Keyan

there was, but it along with the double din was designed for RHD. the double din fits by chance. the shifter surround is the wrong shape, I believe.

you have major fueling problems. check your fuel pressure. at WOT you should be at 11-12AFR

you can just install coils.

MOTOR Labor time for a headlamp assy is 0.7L for one, 0.8L for both. Chilton does not provide a time.

It won't fit your outback without an aftermarket intercooler that allows for that style compressor housing. The ones in production right now that provide that are the Grimmspeed intercooler and knock off Process West intercoolers (process west doesn't make it anymore but knock offs still do). Also, a front mount would allow for it. a blouch 18g is right on the cusp of needing a ton of parts. If you run a moderate boost level, you can get away with stock injectors and fuel pump and clutch. But if you want to maximize it (and you WILL get the itch) you're going to need bigger injectors (conversion to top feed), stronger clutch, higher duty fuel pump, and praying to your deity of choice that your internals will be sufficient. So the bare minimum would be a new intercooler that's compatible, but you'd best also get a top feed conversion kit with bigger injectors and fuel pump, clutch, and also an electronic boost control solenoid if you haven't already.

This. If you get an electronic boost controller (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) it deletes the pill. Also, I have a vf39 pill sitting here in my toolbox I'll sell to you for 15 bucks if you really want it.

yes you'll notice a difference between a 52 and a 46. The wheels on the 52 are (sparing some small differences) the same size as a vf48, which is the STi turbo. You don't need a larger fuel pump unless you are upgrading your injectors to be larger or if your current fuel pump is dying. You could just get the vf52 if you wanted the cheapest route, but also upgrading the intercooler will give you a bit more peace of mind as well as a bit more of a reliability net when beating on the car.

I noticed the price has jumped up to $300, whats up with that?

issues under hard accel and at cruising highway speeds, to me, sounds like a fuel pump that can't provide enough fuel. check fuel pressure at idle and wot. also, check your intercooler for separation. oily residue and bent back fingers indicate failure.

The whiteline bump steer kit will not correct that caster problem. The caster is what is causing the issue. The caster is defined as the axis upon which the strut rotates on. Whiteline DOES make ANTI-LIFT kits. that will adjust the caster to fix your problem. There are 2 ways to do that. Whiteline does sell caster adjustment kits. Does your coilovers use the OEM tophats? If so you can get ones that replace them that look like this https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/top-hats/whi-kca409-whiteline-com-c-caster-camber-adjusting-strut-mount If your coils include top hats that you need to use to make the coils work, instead of adjusting the angle of the strut up top, you can adjust the position of the control arm with this Anti lift kit https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/caster-adjustment/whi-kca334-whiteline-anti-lift-kit Either of these kits will solve the same issue but in different ways. The goal is to change the angle of the strut forward to back. The tophate kit will swing the top of the strut forward or back. The anti-lift kit will push the lower control arm forward or back.

Bad alignment. if the toe is way out or way in (but equal to keep the steering wheel and the vehicle tracking straight) you'll get crazy bump steer issues

I try not to "flex" because it comes off as elitist often. Especially when the conversation can be educational for all parties involved and for others who search for it. Thanks for the kind words.

that is all sound advise for a car noob. However, I'm ASE L1/L3 certified and know my way around turbos. I don't plan to drop $1100-1500 for an upgraded rebuilt turbo and then bolt it to my 170k mile engine. The engine is used so the turbo will be used. If I was building from scratch it would be a completely different story. I ended up getting a low mileage vf39 for $255. A Process West charge pipe for $83. In total I'm still way under than if I purchased a used vf52. And I should be expecting similar power. I do all the work myself, so there's no labor cost. A retune from my tuner quoted me $150. All together, I'm out the door for a completed car for less than the price of a used vf52, and less than half what just a turbo rebuild would cost me. It's a good deal. And if the vf39 fails? Well, then I'll just bolt another one on.

I have an 05 Outback (non VDC) that I plan to run LGT 215/45R17 tires on. I read to get the speedo accurate, you need to swap over the ABS ECU. Is it possible to detach the ECU from the actuator and swap it without having to bleed all the brakes? Looking for someone who has personal experience with this to answer.

Sorry, I've already talked to jmp and his prices are similar to buying a turbo new from Subaru. My budget is for a cheap smart purchase and this thread about the price difference between a vf39 and a 52. The 39 is in budget. The 52 is barely. If I wanted to spend close to a grand I would buy the like-new Cobb 20g that's on nasioc right now. But the budget isn't allowing it.

werent those xt-16g's originally designed for the 2.0L and not actually much bigger (if at all) over the 39/48/52?

Note for this discussion: i have a Process West intercooler, which allows me to run either our flange turbos or an STi style turbo. It's my understanding that the difference between the vf39 and the vf48 is just the journal bearing had received an upgrade. The vf39 is prone to failure the same way the vf40 is, and the vf48 is the "new" version in the same way we got the vf46. So, performance wise a vf39 == vf48. Now I've also heard that the vf48 is the same as the vf52 except the compressor housing is different to accommodate the bolt-on intercooler. So that means the vf48 == vf52 in regards to performance. By that we can figure that the vf39 == vf52. I could pick up a vf39 for less than $300 bucks. But a vf52 would cost me $500-550. Is there any SOLID reason to spend the extra $250 on a vf52?

this is the exact reason that the bulletproof mod exists.

So with that information, you should be able to measure the distance between the intercooler and your clutch master cap, and that'll tell us how much lower the intercooler sits on my car compared to yours.

I don't have measurements, but i can tell you that when the intercooler is bolted down correctly the bottom edge of it it touches the clutch master cylinder cap.

I'm somewhat interested, I just picked up a no-name PW knock off. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3bVE25ctMvsqxLmR9 (I assume it's a knock off; its used and the black coating has been sanded off) However I have an Outback. The engine, and therefore the intercooler, sits lower. Could this be adjusted for an Outback? Is there any way to remove the laser etching?

It could be the tune. It's not the PCV. In a perfectly operating engine, all the air that's in the engine swirling around is "metered". So, when the pcv operates, it wouldn't cause the engine to run rich or lean. Have you considered the vvt actuators might be acting lazy? They adjust between operating speeds and idle speeds, and if one of them is slow to react, it could cause a momentary disruption of smooth engine performance at idle. Have you datalogged Engine Roughness to see if one of the cylinders (or bank of cylinders) is misfiring?

Oh thank God it's happening

Day one purchase for me. Are we expecting it to be priced similarly to other kits? ($800ish)?

side or top feed shouldn't matter. the ethanol density sensor intercepts the fuel before it makes it to the hard lines on the intake. high cc side feeds are available, however less variety in choice.