient. Mark one line across the alternator halves so you know how to reassemble everything in original location. In the future if you need new alternator then get the original or good used one or if you are good try cleaning like I did. Aftermarket alternators do not cycle on and off like our original ones. They are constantly at 14.25V which can cause some MPG loss.