awfulwaffle

This inspires me to do something similar. Yours looks great, but why not open it up all the way?

Good call, same filter on my car too

Hit a flooded section of road with it doing 60 and now I have fuel trim issues to hunt down

You can get it from Flatirons as well.

I took a look at the free model I could get my hands on, but none of the paid ones. I doubt they have much underside/engine bay resolution, but if we can get our hands on a proper solid model that'd be easy enough to add. Still, worth revisiting what's out there. I have space and a pre-facelift wagon, friend has a facelift sedan and Nonamedude has a facelift OBXT. Time is tricky, back in school September to continue my perpetual masters degree. Maybe Nonamedude and I could coordinate scanning if we choose to go that route...

So, sounds like we would be better off getting a car professionally scanned. I'm still down to chip in - anyone else?

Nope, not I. But I'm up there pretty often visiting family. Lots of cool driving and biking roads. Check out Holy Hill

Yep, the center diff is likely damaged, as well as some parts in the tail housing. I bought a parts car a while back that was towed a few miles by the front wheels, supposedly at speeds not exceeding 30 mph. The car did seem to drive and shift OK before I parted it (for the mile or so I drove it), but when I pulled the trans apart the center differential was utterly cooked and there were several pieces cracked/destroyed in the tail housing. I can find some pictures if you're interested. EDIT: all of the above applies to a 5MT, but the components mentioned should be similar between the manual and auto transes. The center diff itself is different iirc.

The guy with a full series of EJ rebuild videos on pornhub beat me to the punch.

It's a filter, nondirectional

I say drive the car - why even have another daily if yours is sorted? Especially given the truism that you'll never get what you put into it back out. Is devaluation due to more wear and tear/accumulated miles on what is objectively a $10k car really worth worrying to the point where you don't even drive the thing you (presumably) built to drive and enjoy? Every time I think about how much time and money I've dumped into mine, I think about what it brings to the table. It's a cool, niche-y wagon that makes good power and handles fantastically. I spend a good bit of time on the road and daily driving this thing through twisty back roads is oftentimes the highlight of my day. Ultimately, I've stopped caring about cosmetic and mechanical minutiae, and learned to just take the car as what it is and enjoy the hell out of it while I can. I intend to run it into the ground - that's the only way I'll feel like I got anything close to my money's worth out of it. My .02.

Yuuup, just as soon as I finish projects that actually make me money, not the other way around.

Cracked 10k on the latest build. Things are going suspiciously well ..

Yup, no easy answer. All I can say is that I managed to wiggle/pull mine enough to get it to pop back in place, so it is physically possible. That said, I don't have any retainers on the TOB so have room to move. You could try pulling one side of the retainer clip out of its hole on the fork to give you more wiggle room, but getting it back in afterwards sounds like a nightmare.

I'm a recent Milwaukee electric impact convert. Beats the hell out of my Earthquake XT pneumatic impact. A bit bulkier, but gets at the same stuff 95% of the time. 1400 ft-lbs claim is absolutely believable.

You can do it with the trans in place. Pull the rubber boot off the shift fork and look down the backside of it to make sure the pivot ball is in the divot in the fork. You and a helper can check the slave cylinder like Max said at the same time, just make sure the pusher is seated into the fork when you do.

Are you sure the clutch fork is properly seated/clipped on the pivot ball? Your described symptoms would occur if it wasn't.

A thousand times this.

I had the shop polish crank journals and also mill down rod end caps to set clearances even. Hit .0025-.0028 clearance on diameter, Manley H-Tuff rods and King standard size bearings. Also learned a valuable lesson, though it probably doesn't apply to you. The bearing clearances are very sensitive to load on the bearing (seated and torqued versus free). ie - measuring the rod bore w/ bolts torqued plus max bearing thickness to calculate clearance gave a dramatically different result versus measuring diameter directly with the bearing installed in the rod. Back to back measurements, calibrated mic and bore gage, difference was around .001-.0015 IIRC

Staked out some random dude in cowboy boots and short shorts (murica) on a beer run at Kroger and traded him hoods. No more scoop for me

Yeah I think so. It'd be waaaaay easier if we could somehow make sure that every partial scan had the same coordinate system zero, else someone would be playing the manual alignment game

I also wonder if there's some setting in software to get it to auto-fill gaps and create a watertight surface or solid body? That'd make post-processing easier as well.

Here's what the scan looks like on import into CAD. Everything's there more or less, but it's kind of rough and definitely patches to fill and surfaces to smooth/repair. I think that's doable but it'd be a process for sure. I wonder if there's a way to improve the resolution? IE scan slower, and maybe more stably? Not really familiar with 3D scanning...

Not a hijack at all! A detailed scan of your 05 wagon would be fantastic.

Tried applying to Trek in a similar function right out of undergrad, didn't even get a second look. I bet there's less than 100 people nationwide (worldwide?) doing that kind of work.