Beamercub

Hey there... Yes I went with the OEM Denso starter. I ordered it reman from Rock Auto. Out the door with shipping it cost $168 and that included $51 core! Not bad at all. My local dealership quoted me $ 355 for the starter. I did find it cheaper on Subaru.oempartsonline.com for $238. Both of those are with no core option.

I ended up replacing the starter. Problem solved. I put a couple of the Tom blocks in the engine bay, fingers crossed.

Went to the car wash, turned engine off while cleaning interior.. When attempting to start car got slow crank and then nothing. Tried jump starting, got nothing. Battery was showing 12.30 volts.. Upon inspection when I touched the wire going from the Solenoid to the Starter it crumbled and severed. I was shocked with the condition of the wire! I don't know how the car had been starting before with such a poor connection! I came here looking for insight on how to repair? After researching I have located the part I would need, problem is I can't seem to find it available for a 2015 Legacy 3.6R . Part is the " Brush holder assembly ". It appears to be available for the 4th generation but not the 5th or 6th? Thanks for checking out my post.

Ok. I got a new subaru coil today and went to replace it and I can't get the bolt off?! And the clip that attaches to the coil appears to have melted ! Called subaru and asked if I could order a new clip and repin it.. They replied with NO. That i would need a whole new harness? Does anyone know where I can order a replacement clip that I can repin? I'm really at a loss for getting the darn bolt out.. It just won't move.. Thought about letting it warm up and then trying to get it out? Any help/ suggestions please.. Attached a pic of the melted connector..

I just noticed on RockAuto that they sell just the Boot and spring ? Is that a thing? Curious if anyone else has just replaced the Boot and spring and kept the original coil?

It sounds to me like something is bent somewhere. Especially after being rear ended at some point:/"?

BaH-hum-Bug. 20231225_094848.mp4

Thank you for the insight. I really appreciate it. I guess thats why I haven't heard anything about the timing chains.

hmm. Either you are being direct or sarcastic. Thanks for the info.

Yes, the RPM's are wrong. Too many OOO -0000.

Timing chain... A topic i haven't heard much about? As with lifetime CVT fluid, what about the timing chain? Tensioner? Any insight is appreciated.

Hmmm, got me thinking of other ways to get the temperature? Infrared?

I appreciate the quick response.. The rear pads are easy enough to rewind with a caliper tool.... I can't even wrap my head around being able to do it with the push of a button.. My first project would be the CVT drain and fill and use the diagnostic tool for the CVT re-Learn... And to get the proper temps, etc... I've got CVT on the brain, lol. Brain fart, but there is a 6spd manual of the legacy sold in Canada... Frankenstein 3.6 with a manual transmission and supercharger? Right?

Reaching the point where a good scan tool would take me to the next level.. They are very expensive. I was just curious if there was any type of "hack" in the area? I figured by this point a creative solution via laptop was out there somewhere?

No, it's not normal. My 2015 had the front left wheel bearing replace at only 16k miles and rear diff was replaced at 21k. I'm at 122k miles now and all wheel bearing have been replaced. My passenger rear wheel bearing is needing replacement soon as well. Front shocks have been replaced, passenger front ball joint, all bushings front and rear replaced.. Doing the bearings is easier now with the cartridge design bolt on/off.. Doing pressed in wheel bearings can be a pain and almost impossible without a press. The front end on the 6th gen has always seemed wonky to me, even more so in the 3.6R. I miss having a good old hydraulic steering sytem.

Seriously? Then why do they do it?

Along with the proper temperature, what about the CVT relearn that has to be done with the higher end diagnostic computers?

If OP was able to measure the amount of fluid that came out, can't the OP just add that amount and be done?

Yikes, those RPM's do seem a bit HIGH. I really appreciate the advice! I hadn't thought about a winter blend of fuel being an issue.. It does seem that this issue appears around this time of year... I am religious about getting gas from the same place, I was in a pinch.. Another reason, why I could never have an all electric car.. I would suffer from range anxiety. I just went out and OBD said no codes. I'm going to go back to my trusted gas station ( getting 93 this time ) and I will try a bottle of Techron. Another thing I noticed, I'm getting about 3mpg less with this past fill-up. I'm also going to replace the battery. It has been getting down to 35f at night around here and when I start the car in the morning it's cranking very slow.. Better to be pro-active, eh? I'll circle back in a couple days..

What might you suggest? Reality check? Seriously?

When this happens, in the past the remedy has been coil replacement.. All 3 times coil packs were replaced under warranty. Second time around the spark plugs were replaced. Couple things, with the weather change I have noticed the car starting ( turning over ) very slow - 2 year old battery.. I also recently got gas at a gas station I don't go to - could it be bad gas? I was thinking of pro-actively replacing the battery and I added a bottle of HEET to the tank.. Problem seemed to be less frequent with the addition of HEET. Hooked it up to code reader and no codes are being reported. I remember a tech telling me once that the common issue with the 3.6R is cylinder 5 ( coil ).. Due to it's location and exposure.. I haven't tackled the coils myself to date... Anyone else have a similar issue>?

Question for you: Where are you noticing the burnt oil smell? In the vehicle or outside the vehicle and if outside the vehicle, is the vehicle running while you are smelling the burnt oil? Exhaust smell? I am currently having an issue with my lower oil pan, it is a small leak that i do notice on the ground. I'm not sure where on the lower oil pan it is leaking, I do know it is from corrosion. This is the 3rd oil leak that I have had. Both times prior it was leaking from the crank seal/ cvt housing. It was repaired both times under warranty. As for the lower oil pan, I have purchased the lower oil pan, just gotta actually get under there and replace it.. I'm not sure if the "gasket" could be an issue, because there is no gasket on the lower oil pan, it's a grey apoxy called "Threebond 1217H". Not just ordinary RTV.

Question: Where (exactly) did you notice it? -When you found/ noticed it is it possible it landed in that spot or possible with driving it moved? -Why did you notice it? Just caught ur eye or were you doing any cleaning or maintenance?