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Infosecdad

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Posts posted by Infosecdad

  1. 1 hour ago, dohturdima said:

    Obviously you see no value in this (in which case, why bother posting at all? Just move on) - Or...- do you have a better solution? $100 is well worth it to me for what this mod accomplishes. I paid more for ODB11 dongle to code this Start-stop off my Audi (which has a way smoother iteration of start-stop than the harsh/jerky Subaru's - still did not want / need it). Obviously, ODB11 can be used for much more, but you still have to pay for the credits to use it - but if it allows me a driving experience that I prefer, will gladly pay for them as well. Sure, I could keep manually turning it off the start-stop every time I start the car, just like I can turn off the DMS - having to toggle through menus. This is a set-and-forget solution that permanently disables the annoying start-stop - and one I can remove easily anytime I wish if I was to sell/trade/service the car and needed it stock. 

    I think you misunderstood him.

    He meant "silly" as in simple device that solves a problem that people are willing to pay for; not "silly" as in you were silly to buy it.

    I'd buy one too if I had a newer model with start/stop, but I also wished that I can come up with the solution that people would be willing to pay for to solve this.

    • Like 2
  2. You may have just a broken spring or unseated from the pivot ball, gonna have to dig into it, sorry.

    I probably have spares if you need something.

     

    Also, if you want to go heavy (which is why I have spares): 

    https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0163a-forged-clutch-fork-wrx-1108

    https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0068a-billet-clutch-fork-pivot-brz-frs-gt86-wrx-366 

  3. I have the right-side roof rail from a '06 legacy wagon. 

    There are three pieces, the front plastic insert, the middle metal rail, and the rear plastic insert.

    The middle and rear parts are good, but the front plastic insert is broken.

    So it depends on what part you need.

    The plastic is getting old and brittle so it's hard to get them fully intact 20 years later.

  4. The STi Genomes clean up really nice with some metal polish.

    IMG_20240309_122623448_HDR_AE.thumb.jpg.38d51daf3ef599e17b81540409e67f50.jpg

     

    Unfortunately, I didn't look at my HKS mid-pipe from Japan close enough before buying it.  It's only for the HKS Super Turbo axleback which I don't have.  The connections are not in the stock locations.

    IMG_20240309_163436753_HDR_AE.thumb.jpg.e8b7c1a39c16bfd233dc93ebe8432241.jpg

    Lesson learned, now I need to decide to either put the mid-pipe for sale or find a set of Super Turbo Mufflers to see what they sound like.

    • Like 3
  5. 48 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

    Well. If you did it, that’s a big vote of confidence, for sure.

    What was the verdict in your case? Did it save a trip to the shop and a skim?

    We only get 0.3mm of total cut before presumably needing thicker head gaskets or heads, so saving that for when it’s actually needed is part of the goal here.

    Yes, they were within spec so I didn't take them to a machine shop.  It's been 18 months now and still going strong.

    • Thanks 1
  6. Pretty sure mileage is in the cluster, not ECU, so that behavior makes sense.

    The replacement ECU needs to either have the eprom chip moved from the old ECU or cloned so that it matches the VIN number internally; have you done that?

    The internal VIN has to match between the ECU, BCM, and cluster.

    • Like 2
  7. Playing around, I put the Legacy STi quad exhaust on my wagon. They fit perfectly with the JDM wagon bumper.

    IMG_20240303_121501755_HDR_AE.thumb.jpg.3f7581e897dac6d37c231e33388d461f.jpg

    IMG_20240303_121509164_HDR_AE.thumb.jpg.ab938aee49dc7ee51e3530b669395d6f.jpg

    On a scale of 1-10 for loud, with stock at 2, they would be 3-3.5 in my opinion.

    At idle, they are deeper, but they get pretty quiet at full throttle.

    Probably a good option for my son's next wagon, but too quiet for me; I much prefer my Titanium Gandors which are still mellow, but more full-bodied under heavy throttle.

    Also built a chassis dolly so that I can get the blue wagon off the quickjacks, but still move it around (as I'm removing ALL the suspension).

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 1
  8. 15 hours ago, seanyb505 said:

    Looking for some interior bits:

    - Airbag module (I'll look for some pn info to verify what and where) Depending on how much you want to faff with the carpet there's a wiring harness under the passenger seat I need as well. 

    - how's your center cubby? If it's not cracked I'd be interested

    - Did you have steering wheel stero controls? 

    - Ebrake boot frame

    None of this is emergency, it could wait a few weeks until you get around to it 

    (Edited airbag instead of abs.)

    Airbag parts/harness - just let me know.

    Center cubby - which one?  in the dash?

    I only have the + - shift controls in the steering wheel

    eBrake boot frame - I don't have this intact

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