awfulwaffle

The EJ255 in the LGT will feel very similar up top to a JDM 2.0 (though the 2.0 can rev higher), and will have more grunt down low on US gas. Remember that Japanese premium gas has a higher octane rating and the cars there are tuned a bit more aggressively to make use of that. Another thing to consider is that stock LGT power (or stock turbo EJ20 power in any guise) will still only feel 'quick' by modern standards at best. I am in the scenario that Max Capacity mentioned (own shop, working primarily turbo Subarus), and I wouldn't bother trying to stuff an EJ208 in a run of the mill USDM car, turbo or not. Maybe would consider it if I was working on a period-correct JDM replica or something. Otherwise, given the amount of effort, I'd either buy another car or try something fun like an LV3 Vortec with boost. That said, the LGT is a fun platform and definitely an upgrade over the 2.5i. If you buy one, expect to still have to put a few grand into it between maintenance and limited mods once you realize that it can be made more fun.

Got sick of having half a reverse, started pulling apart my stash of 5 speeds to scavenge for parts. Lowest hanging fruit is one that had only a transfer shaft bearing failure in the aft housing, grabbed a transfer shaft assembly from one of the others with bad synchros. Let's see what happens.

65 shipped

Pics are here. The crunched end of the tube is a bit worse than I remember from pre-purchase pics, but still completely workable. No creases in the metal or punctures - I can re-form to round if needed. Otherwise, I'll do 425 shipped if someone wants it as-is to re-form themselves. @Marvick - I can't confirm since I have a different kit, but I think it'll work with an STI-style turbo. I have one sitting myself, and with the Cobb kit all I needed to do was source a U pipe with a reducer coupler on one end and a longer straight coupler on the other end, to replace the 90/flat flange that attaches to the VF40/VF52 style turbos. Can't see a reason why the case would be any different for you.

Flushing out the stores a bit. Bought it a while back and still sitting in the box it came in, ended up going with a Cobb FMIC kit (also from an 08-14 WRX). Have a set of ETS FMIC piping for an 08-14 WRX, with a MAF-less CAI pipe and all couplers/clamps. This kit here, with a TiAL BOV flange and an EGT bung. https://www.extremeturbosystems.com/collections/subaru/products/ets-08-14-subaru-wrx-intercooler-piping-kit?variant=29382743031878 As with the Cobb kit I'm running, this will work for an 05-09 LGT but will be a bit on the tight side when coming around from either side of the IC core into the engine bay. Originally came off of a car that was in a front end collision so one end of the FMIC piping near the intercooler is a little pinched, but no punctures and still functional. I can re-shape to round before sending out if desired. Asking $400 shipped for everything. Pics later this weekend when I actually unpack the box.

Always wondered why everyone recommended that one, thanks for sharing. Good info.

Been there, never going back

Sounds like you're pulling the motor no matter what you do, so why not just do that and pull the heads off. I have seen most of the coolant get pumped into the oil sump when a cylinder wall cracked.

That there is a solid argument for hiding a few kill switches in the car

I figured the forum was gone forever and have gotten started on a heroin addiction in earnest.

Good point on heat soak. I remember the TMIC shootout thread on here that showed virtually all TMICs would eventually heat soak on back to back pulls. Temperature rise during a pull(s) is probably a better performance metric than just temperature delta when cruising along. I'll have to take a few logs here and see how the FMIC compares to the data in that thread, and norutah's clearanced bumper if he's game.

This right here is why I desparately want to trade someone my AVO cans for some SPT or something similarly quiet. I've definitely grown past the rumble rumble phase (not that it rumbles anymore anyways)

You have me itching to practice a bigger cutout on my front bumper. Original piece is trashed anyways, need to find a clean replacement or spray one fresh. Wonder what practical difference the extra space makes. Any chance you're willing to do back to back runs w/ the top ports closed and then open, while logging IAT? Mine, measured just upstream of the throttle body, sits roughly 4-6 degrees over ambient without any extra cuts in the bumper.

Yup, it was about that much too short. Had to cut/weld the cooler to replace the VF40 flange with a pipe that can be clamped into the factory VF38 plastic elbow. I have zero aluminum welding experience so had a friend do this for me, turned out pretty good. No leaks, but it took a few attempts IIRC.

Seems like a good place to start. If you turn up nothing in terms of vacuum leaks and other obvious issues, I'd add the following in this order: Compression test Leakdown test Valve clearance check Also - back on my first wagon, I chased a nasty intermittnet misfire for a long time. Tracked it partly down, finding that pulsation in the fuel system that it hammered the stop screw out of one of the fuel pulsation dampers on the rail. Reinstalling the screw stopped the misfire, but after a while it'd come back and the screw will have backed out again. Never got to run this to ground as my wagon got t-boned during the troubleshooting process, but may be worth popping the plastic cover off of the pulse damper and making sure the screw's still there - mine was sitting sideways on top of the damper, completely backed out. Wish I had had the time to figure out why the screw was getting hammered out, or tried loctiting the screw in place to see if the misfire stayed gone. For any that find the response in the future, this only applies to the sidefeed cars that have pulse dampers on the fuel rails.

Good to know, but the prices are on the spicy side for what they are. Ended up buying a VF40/VF52 type TMIC for the wife's car and modifying it to work with the VF38 because it was the cheapest option by far, but what a chore

Subbed for turbo wisdom. Where the hell did you even find any aftermarket intercoolers for the VF38 (unless you're not in north america)

Found the pod, it's a 2-slot, womp womp

Pull the turbo, no other way you're getting at it that would be anywhere near as easy.

@Claw These are definitely lower mile than the ones I offered.

OCVs, cam gears and oil pump can be cleaned out if you're careful and thorough. There's a video with good cam gear teardown walkthrough somewhere, will have to find it later and post up.

I mean, if you're gonna catch a disease you might as well catch it all the way.

Yup, I clearly don't intend to use it I'll grab some photos after work tonight and PM

Oh shit, just realized I have a pillar pod sitting in storage from my parts car.

You can splice factory inline dampers into the IAG kit, just need to cut the send and return line and fuel line clamp the dampers in place. You can also technically re-use your factory recirc FPR if you want to keep costs down. For a 300-350 whp setup it should flow OK, just may not be able to pass full bypass flow of a bigger fuel pump (340 lph or so) at 100% duty cycle, so your car will start a little on the rich side before fueling corrections kick in. I dealt with that for years without detrimental effect, except some stumbling on hot restarts.