Ninjacheezit

I don’t believe it’s the “better way”. They do it because of thermal expansion. Guess to make em less likely to crack and adjustable fitment per vehicle. I also see a lot of people complaining about other slip join headers saying they eventually leak and stuff like that. I went with ets just because I seen a few dynos comparing killerb and ets on bigger turbos. They made the same gains below 33psi. After that the ets started to spool faster and make more power everywhere. Me personally I was going to see if the gains are good even with a stock location turbo. Gtx3576r is in the future plans tho

The mounting for the flasher button on the back of the plate is a little scratched up. He went the route of mounting his usdm flasher and using washers to space it out. Oval the buttons mounting holes. The hard/cheap way of going about it. But other than that nothing cosmetically visible up front. No scratches or anything like that.

Looking to sell my JDM Double DIN Dash Kit. This is the second one I have. It basically just fell into my lap from a buddy of mine. I’ll get some pictures of it tomorrow. I’m sure all of you guys know what it looks like tho SOLD Edit: pic uploaded no the radio isn't included lol

ETS is trying to tell me this is installer fault and these headers are built on an engine so they should always fit. They are telling me to loosen the clamps and have the studs force it down. I tried this already and it ruined a stud and there still was a big gap like there is in the pictures comparing it on the ground.

I’m bored so I looked it up for you . Based on what I see is they are all completely different. The mounting holes are different for each actuator. Now here is something I should of asked first time around. Is it auto hvac? Driver and passenger have different temperature controls. Or manual? Where whatever the driver does it affects both sides. If it’s auto. It’s 99% the bottom actuator on the passenger side. If it’s manual. Then I honestly don’t know since there is no temperature control on the passenger side then. But sticking your head up there couldn’t hurt regardless.

Cruise control flashes when the cel is on in these cars. So it’s the same problem. Spark plug defouler could work as long as it’s not the o2 sensor itself(split wires or just straight up failed) Most likely the window motor died. Had this happen on my rear passenger one. The vent motor sounds like the correct answer. Look up under the dash on both sides and play with the hvac controls you’ll see what one isn’t working. Sometimes they just need cleaned and regreased or even the arm falls off the pin that moves it. Ac not working I suspect either low Freon or bad compressor All these problems sound simple and easy to fix so nothing to worry about. Unless the cat is clogged instead of just old and inefficient but trust me that brings up a whole lot of driving problems that you’d notice.

Just some internal oil and coolant mixing? I’d probably say it’s the headgaskets. If it is then there is no reason at all it needs a new motor. Swap the gaskets get the heads decked out it all back together and have fun. Honestly don’t know since I personally didn’t look at it. Could always take it to a different place to get a second opinion. Just “it’s the engine” wouldn’t sit well with me since there is multiple things that can break. Headgaskets? Easy ringland? Ok ya that would be time for an engine lol

Ya I tried my hardest to get them to work. I just wasn't meant to go el I guess

here you go. you guys can see its not even and then to make both of them sit flush you can see how the pipes do not line up at all.

Not sure. Kinda sucks. It getting here Saturday means I have to wait until Monday to see what I can do about getting another set. It’s cold outside I wanted to freeze my ass off to hear this thing. Not freeze my ass off to find out it doesn’t fit haha. I’ll post some pics for you guys when I get to my computer.

Honestly I have no clue how it retains it but it’s gonna have to wait a bit. The first set I received will not bolt up to my car. Kinda pissed off about that. With the flanges on the ground they are not even close to being level so when I put it up to my car (even tried to adjust it from the slip joints) there is a big gap that a gasket won’t seal. Thinking I should of just went with the tried and true killerb

So my plans for my car has changed. It's no longer going to be my daily within a couple of weeks. Means I can start getting into some big power . I plan on going rotated with a gtx3576r. In the meantime, I already have the headers I planned on using with that setup which is the ETS Maxflow v2 headers. I'm going to bolt those on and strap it down on the dyno for a revision of my tune. Curious to see what gains I would get with a stockish size turbo and these big tubes. lose spool, gain spool no clue but I'll be sure to post my results for everyone else if they were looking at these headers since it retains the rumble some while still being equal length.

Here you go. Just bare aluminum.

can't seem to find it. found a lot of colors that were supposed to match but then people saying they used it and it isn't even close to matching -_-

Mostly for the bling. It’s my daily right now (will be a summer car here soon) and it will see some 1/4 miles but no road courses.

Any reason for this? Cheaper and good results if prep is the right way or is powder coat on calipers just a no no?

Hey guys I picked up a set of reman brembos from rockauto. They came in uncoated so I plan on getting them powder coated. I was thinking the oem gold would look decent on my car but the place I’m going to doesn’t have a perfect match to it. I was also thinking satin or gloss black. I’m open to any color but nothing too “flashy” like yellow lol My car is 07 new port blue pearl with 04 sti silver bbs (also thinking of getting these powder coated gunmetal)

So the engine harness I have on my car has the tgv connectors cut off. I’m looking to get a Cobb flex fuel kit so kind of need those. I looked on Subaru and apparently there is two different ones. 24020ac850 and 24020ad590. They show up under the unlimited and limited models and the auto and manual models. So does anyone have any clue what the difference is?

Pm sent

Scotch brite is cleaning it up with a little bit of muscle. Maybe it was just a baked on layer of carbon that had some brake fluid or heavy duty degreaser sitting on the spots that made it wrinkle like that.

Don’t think it’s over spray since it’s everywhere in there. I tried just a bottle brush first it got about half of it it. I’ll try some scotch bright next. Maybe it’s after market or a think layer of carbon Edit: just weird if it is carbon build up how it was all wrinkled up in some spots like paint that had aircraft remover on it.

Assumed it came like that from Grimmspeed

So I picked up a used gs uppipe with ewg on it and has their coating. One the inside of the uppipe it is chipping off pretty bad it looked like a leaf was inside their but it was actually the coating. Now clearly I should remove the shipping parts. But should I just remove all of the coating or is it fine or would this stuff damage the turbo blades.

Bump

I’d be interested in a 10in or 12in.