corvairbob

thanks, i figure a new filter if that is the reason it is throwing those 2 codes. i may have him put in some engine flush just before he changes the oil he favors lucas based on what his dad uses. back years ago i used fuel oil for about 5 minutes but that was on older cars and 30 or 40w oil i do not know if i would do that in cars that use 0 or 5 or 10w oil but now i change out the oil at 3 to 5,000 miles. and i have not had issues with sludge in my cars anymore. but back years ago i got old cars that others had and you know how that is. anyway thanks

my girl's boyfriend has the 2005 legacy non-turbo and he told me the other day he had a misfire and the one cylinder had low compression. i pulled the codes and he has p0102-p0113-p0691 so 2 of them look like they may be related to the air filter? who knows when it was last changed. i did find some topics that said a bad pvc valve can set those codes also. and the 691 i related to the radiator fan so those codes do not sound like they are related to the misfire and low compression. however, when i had him start it for me i heard a rattle coming from the driver's side front. what cylinder 4 maybe? and so i looked up parts on rock auto and i see it does not have a lifter system but is a solid type setup. so i guess what i'm leaning at is on of the rocker's adjustments has loosened up and caused the rocker to hit the cam and rattle. i had that years ago on a 289 engine when i put real heave valve springs on it and it started to pull the rocker studs out and it would make that kind of sound. so can anyone tell me if sounds like something that might happen with a loose rocker? the rest of the engine sounds good. he is going to stop over and let me check the p0691 code and also see if the air filter is bad and needs cleaning. so what i will do is put a stethoscope on the engine and listen around it for where that sound is loudest. but it did sound like it was the rockers. thanks, bp.

i will ask him. i do not think it has the scoop but i have not paid much attention to it. at this time I'm busy putting a timing chain in their equinox. the wife thinks it does not have the scoop. i will ask him. i do not think it was modded as he is not the type for that. i believe it is bone stock. thanks

you know i do not know. i guess i should have asked him, but i'm leaning on non turbo. that noise i heard sounded just like a collapsed valve lifter. i have that on my corvair now and then if the engine happens to stop with that valve open the lifter bleed down and take a bit to fill back up. when i was hearing it run it clattered loud and every now and then it got better and then loud again. if it is a rocker hitting the cam i guess that is not doing the cam much good. thanks

ok thanks, i do not think it is injectors as i have hearing aids and i can't hear those noised this one was loud enough for me to hear.

thanks i figure a compression test is in order but what i'm asking is this, what might be going on with that ticking noise? i have a corvair that now and then i get the same sound and that one is a lifter that loses its oil and collapses. but not knowing the workings of the subaru heads yet i'm asking if these have lifters in them to take up lash? if so it might very well be a collapsed lifter that is giving him the low compression on that cylinder. or maybe a rocker that has loosened and is slapping the cam in different spots causing that noise. so maybe someone here knows of this problem and can help a bit by directing me to a possible fix. thanks

ok my girls boyfriend has the 05 legacy and he says it has a misfire and when i listened to it is sounded like maybe #4 cylinder has a tapping sound that comes and goes or gets louder and softer in sound. i told him it sound to me like a rocker is lose or the cam is worn, maybe a bad lifter if they have them. i do not know yet if it has codes if it sets them for lose rockers. hid dad said it had low compression but i do not know if he even took compression readings being he sends out all his car repairs. so for me to start troubleshooting this i guess i have to pull the codes and post any i find here, but i started this because form what i have heard and mentioned here than some may say it has some cam rocker or lifter issue that i can start looking into. i have heard that these engine are bad for taking them off when the engine is in the car? and that mechanics do not like to mess with them. so i'm hopping i can get some answers before i start digging into this one. thanks bp

ok it has been quite awhile and he has not had me fix this so lets call it done. i forgot all about this post. thanks for the help and if he does ever wants to fix it i have most of the answers here.

yes and i have the manual one as one poster showed, if you go back to #12 he showed the cash and i have the dash on the left in that diagram. so because there is a bit of confusion as to it being either a core flush or a mechanical issue. so when he gets the car to me i will 1. take the temp of the hoses, oth by hand and with a scanner 2. take the temp in the cabin both by hand with the scanner and with a temp thermometer 3. actuate all the dials and feel the areas of air flow to see if i can determine the difference between the def the dash and the floor 4.then after i get these done i may decide to do a core flush or take the glovebox out and look at the motors and see what one it not moving or not moving enough. i have not had enough of the newer cars that i had the experience with the core causing no heat on one side. and in all my years i have never had any car that pushed cold from one side and hot for the other, this blending side by side in new to me in repairs. so this is going to be a learning curve. ll the youtubes i found all lean to the inside blending doors and not the heater core. thanks i will return with an update when i get this working as it should just in case other have this issue and it was the motor and or doors int he heatbox, thanks bp.

An 800 CCA battery should be plenty adequate. I just looked at mine, and it's only 650. Even if it's new, it could need a good charge, or even could be defective. Also, it's a good idea to check the battery cable connections, and make sure they are clean and tight. thanks i will be doing a parasitic draw test on it to make sure he doesn't have something stuck on. and i will connect my tester for the alt to see if the tester tells me it is good. it was cold over the weekend and he thought it to be cranking over good but when i got to it and had him crank it i figured it to be a bit low. he said it sat for 2 days/nights so at 5 deg that may have been a bit much for the system. but if it has a drain on the battery even a small drain can cause this issue. thanks for that help on the havc he said the a/c was not working so you never know it just may be that filter if he has one. some say that the heater core is the reason he is not getting heat on the passenger side! but i have never had that happen in any of my cars, so i can't really say for sure. so i may do a heater core flush and see if that helps but if some come back and say no then i will do the mechanical test and service. and if he needs parts i will jam up the door so it blows hot at the dash or floor and then get the part and install it later. so if anyone knows for sure the heater core can cause heat to be cold on the passenger side then i will flush it and that may cure the issue. but being 5 deg out and no water now in the garage i have to run a hose from the house and i just as soon not have to deal with that if not needed. thanks bp.

thanks yes this one is the left photo. and it has heat at the drivers side and cold at the passenger side at the dash. i did not get a chance when i was at the car as he had a low battery and needed a jump start so he could get to work. so this weekend we are going to tear into it. some youtubes showed the manual system with motors still on the passenger side for the blend and i thien defrost. also some ebay seller said theyahve 2 motors with the manual controls so like i said i'm going to take the glovebox out for starters and see if i can get a peek at that side and what is going on. some here also say the heater core is plugged but i kind of find that a bit iffy as the core sets inside the box and the vents just let aire out of that box to the required vents, but hey it just may be so, but first i will see if it is a mechanical part that has failed. tell me do these get out of sync and need calibration if it turns out i have motors. and like you say maybe a lever broke and the passenger side is half open to the outside and letting in cold air and takes a bit of time to get warm. thanks for this update. now i have more info to help figure this out. bp.

ok this is what i got from the subaru website for parts 2005 Subaru Legacy or Outback VIN: 4S4BP61C257378752 WOBK - WAGON OUTBACK; 253 - 4 Cyl 2.5L SOHC EMPI NA; 4W - FULLTIME 4WD; 4AT - 4-Speed a subaru parts reseller on ebay told me this part has this part number 72131ag26a. That is the passenger side temp control module. and it is the passenger side lower motor. does that sound about correct? he said those 2 motors on that side are not the same motor so i sure want to be correct when i take it apart. thanks bp.

ok i was working on the car this morning. he called and said it would not start so 1. it has a new 800 cca battery might be to small for this car? 2. i tried gas in the airbox no start 3. i tried checking spark no spark 4. i jumped it and it started. so the battery may be to small to show spark when it was cranking so slow then i check the heat situation he got good heat from the driver side and warm on the passenger side. 1. the heater core may be plugged? 2. the blend door for the system? 3. the doof that controls between the floor the dash it di have heat a the defroster. also i checked the driver door master switch and it feels like the drivers side switch may be broken as it has no resistance like the other switches have and all other windows do work. did not do a thing with the a/c any thoughts? the vin is 4s4bp61c257378752 the subaru site calls it a legacy or outback 2005 Subaru Legacy or Outback Parts photo of the heat control and the door switch thanks bp

ninj? i can't yet tell you that as my girl called me and asked me to look at her new boyfriends car. so i asked what model engine auto or manual turbo and vin so i can get those answer. i also sent them some inside pictures to have them get back with what system he has. all i can say it is it 2005 subaru legacy wagon type car. i found some yourtubes and they looked the same but like you say i will not know for sure until i check. i'm hoping i do not have to take the console apart like one youtube shows. if he gets it to me i will configure myself up and under the passenger side and see what i can see. if nothing else and it is the blend door i may be able to just push it into the heat zone and lock it there for now. and then locate a motor. by the your tubes one guy took one apart and the motor had stripped the main gear teeth out. but thanks for helping me on this so far.

do not have one handy do you happen to know the the motors on the heater box are both the same? i will just get a motor and have at it and be able to fix what ever motor has failed. thanks bp.