Marvick08GT

Because you have another code referencing the second O2 sensor, replace that one first. Then you can monitor and see if it is working. If the second O2 is malfunctioning or shorted, it would definitely cause the p0420 to show up.

Seems like this should be in WTB

More than likely it cracked and somebody welded it. Even if someone welded over it to make certain it wouldn't leak, you would never see it anyway. GLWS

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RHF5-14411AA671-Turbo-Charger-for-05-09-Subaru-Legacy-GT-Outback-2-5L-14411AA670-/254651147667 Maybe this is it? Who knows, but I personally ran this turbo for 10k miles on stage 2 and it was already used and on the vehicle when I bought it. I have been nothing but up-front this entire time and have sold numerous parts on multiple forums with no negative feedback. .02 If anybody else wants to message me or talk smack, please post it here like an adult.

Subaru rumble is overrated... Cars are much happier running ELH (applies to all cars not just Subarus). The ONLY downside to ELH is the changing of the sound (if you even consider it a downside). GL

1 set of OEM injectors left!

To the top!

Up up! I might just use this with my grimmspeed like my other car!

To the top, multiple buyers were just window shopping!

Bumpsky!

What does the compressor housing look like? Pictures can help narrow it down. If it is a blouch turbo, they mostly all look the same from the outside. I would guess a 20gxt or higher, as most people use the 8cm exhaust housing on the smaller turbos.

BPT 10 means Blouch performance turbo, 10cm housing. Past that there is no real way to tell without sending it back to blouch, if you are handy you can disassemble and measure the wheels and check. The previous owner doesn't know? The access port may clue you in to who tuned it, they would most likely have a check sheet of the mods.

Need to check the MAF, sometimes the front o2 sensor shorted can cause this. Not saying there aren't larger issues, but trying to get the internet to diagnose your car is insane. Check the small stuff first, if you can't check the MAF you should take it to a shop. GL P.S. are you running the correct ECU/tune? 14 psi is high for stock

Delete

Jrae2424, he didn't say it would be choked out up top, he said it wasn't ideal or recommended. He said there will be power left on the table without using a FMIC. That being said, there are plenty of cars over 400 and even 500hp with the GS tmic, E85 is one hell of a drug! (Charlie Murphy) If I didn't want sleeper status, I would definitely have a FMIC, have had them on all of my turbo cars. (Go ahead and take a rock or a piece of metal to the FMIC and see how that hurts the wallet!) Been there and done that almost 50 times at this point (no, the wife is NOT happy about this number and never will be ) The only way to prove anything would be to have logs, I will have a hybrid SD setup as well. We need another legacy owner with similar setup except FMIC that has an IAT before the throttle body to make a comparison. That being said, the auto trans you have right now might not live to see the difference. Good luck brother!

Talk to a different shop, IAG is a performance shop with performance prices.

Nothing. They remove the manual clutch and/or flywheel and they install your flexplate off your old motor. That allows the torque converter to boltup once the trans is in position. Engines are the same.

I appreciate the pics and info, looks like I will have to pass for now, the crawford can sits a lot higher than the IAG. GLWS!

Any idea of this will interfere with my Crawford V2 AOS? Looks like a tight fit in the passenger strut tower area. Thanks again, ready to make payment, just don't want any issues

Interested in the flexible STI bar. I have a GS tmic, any pics of it installed on your car? Thanks! Pm me your paypal for payment.

There are 2 purge/vent solenoids on these cars from 07/08 up. One is by the boost control solenoid, the other is right behind the a/c compressor. I removed both completely. Confused me at first because there were 2 and the factory lines were not in place (sold them) the factory vent goes to the hard lines and T's to the two solenoids. The one behind the A/c vents to the intake manifold, the other to the inlet. As far as I have researched, the codes can be removed by any tuner.

As long as you buy a reputable brand there should be no issue. Denso is the OEM for subaru, try not to go rebuilt as they are hit and miss if you are not installing it yourself. Napa sells quality parts, my other GT had an alternator from Napa.

Infosecdad, fuel pressure seems high to me, which explains why its running almost 10:1 AFR. I will have a similar setup with E-content on one TGV and the pressure sensor tied into the other. Will be running an Aeromotive unit -6an. Edit:could be the graph is too tiny for my old eyes lol

I actually measured the Cobb MAF housing, it is 2.75" ID (69.85mm). I also measured the GS and it is also 2.75". The factory MAF is 2.5" (65mm), only good to about 300~ (hit MAF limit on dyno with my other legacy, hence the GS intake). If the Cobb MAF housing was the same diameter as stock, why would it require a tune? Not sure what the 70mm is good up to, maybe someone else can chime in. PRE's turbo shootout test car (05 legacy GT) that saw almost 500whp was running a 2.75" MAF.

Holy shit! That about sums it up!