Keyan

pictures of the protuning midpipe please?

the solterra is just a rebadged Toyota bZ4X, and toyota is not making a ute, so this wont happen.

assuming you've disconnected it from the brake shoes under the rotor, its most likely rust keeping the o-ring on the cable in place. yank hard and repetitively.

probably 3/8 inner diameter. it wouldnt hurt to get multiple sizes from the store, it'll only be a dollar or two each.

definitely top feed, and i think stock is around 550cc.

if your car is a manual you'll want to get the timing belt shimming tool to set the gap between the crank sprocket and the metal bracket. if your car is a manual it does not have the bracket and the shim tool not needed.

I have not seen one that -also- covers the rear seats when folded down.

the only way to remove a rivet is to drill out the rivet.

theres no way a timing cover leak could cause the engine to leak multiple quarts of oil. it would be everywhere, oil on the road in the driveway, you'd be drawing lines on the ground with an oil drip if it was that bad chances are theres something else going on and the mechanic is blaming the oil leak because "we have to fix this first because its obviously leaking"

i wouldn't worry about it unless after cleaning it you see it a second and third time

incorrect, coolant when boiled is a vapor and heat can not transfer as well when its in vapor form as compared to liquid. boiling coolant is never a normal part of the process. that is why the rad caps apply pressure to the coolant system. higher pressure means a higher boiling point and if you can keep it a liquid then it actually transfers the heat properly.

i dont see what the big deal is that the dealer said the car would need a turbo during a PRE-PURCHASE inspection. the mechanic is covering his ass by telling you its leaking. it may not be a crazy leak but you also didnt pay to have the mechanic take it apart and identify the exact failure component. plus, it is to your benefit to have a mechanic say the car needs a 3400 dollar repair. you get that to negotiate the price lower, where then as an educated car guy can fix it for much cheaper than the mechanic said. sounds win win to me.

id bet theres a mouse in your headliner that ate the power wires that go to the interior light

id guess you either took your measurements wrong, or the valve seats in the head are pushed in causing the valve stems to sit closer to the cams. machine shops can grind the tips of the valves to get you in to spec but i recommend figuring out why the valves are sitting too close first. you don't want to put a band-aid on a broken arm, if you take my meaning.

before doing anything else you should pull codes, i recommend the white connector method which will display not only the engine codes but the abs codes in the combination meter. a simple search should bring up how to do it. the white connectors behind the fuse cover panel by your left knee.

seeing a little bit of feedback knock is fine, it could be something as simple as something rattling around in the engine bay. knock is only super dangerous during heavy throttle. if your ecu doesnt have any Fine Knock Learn and your DAM is still at 1.0 than I wouldn't worry about it. feedback knock is sudden, temporary timing retard due to a random knock event fine knock learn is when the computer sees feedback knock in the same load/rpm range over and over that it will throw in some fine knock learn to "permanently" pull the timing in that range DAM is a full timing pull that starts at 0.75 when you reset the ECU - goes to 1.0 when the ecu deems everything okay - and pulls it back down below 1.0 if it finds something really wrong.

that second picture is exceptional

built in garage door opener button

...because they're either carbureted or use a first generation o2 sensor for air/fuel adjustment. what i said in my post is still factual.

I have a set of used Power Enterprise injectors, 850cc. Part number on the box reads 18-DSH3-850EJ3 SH850FC (GDF EJ25). What is included is in the picture Looking for $250 shipped

ethanol is bad in small engines that can't adjust AFR on the fly such as lawn mowers and weed wackers. if you inject 10ml of gasoline, and you have 10% eth, you're actually injecting 9ml of gas and 1ml of eth. this affects the air fuel mixture which makes small engines (that are usually carburated) not run at their full potential. cars that have AF sensors (all of them, basically) can adjust the fuel injection amount to compensate and keep the 14.7 for optimal performance.

price varies from dealership to dealership because some go above and beyond the recommend servicing items and package in other things that aren't necessarily a bad idea. dealers are franchises and can price it however they want. there is nothing specific to be done at 30k other than oil, rotate, cabin filter and engine filter. brake fluid is also good idea; subaru recommends it replaced every 45k.

That looks amazing.

sounds like a failing torque converter lock up clutch to me. happens to a bunch of toyotas.

If you want to decline the full vehicle look over, save the recall technician some time and inform the service advisor when you drop it off for service that you are declining the multi point inspection.