Beamercub

I replaced the belt in April/2019. The squal happens only on humid days.. I guess i could try tightening it or loosening it..

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna stick with Conventional. In this day and age it's rare for a manufacturer to recommend conventional, so they must have done it for a reason. Being naturally aspirated it's not stressed like a turbo or revved to death like a 4 banger..

Was thinking of switching to synthetic... Been doing conventional for past 4 years.....

Belt squeal after car has been sitting or on humid days. Happens when starting car, immediately stop if I turn off A/C. Sometimes I turn a/c off and back on to make noise go away. Otherwise would squeal for 30-45 seconds.. Belt is newer replaced about 6 months ago.. Indication of belt being too tight or loose? The 3.6R is manually adjusted, doesn't have the auto belt tensioner. Any insight? -cheers

Yikes. Those are expensive arent they?

I clicked on the link expecting to hear what the muffler sounded like. Instead all I heard was annoying music playing over everything including the initial muffler sound at idle... And that took 45 seconds of music and fluff? Listening to the car on the road while the same music was faintly playing I could only hear tire noise and mudflaps?! The last 5 seconds of the video had the car accelerating. -Do you want a sound track playing as you drive around or do you want a good sounding muffler? LOL.

Just being proactive on my part. I've learned to address issues asap because more often than not something else can and does go wrong. Gonna check if its covered and have it replaced. Appreciate the feedback. Now let's talk about handling. Just kidding.

No. I only press the pedal right before pressing the start button. As soon as the car starts the pedal goes back to normal. ?

Brake pedal all of a sudden has been rock hard when starting car with push start? Seems to get hard after a couple hours? It's normal if I restart after going in a store or getting gas? Anyone else noticing a hard pedal? I feel.like it's a sign something is wrong or will get worse? Any insight is appreciated.

So true. Probally why they put trailing arms on the rear of the 2020.

eyelids? make your own>?

It is I. Beamercub. Grr.

Subaru OEM pads are semi-metallic. Not worth what they are asking. I think the OEM rotors are too thin and cheap. Power stop has a great packaged for slotted with Ceramic pads. And add a couple hundred onto your original quotes 350-400 if they are doing the labor.

Lol. Read the owners manual. Novice.

Did front pad slap and did the passenger side first, reusing the hardware I removed them and scrubbed and cleaned them, put them back on... And had a hard time getting the pads into the the housing.. Apparently I clipped the return spring into the outer pad hardware and that made the pad be off kilter.. Which made it difficult to slide the caliper back on having only removed the bottom bolt and flipped it up. After several attempts of trying to push the pistons back in further I didn't pay as much attention to the rubber boot as it was extended out further than the piston itself. Out of frustration I kicked the caliper back on and it slide right over the rotor. Then I moved onto the other side and repeated the process, this time not removing the hardware, just cleaning them in place. I had no problem sliding the caliper over the rotor on the drivers side. Another mistake i made was not opening the bleeder screw thinking that i had enough room in the reservoir, well I didn't and freaked out when i looked further in. It had dripped down on this and that... I cleaned up what i could with brake clean and then used a long curly q straw to suck out some more fluid. My thought process was, it was safe because of the curly straw i could see the fluid coming. *Did that 3x. Road tested the car, broke the pads in.. And i thought everything was good. Attempted to tell if i had a leak on the right side having kicked the caliper back on.. And I thought i did, but it was night time by this point and i looked crazy enough stopping pumping the brakes and backing up and looking on the ground for spots, which i was finding because my a/c was on. ugh. A couple days go by and i feel like i'm getting a little bit of drag. I go over the Subaru pad replacement instructions again, paying attention to the return spring and how it's supposed to be on the outer pad facing the direction of the rotor making contact on the caliper bracket. It wasn't, I had crushed it inbetween the pad and hardware when i kicked the caliper housing on. Took it apart and pulled the return spring back and now it is where it belongs, that is when i noticed the rubber boot being ripped on one of the pistons. It wasn't leaking i pushed it back around the piston and put it back together. Its been about 2 weeks and I haven't lost any fluid but i feel like i'm driving the titanic waiting to hit and iceberg and have a caliper piston start leaking. Having educated myself on caliper rebuilding via YouTube i'm confident I can do it, keeping it on the car. My question now is should I replace the piston itself or just keep it cheap and do the seals on that one affected piston. After all this was just supposed to be a $14 pad slap. Any thoughts, other than i'm out of my mind?

Yes. Besides my front drivers side bearing. My symptoms were that i couldn't control the car at highway speeds. They diagnosed it as a bad rear diff. That took 3 months to complete. I wish they had replaced the bearings at the same time, because i've always since noticed a hum going 70-75... After going thru that ordeal, SOA gave me the gold warranty at no charge. It was either that or $3,500 off buying a new car. i gotta say at times I feel like Mr. Magoo driving down the road and perfectly fine at other times.

You made a post with the only intent to put me down? Unacceptable. As for your remark/question; what evidence do you need or want? Safety isn't an objective subject.

I feel ya. Quality has gone downhill for Subaru. Going to all electric steering has been a nightmare. Besides being dangerous... They know the issues and just look the other way. I feel bad for service departments that have had to feel my wrath. I'm nice at first but I bite hard and enjoy the banter. When I have the time. -Cheers

That being said... A tow truck is a last resort due to a driveability issue. Something out of my control. Wheel bearing, mis-fire 4 separate times, rear differential and not being able to drive safely to the dealer, in addition to a horrible grinding noise as the diff was ripping itself to pieces.. Hence my name, Beamercub... Seriously thinking of going back to BMW.

Seriously? How could you say such a thing? This type of response is what we dont need. The OP knows what he is feeling. Time after time when i would bring up an issue, specifically the steering issue... Its a learning curve or i was told i was doing it wrong. No. It just SUCKS. The car floats worse than a buick, the electric rack is a joke. And if i had known that JATCO was supplying the CVT's i would never bought my car. JATCO is owned by NISSAN. And btw my rear differential was replaced at 22k. My 3.6R has been on a flatbed 8 times in 3 years. CRAP.

has the noise returned?

1. I know my car is a piece of crap because of all the untimely replacements (not repairs) it has required. 2. Pointing out a specific part that has failed on my car among many others would be wheel bearings. Unfortunately there is no preventative maintenance for bearings. Almost like a stroke having the first symptom of a stroke being a stroke. Older cars that used spindle and king-link setups with drum brakes, bearing lubing and replacement was regular maintenance. Being a sealed bearing in modern cars it is expected to exceed 10k before failure. 3. Bad design could be the cause of too much stress on certain parts, I.e ,bearings. Especially in the front end with the lack of lateral support. Bearing replacement is usually done when an audible failure is detected. What about the slightest amount of looseness under load in the front end bearings compounded by the lack of an idler arm setup (replaced) by the all in one steering rack with electric motor? That caused one more f the biggest do not operate recalls by any auto manufacturer when a part wasn't machined correctly?! The numb on center feeling is scary. Constantly having to counter act steering at highway speeds is exhausting and dangerous. And being told by a dealership that it is normal for a car to sway or dart in either direction all the while you have kept your hands at 9 & 3 on the steering wheel elbows locked and no input by you on a straight stretch of highway with no crosswinds?! 4. As for dealerships having the inside scoop on known or common failures. It's their business to know. SOA keeps them informed via TSB's. In addition to the vehicles they have coming back. Those are my facts, and facts that can be verified by recent TSB's and google searches. Not every vehicle has or will have these issues as every part isn't defective. It's the percentage on this level that isn't acceptable. My family has owned every generation of the Legacy going back before it was even badged the Legacy. It was called the Leone or L.. We have also owned a couple XT's back in the 80's , my aunt still has her 95 SVX in her garage, sister is on her 3rd Forester.. Brand new 2019. And can't forget the Outback, my cousin is on 4th. I'm determined to love this car. There isn't another car I would even consider buying. Done with my rant.

You aren't crazy. The car is crap. Cheap parts. Bad design. When it's good, it's good. When it's bad, it's bad. The worst part is the dealerships know everything that is wrong and what will go wrong with your car and they lie to your face like a politician. We didn't notice anything, it's normal. Right?

I do have the zero deductible..

Just noticed the same problem with my car. Go figure. Would it be covered under the gold plus warranty?