Ninjacheezit

I suppose a prefilter is an option. I looked it up and looks like aem makes one which is the same filter the kstech uses. Any idea if it reduced flow? Well I assume it would at a point but I mean where the car was running richer because of the little more restriction? Or would that only matter if I was at the border limit of the flow of the filter to begin with?

Not yet lol but who knows after e85, ewg, killer b headers. After adding my hta68 10cm my tuner told me the stock airbox was limiting me. Added one of these on and picked up 20hp. I was only making 305 on 21lb. Maybe it was just the oem filter that was limiting me and not the airbox itself.

So basically what the title cars. After getting a car wash with an underbody spray my car would feel like it ran into a wall after about 15psi. Then the next day it was fine like nothing happened. Today it’s a rainy day. Driving my car around it started doing it again. Little bit of boost then boom an invisible wall hits me lol. I get home looked at a few posts of people having the same problem with cai and water getting to the filter. Sure enough I go outside pull the maf and it’s soaked. I still have the fender splash guards on. Anyone else have this problem before? Any way to fix it? I’m gonna assume if it keeps getting wet it’s gonna destroy the sensor and who knows what else.

Just got word it’s making 335/350. But before after one pull the car would start pulling power because of heatsoaking the pw tmic fixed that up. Little dissappointed I didn’t hit the 350 but I think this should be plenty of power and fun for now. Flex fuel will be sometime in the future and who knows maybe I’ll trade the boxer rumble to hit the 350hp mark.... probably not haha

Only thing I didn’t like really is the kstech intake. It’s kind of a tight fit. Really don’t like using screws, don’t want the holes to rust. And the weather striping really doesn’t seal anything.

So got a 08+ Sti Process west tmic on. Found it cheap local. Only problem is it was hitting my clutch reservoir so I had to change it to a wrx/Sti one. Got my kstech cai installed. And scheduled them to revise my tune on Thursday. The pw tmic is really good quality. And very low psi drop. My tune would hit 19.5 in 3rd gear with the new tmic I’m hitting 21psi in 3rd and overboosting to 22psi in 4th.

heres the chart. green is the vf48 on 18psi. black is my hta68 10cm on 21psi and blue is the same thing but with an intake. You can see around 5500 rpms the turbo stops making power from the temps compared to the vf48 making power until redline. tuner thinks id be around 350/370 with the tmic and intake but more importantly the torque should hold a lot better after the tmic.

Welp. Just heard back from the tuner. Car made 305/330. The stock air box limited me quite a bit. (My kstech didn’t come in time sadly) they added one they had in the shop and it picked up to 325/350 without touching the tune. Tuned at 21 psi holds pretty flat until redline but the stock Sti tmic heatsoaking makes the torque curve drop off like it did with my vf48. So for me looks like I’m looking at a small retune in the near future. I’ll add the graph later when I pick it up.

Want everything to work? Expect to replace the wire harnesses from a manual car. That is what I did. If you get the ecu from the same year outback. Then only harnesses needed to replace would be the bulk harness and the ecu. Then there is also the ignition cylinder and biu that needs to be swapped over from the donor car also. Swapping just the ecu will trigger the theft system all those gotta match.

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Ya ID = injector dynamics. It’s $25 per injector you pay shipping both ways. I wish I could find those threads. Only one I could find was from NASIOC he said a 10cm. Made 387 on an airboy which he says is suppose to be around 340 on a mustang. The power is one thing but I’m really interested how the torque curve should look like. On a 2.5 even the 8cm falls of at redline. Hoping the 10cm gains extra power and just keeps pulling.

OBXT same motor as a LGT. So just the engine and your done.

So if you seen my last post asking about the hta68. Well I pulled the trigger and got it. I also picked up a set of used id1050x. Sent the injectors out today to get cleaned up and tested by ID. The turbo looks pretty good. Clearly was rebuilt like he said. Let’s just hope it was by a quality shop . Switching my local tuner. The first guys work on all import. The new guys specialize in subaru. I was told by a few of my buddies I should of been going to these guys to begin with lol. Let’s see if I can get 330-350 with that big 10cm exhaust housing. I’ll be posting my graph whenever it gets tuned. Aiming for dec 10.

Personally if your not sure it has ever been changed I wouldn’t do it. My car had 150k I changed the transmission fluid and I started to have some sloppy shifts. It felt like it should shift in to neutral rev slightly higher then finally shift to the next gear. This was all light-medium throttle. WOT it wasn’t as bad but could feel a difference between 1st-2nd. Now was this bad timing or the fluid change? Who knows but I’ve read other people not recommending to change it if it hasn’t been changed regularly. But a drain and refill has less chance of making things worse since your only replacing bout a 1/3 of the fluid. I did a full replace.

I wouldn’t say a lot of money I got everything need for auto to manual for 800 bucks then I needed a clutch went with spec 2+. So 1400 isn’t chump change but I wouldn’t say it’s extremely expensive when it comes to modifying cars. But yes you do need time. A lot of it the engine and the tranny is the easiest part to swap the wiring is what is annoying and frustrating. And yes on the know how. If you can do simple stuff this isn’t the right job for you. And if you take it to the shop. Well honestly just forget the idea because they would want more than it’s worth. I did an auto to manual swap. While I had a good time doing it and I think it made my car more fun to drive. I will honestly saw it was not worth it as it was my daily driver.

Do able? Of course but it’s time assuming for sure. Engine will swap right over okay easy part is done. Now you have to swap every single wire harness from the outback into your legacy. There might be slight differences in the trunk lights third brake light moon roof stuff like that. But the front of the car will work 100% For whatever doesn’t work in the rear will just need to be repinned. And yes you need the rear half of the wiring harnesses can’t skip it and use your existing. We have a fuel pump module in the trunk. The 2.5i does not have one back there. (Ask me how I know lol) Now for the transmission it’s going to be an automatic ecu so the 5eat more than likely will have to be swapped over to. If you want to keep the manual(if it’s the same as the gt manual I’m not sure) you would need a manual ecu and front wiring harness.

91-94 Legacy ej22T

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I was asking because I found a used hta68 with the 10cm for 400. Just didn’t want to grab it and lose power and regret it. I looked up the turbo a lot. I see 320-340 on Stis with the 8cm. So if those are anything to go by it would put me where I want to be on pump and have plenty of room if I want to go E-85. Just I guess I makes me nervous what if I swap out the vf48 and hate the hta68 lol. Or if I lose power stuff like that haha. Anxiety + mods don’t mix

Thanks. I sent him an email. Curious on his thoughts.

What exhaust housing did you use? 7,8,10? Would happen to have a dyno sheet would you? Or what kind of dyno

The two tuners in my area won’t do that sadly. They want to cover their butts with requiring cobbs flex fuel sensor even if I don’t buy it from them they still want me to have it.

So I’m in the need for more power now (go figure). Has anyone every played around with the hta68 with 10cm hot side? I’m kinda after 350awhp. Which is 50hp more from my vf48 tune. Is it possible to get that goal with that turbo on pump? I know it’s a really good E-85 turbo but I wanted to hold off on that just because the flex fuel kit, the more expensive tune, the ap(never needed one was always opensourced) is another 2500. Let alone I have two E-85 station around me that’s 20 mins away and the other is 35mins.

I did see a few videos online. If they are on the outside(which it felt like most of them were my fingernail would get caught in them) sanding them with 400-800-1000-1200 then shoot it with some clear coat has been working. Honestly might be worth a shot nothing to lose if it doesn’t. And if it works well saved some money.

So I purchased a set of Jdm headlights bout 6 months ago now. They were in really good condition when I got them but now they have a lot of small hairline cracks. Is there anyway to fix this? Maybe just replacing the lens? If I do replace the lens I saw some people say the friction from pulling them apart would cause this problem to. So I would be at square one.