Infosecdad

8 hours ago, elomo64 said:

I uh... might have forgotten to use Hexdump to read the files...

Progress, everything reads at ffff

Good catch, onward!

When I got all "f" it was the connection on the clamp, I would try a few ever so slightly different positions, it's not easy sometimes to get it just perfectly aligned to touch all the pins.

Have you tested to see if the clamp is maybe 180 degrees off?  Maybe it just needs to be flipped.

Or you might need to slow it down a little more, things are even faster than when I first did it.

Sorry, hard to troubleshoot from over here...

Have you tried reseating the clamp on the eeprom?  Sometimes that does it.

Which version of python are you trying to use?

On 3/27/2024 at 12:24 PM, Blue Fox said:

I am needing the factory roof rails if you still have the shell (rails that go the length of the roof, not the crossbars)

Also interested in the front strut bar. 

I have the rails, however, the front part of the passenger rail is a little damaged from removal as the plastic around the threaded studs broke from age.  I can send pictures if interested.

Here is a picture of the front strut bar.

11 hours ago, Shawn16 said:

These braces sorry https://avoturbo.com/rear-underbody-support-brace-subaru-liberty-gt-spec-outback

I have the avo sway bar reinforcement and avo rear sway bar

Those bolts are 8.8 approx 4" long and 12mm or .46" in diameter. Thread pitch doesn't really matter, just need to match the nut.

I think the thermostat opens at 180 or 190, the fans should kick on at 205 unless the A/C is on. (If I remember right)

A bad signal from a coolant temp sensor will cause all sorts of issues.

On 3/28/2024 at 10:18 PM, elomo64 said:

I'm having a lot of trouble sourcing an FT232H outside of the US, only could get a CH341A. This is for my '05 LGT. Is it possible to use pin connections that are analogue on this board, or do I absolutely need the FT232H?
 

Looks like the person two posts before you got it working with the CH341A, so it should be feasible.

Pulled the engine and tranny from the blue wagon today.

I had to replace the 8-ton long ram hydraulic for my engine picker, the old one wouldn't hold pressure. I learned that HF now has a Pittsburgh hydraulic/air ram that you can hook up to your air compressor and it's amazing. So much easier on the old back to lift

Running fine cold, but freaking out when warm usually points to a sensor.

The ECU will run open loop largely ignoring most of the sensors until the coolant reaches a certain temp, then will switch to closed loop and pay attention to the sensors.

If one is flaking out, that would help explain the behavior you are seeing.

47 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Got my JDM engine bay covers installed to cover up the power steering and battery bits.  Cleans up the engine bay a bit.  Avo JDM was too rich for shipping, so I did the slow-boat from Japan instead.  Took two months to get here.

And after doing this I noticed the bright blue label on the radiator hose.  Might see how easy that comes off...

After you "fix" the blue label, you'll end up noticing the yellow caps and wander over to Grimmspeed to learn they have black versions... 

44 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

I talk myself into everything. Always.

I'll find some place that will tune for quality side feeds. Deutschwerks make good things, and if a tuner is squirrely about tuning for them, I'll move along. You can run a VF52 on stock injectors, it is only the + JMP Custom part of the equation that makes me think I will need a little headroom on the injectors.

650cc's should be sufficient for me. I do not have a built short block, so I am RPM limited by rods +valvetrain anyway. Please sign me up for them.

I think I mentioned it elsewhere, but there is a place near me that does injectors cleaning, if you suspect that it is required, but if they were running fine for you before the big upgrade, then I imagine they'd be just fine for me as well.

The stock 550 side feeds will max out with the JMP-52, I got to 105% on them a few times. 

I went to 740 side feeds and don't break 80% duty cycle on my tune.

650's should be fine, may not give you everything a JMP-52 can give you, but should be fairly close.

It's part of a trio of systems (Instrument Cluster, BIU, and ECU) that all have to work together for the car to function.

BIU usually is responsible for more of the car systems (outside the engine controls that the ECU manages).

The BIU is usually tucked under the dash and is hidden from general access.

Each of these three systems is coded for the VIN number of the car and the keys are matched.

So if one piece is replaced, they have to be resynced with the other parts and the keys.

I would imagine it's because all 2024 BIUs are slated for new vehicles and they didn't plan on having to replace any brand-new ones already.  So it's going to take a while to get one that wasn't already claimed by a new vehicle on the assembly line.

I think that bar links together the front control arms to try to stiffen the front end a bit.  There are a couple of variants of that idea, I have a different STi bar in that location.

You can probably reuse the bump stops and covers unless they are crumbling/degraded. 

The top hats MIGHT need to be changed, but it would depend on their condition.

I generally like to replace all the parts when I do this, so it's a simple "replace the full assembly" rather than risking something by doing it piecemeal.

41 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

IF you get this deep into the part out, and ONLY IF, coz I suspect it would be annoying.

I am currently still diagnosing why I have a wheel speed sensor fault at my passenger rear wheel. 2 different sensors have not solved the problem, and following the diagnostic tree for the ABS module shows it to be good.

It would be awesome to have a full run of known-good wires from whatever connection backwards is convenient to replace mine with. I am pretty sure they connect up to B98? Or something like this in the passenger footwell. If this is beyone the scope of your planned dissassembly, then no worry. I am sure I can find a donor somewhere. Pretty sure the wiring will be the same in a NA car as ours, and there are lots of those out there.

 

(May also be some other things I aught to throw some money at you for, but I'm still trying to get my engine done and back in the car, which is unsurprisingly more $$$ than I expected.)

So, basically the wiring from the right rear speed sensor to the ECU?

I have the passenger seat out and carpet up because I was pulling wiring related to the SRS system, so this might be feasible.

Marked some sold items, added a few more to the list, more to come yet.

Rota Gravels (Legacy STi style clone) are common at that size.

https://www.fastwrx.com/products/rota-gravel-18x8-48-5x100

Not to enable... 

https://www.quickjack.com/

Rockauto has the two rear KYB outback struts for $63 each.

Ideally I would replace all four if you can, but you should be ok with just the rears for a while.

She's down on the chassis dolly I built, since there is no suspension left.

Just need to pull the engine and tranny and then she's about due to get hauled out, so if you need something let me know.

KYB struts are usually fine for something like this, there aren't too many decent options after 25 years.

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

I tore most of my engine apart.

Therefore; asking the question here:

Anybody have part number(s) for OE side feed injector o-rings? Not the seals between the rail and TGVs, but the actual top and bottom o-rings that go on the injectors themselves.

I looked through the vacation pix, and didn't see anything. Parts guy at my local Subaru dealership also came up with a goose egg.

Failing OE parts, then a trusted supplier, or maybe measurements of the original o-rings before they spent 20 years compressed into a snug fitting holder?

I'm fairly certain this is what I picked up from McMaster-Carr for side feed o-rings a few years ago.

I've been running a Southbend Stage 3 Daily clutch for almost five years now, matched with a Verus Forged fork and pivot ball.

https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/FJK1001-SS-O-4271/

Picked it up slightly used and have put another 45k miles on it so far.