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I didn't have time to test drive and it just occurred to Me that the car should have had a crap idle if that line were completely off.

Vacuum line to BOV actuator slid off down under wiring harness. I had a ziptie on it but it wasn,t tight enough.

So I,m driving the OBXT and all is fine , I briskly accel and at around 6 psi of boost the car bucks and the Cobb pulls 11-12 deg. of timing . From then on it just keeps pulling timing whenever I accel. Boost leak? or intake leak?

Do You have Subaru half shafts?

My guess is 1 of 2 things. 1. It's overfilled and will find it's own level if it's not over heating. 2. There is a head gasket leak between 2 cylinders which will slowly presurize the system and push coolant out.

O.K. You may find .5 spacers won't be enough. I went with legacy wagon springs all around and needed 1" spacers. The OB is just heavier back there. I had JDM Bilsteins for a bit and found that unless You are on perfectly smooth roads they are pretty stiff. If You are into that I found it helped to remove everything from the glove box, center console and change pocket. That reduced the slamming noise on harsh bumps. You will still have some camber issues unless You get Megan racing adjustable arms. You can get closer with the Whiteline offset bushings but the JDM springs will still leave neg. camber.

Sounds like warped head/gasket didn't seal to Me. That can show as pressure in the system but not always pushing coolant into the oil.

Wait, You put Outback springs on Legacy struts?

From that pic there is something wrong in the rear. Did You get Legacy rear Upper arms? If not You will never get it right until You do.

Ignore them. Have the prospective buyer call Your mechanic to discuss the car. If He doesn't trust that then next buyer is up.

You just have to dig a little, amazon , e-bay and direct from Subie dealers all have close but varying prices.

Don't get anything but a OEM turbo or a JMP rebuild or the can of worms will be open.

Just did the Max Capacity post # 381 method and it worked good for Me. '08 XT catted DP, Cryotune 118900 miles.

Blackstone at 109xxx miles showed normal wear. Think I'l just keep driving it til something shreds.

O.K. looking for opinions/advice. 2008 XT purchased March 2018. 82xxx miles at that time. Pulled turbo banjo and screen had a few particles but not plugged. Replaced with screen intact. Today with 118XXX miles I pulled turbo banjo and screen is perfectly clean. You can see through it when held to light I mean it is clean. I will remove screen this time. So should I 1. ride it till it grenades. or 2. Get a new or JMP VF46 and a revised tune from Cryo. I have stage 2 cryotune now and very rarely see any fine knock learn.

Rubbing alcohol takes any mistakes off pretty quick. I used a microfibre towel damp with R A and it took seconds to clean off the pillar smear I artfully created.

I used the Australian sticky dash fix and it worked pretty good. I used 2 coats needs 3-4 . I ended up with some sponge marks but I used cheap sponge brushes, good quality ones may help. It does peel off the non-dash parts easily but I suggest using the exacto around air vents etc and peel very slow or it will leave a jagged line.

Glowing exhaust usually means too lean but it the glow tends to be at exhaust manifolds

1162 $ 3 weeks ago from a yard in Hazleton PA

I just got great condition used spindles off ebay and used the rock-auto Moog replacement arms with bushings. Buy ball joints and throw old stuff in recycle bin.

Yep sounds like tie rod is wobble. If You have inside edge tire wear Your camber is off. New tie rods and alignment in Your near future

Get a bluetooth OBD port reader and the BTTSM app. Check all the hoses especially the intake hose, they are usually torn near turbo inlet at that age. The BTTSM will help You find other issues.

If the rest of the engine is stock or even stage 2 the intake is not needed.

Are the plans for this mod still available somewhere, I need to make one.

I have the KYB legacy struts set-up with OEM legacy gt wagon springs and 1 in. spacer in rear. They work good. I had JDM rev Bilsteins before and You needed a mouthguard. Plan on getting bigger front and rear bars and the rear bar re-inforcement brackets. My car now sits at legacy height.