Infosecdad

The closest thing I've found is a decibel chart from HKS for different mufflers compared to their Silent Hi-Power.  The stock Legacy B4 and STi are listed in there, so you should have an idea.

https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product_search/product/1/type/61

11 minutes ago, MrEvanchi said:

(To repeat, I have a Cobb SF with NO airbox.)

Ah, that would help explain the 10-15 degree delta.

I have a Grimmspeed intake into the fender, but also modified it to take the stock intake between the hood and radiator and blocked off all the little areas between the engine and the fender. With the stock TMIC I was within 1-2 degrees of ambient temp when moving and with a Grimmspeed TMIC, I'm within 4-5 degrees.  It'll still heat soak if I sit for a while, but when moving it's great.  It was a little much probably, but I wanted to see how close to ambient I could get.

I would imagine your 10-15 while moving with an open Cobb intake is probably better than you had, but it's still going to suck in hot air from the engine unless it's mostly/fully closed off.

I didn't know there was an "adjustment" that could be made to the pitch stop.  I just have it installed.

I have to say, I have all the hardened mounts and bushings, and with the 5mt it was noisy, but the 6mt split-case (cable) tranny is really quiet... don't have that directly connected shifter to transmit noise.  Yes, it feels different, but everything is a trade-off in one direction or another.

This looks like it in the Subaru Parts diagram: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-4AT-WAGON/_54102_6024414/EXHAUST/B13-440-02.html

Looks like there is an extension cable in the mix as well, hard part is probably trying to find it, which might be why you are looking at what the previous owner did,

Did you get an OEM 02 sensor for your #3 replacement?

Pretty sure I've used the Liqui Moly 2048 (75w90) in my manual transmissions (both 5mt and split 6mt) and rear diff

That generally means the fuel isn't staying in the lines and is draining back toward the pump. If you let it sit a couple of hours, turn the key on, and wait for the full gauge sweep before starting (to give the pump time to refill the lines), does it start any faster?

3 hours ago, Scubaboo said:

Maybe they took a slight hit on their margins rather than lose the sale?  Good you got a better product though it was a long wait

100% this. Someone learned that you were canceling because they couldn't deliver and made an executive decision.

Some of the popping out of gear might be fixed with adjustment of the shifter and cables.  I had that at the very beginning with mine, until I got it aligned correctly.

4 hours ago, Deltaking said:

Multiply that by 14 and thats what I pay ea

Would it be cheaper for one of us to ship it to you?

What causes the 14x difference?

5 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

My understanding is OEM includes the Brand "Subaru" the OE is just the part without the brand. What I have found on most of the vehicle are parts with no branding or part numbers. Only thing thus far were the injectors which were Denso. I got bought it secondhand so I have no clue what should have a brand/part number on it if any of the parts at all...

In my experience that works for some parts that are clearly NGK, Denso, NTN, etc.  For the OCVs I haven't found that to be the case. It's not impossible, but I haven't seen where people found the manufacturer for the Subaru OCVs and bought from them instead.

5 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

Oh yes and I'm replacing my VVT solenoids they advised me that one is sticking so I get a random jerk in traffic and that my be the cause of it. Tried cleaning it which made zero difference.

If you are replacing them, I would recommend OEM Subaru parts only for replacements.  We've seen aftermarket failing upon install.

That should be fine, many of us are running 340LPH pumps like the AEM #50-1215

25 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

Question for the class, what's the easiest way to locate previous volumes of this thread? I'm looking for a post I made in Volume 9. 

I'm afraid it may have been culled in the move, I can't find a reference to it.

Quote

My LV is an improvement but we're maxing out fuel correction

I don't see that.  Maxing out fuel correction is +-15, you are within +-5, which is quite good.

It may take more time/driving for the correction to move further away from 0.

On 4/28/2024 at 12:27 PM, SubOperator said:

The rails that connect the seat assembly to the car body. Mine got rusty after contact with the salt after all these winters. These do not look easy to separate and perhaps proper way is to replace the whole seat base.

Also, I do not know if you want to take the seat apart. If you have buyer for the whole seat I'll look elsewhere. I am not in a hurry, so if you want to consider just selling the seat base let me know.

Just in case it is power seat which I believe all GTs came with anyway.

left (outer) side:

I don't have any one that is looking for a tan drivers seat, so you're safe there. I have a little touch of surface rust on mine, but should be easy to wire brush off. I'll see what it takes to remove the frame rails, you probably don't want the split seat cover that's on it right now.

On 4/28/2024 at 2:07 PM, KZJonny said:

I won't know if mine is good or bad until I start the engine again, but my AC compressor is leaking some green goo, so there is a strong chance the internal seals are going.

Is the compressor on the parts car known to be good? I would assume probably yes, given the climate down your way.... I am seriously debating just doing a delete and gaining back a couple HP, but it gets pretty humid/sticky around here and passengers would complain I am sure.

Yeah, compressor is known good.  Blew cold before I pulled the engine.

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Anyone ever come across a pattern replica for our front brake dust sheilds? I am striking out.

I'm good to pay OE prices when it matters, but seriously? $60 USD for a little slip of stamped metal.... I mean.. C'mon...

 

I suppose I could look at other models that have the same knuckles (which I am likely to replace with some Dorman units, becuase half the price.... Or maybe freshen up some scrapyard parts.) but I guess only GTs would have sheilds large enough to accomodate our relatively large rotors...

Ugh.

Believe it or not, I probably have a set...

50 minutes ago, Cney said:

I have another question, I hope y'all don't mind.

The rear lower arms that I got with all the aluminium arms seem like the same stamped metal ones that are on my var right now. It has different coding stamped on them but they do seem exactly the same. Can anyone confirm they are? Because I'd rather leave the lower arms that are on the car if they are the same to not have to mess the alignment more than necessary on top of doing the extra work.

I think some of those "Sti" versions were more about the bushings than the metal.  I agree with KZJonny, if they look the same, I would just keep what you have depending on the bushings.

54 minutes ago, Cney said:

I'm lucky to work at a University as an instructor and having the mechanical engineering department as neighbors. They told me that although they have a shed of equipment/tools themselves that they rather use the shop at work. Can't blame them.

Nice, I teach Computer Science with some engineering department neighbors.  They are building a baja cart program that I really wish I had the time to help with.

8 hours ago, Cney said:

Anyone have the torque spec on these 6 bolts?

I looked through the Cusco guides to see if I could find an answer for you, half of them didn't have torque specs.  It's into aluminum; so snug, but not too much...  

Yes, for the Legacy GT 05-06 is 4.111 and 07-09 is 3.900 for the rear diff.

You can check on cars101.com or https://rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf

If the WRX diff is different for the axles, get a 05-06 LGT rear diff, it's still 4.111 and matches your axles.

I think it's 2015+ for the WRX

It's essentially a 6mt in a 5mt case, which is why you can use the same clutch, fork, ToB, driveshaft, mounts, etc.

If it's been a year, I'll be surprised if the rear diff doesn't match and the transmission survived this long.

I would guess you'll want/need a new pivot ball and fork from a GT to match up with your Exedy clutch.

1 hour ago, nebula72 said:

 I come from an old school carb V8 world so this stuff it pretty overwhelming..

I can relate, my first car work was mid-80's mustangs. 

But I've been working on Subarus for over 20 years now and have gotten used to them, they are actually really nice to work on compared to a lot of others.

Yeah, I think you have proved that you can't assume anything was done right, and need to verify.

I may have a GT clutch fork if you need one, I should also have a 4.11 rear diff if you end up needing one.

It should be cheaper to get a rear diff if needed, but you may want to consider getting an LGT 5mt that you know the history for vs this NA forester 5mt that is a bit unknown and weaker.  Really depends on what you plan to do with the car and for how long.