Keyan

you can do whatever you want, you're an adult. that being said its always recommended to replace everything together unless it's brand new.

https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2020-12-29/oxygen-supply-shortages-bedevil-hospitals-already-overwhelmed-by-covid-19-patients I'll even quote the article and bold the important part. I recommend reading the entire article, I'm not going to copy the entire text.

LA hospitals are out of oxygen and bed are full. Better hope you don't get into a car accident on the way to work, you'll have no where to go.

no. when reciculated exhaust gas enters the combustion chamber, it's basically an inert gas which can not explode a second time. this causes the cylinder temps to be lower because there's less of a "boom" happening. it doesn't increase gas mileage as much as it reduces emissions. and in this case, more emissions does NOT equal more performance.

call me a weeb but I would love to have a metal turbo inlet because the metal will reflect turbo sounds better and make the turbo spool sound louder and more pronounced.

the way I understand it is that when you install an AP it completely guts the software of the stock ECU and installs its own software, which is how it allows for realtime flash and other custom sensor inputs. its like installing linux on a windows computer. complete wipe; different code. whereas a normal opensource tune just updates the stock subaru tables to the fueling and ignition timing that the tuner wants. If you're tuning with cobb software, you need the ap to "install linux"

I work for toyota so I drained my system fully and run Pink Super Cool Toyota coolant. it's the same as the subaru stuff except a different color.

I wouldn't worry about it tbh, 05 and 06 are basically identical. CEL off and runs normal? Don't worry about it. 05-06 were one breed, 07-09 were another since they used CAN networking.

I had the wax applied from the recall years before i owned the car. 3 days ago I noticed a low brake reservour and a leak in the r/r of the car next to the gas tank. For me, it turns out the spot that rotted away was not where they sprayed. it was about 5 inches up the line. I don't know if subaru would have considered that as under the recall for me so I just fixed it myself for $20 bucks in universal brake lines from auto zone. a 60" line for the pass side and a 30" line for the drivers side. Took me about 2 hours to do and I don't have to argue with SOA for weeks.

if you unplug the flasher switch and it continues to happen, chances are there is an aftermarket alarm wired somewhere under the dash. you're gonna have to dig under there.

ill pm you.

I'll take the net I'd you're willing to shove it into a tiny flat rate box.

sending pm

Located in Albany, NY Invidia catless downpipe for manual trans. Fits LGT, OBXT, WRX, STI $250 picked up Grimmspeed Heat shield, has gold heat tape and also the oem turbo bracket that usually gets trashed when people take off the oem shields. Retails new on GS website for $140+. Will sell for $90 shipped SOLDSOLDSOLD Tomei Style 3 bolt header. Unequal length. No leaks. Was previously tapped on cyl #4 for an EGT probe. I plugged it with a bolt. $250 picked up Stainless Braided Turbo feed line. Replaces the entire stock unit where it attaches to the head. Connects to both the AVCS solenoid and the turbo. $85 shipped (edit: priced too high by accident)

Just emailed Dave for a third e-tune Quality work!

can you provide better pictures of the fogs?

Get a infrared temp gauge on the rad. I bet it's clogged.

i doubt youd have to change much, if anything

Would you be willing to ship the driver side headlight bracket?

Drill it out and retap it

If the diaphragm in your booster has a small tear, you're sucking in un-metered air into the engine and messing up your air fuel ratios. So yeah, it's sort of important.

yeah either the car was slipping on the dyno causing a bad reading or the dyno was calibrated wrong.

if the code says sensor or circuit, and you replace the sensor and it still happens, you're probably looking at a circuit issue.....best you test the wires and maybe check for mouse damage.

S# and keep it in gear longer than you usually would. Take advantage of engine braking.

thats the carrier bearing/bushing. I doubt its serviceable on the OEM driveshaft.