Keyan

are these off of a normal leg, a GT or an outback? if these are off the car mentioned in your signature I will take them and pay for shipping

fans don't blow at highway speed, if you're overheating while driving you're looking at a bigger problem.

compressor surge is not the same as an engine stall. a stuck closed bov will not cause the engine to stall.

a failed stock bov will not cause a stall it will cause lack of boost.

i put mine on the outside

looking for a chipped tooth or maybe its bent causing it to go out of alignment. you're probably misfiring because at high rpm the crank sensor cant read the teeth properly. either you have mishapen teeth or there's electrical noise due to something else causing poor signal to the ecu at high rpm. maybe a bad ground? you could try running a separate ground from the block to the negative terminal. these are just guesses.

shot in the dark but check the teeth on the crank sensor trigger wheel. do you have access to an oscilloscope to read the crank sensor signal live?

There was a warranty enhancement to have the dashboard replaced from the dealer.

sounds like you have an aftermarket remote starter or alarm in the car that's broken

thats an ap v2 not a v1

Sold

I'm really only looking for mufflers (the deletes I have are way too loud). What did you have in mind?

The springs might be different, usually spring rates are tuned to strut response for the best ride quality. I don't know exact specifics to the height question, the best I could provide you is the paint identification marks on the springs and you could do research (I know the information is out there) to determine spring rate and ride height. The spacers in the rear were used to level the car, it definitely sat lower in the back without the spacers (compared to the front). The picture of my car on the first post is with the spacers installed. If you wanted to take the spacers out in the rear, and then match the fronts to the rears to make the car be lower than I had it in the picture, you'd have to either buy lowering springs for the front, or cut the front springs ever so slightly so it sits lower. (an old school trick)

These are from a LGT wagon, yes. Installing these on an outback does give a lower than US spec in the rear due to the different geometry in the rear of an outback vs a legacy wagon. That's why I installed saggy butt spacers. You have the option to take the spacers out and be lower, if you wanted. If you are running stock rims and stock tires it will clear fine. I am a Master Diagnostic Tech at Toyota and did the alignment myself. I can say with 100000% confidence there is enough room in the adjusters to pull everything into spec. Unknown mileage (I bought them used) but I can guarantee they aren't leaking and other than the surface rust on the bottom they are in amazing condition. the top hat's rubber is still soft and shows no signs of cracking. I don't have a shipping quote ready with me at the moment but I can PM you when I get one if you like.

Also willing to trade for nameless axleback mufflers. Offers entertained.

Albany area.

I have a LGT ABS computer for sale. You can unbolt the black computer from the aluminum block and transfer it over and have a correct speedometer if you're running 215/45 instead of 225/55. $60 shipped -- I used these to lower my Outback, but now I'm re-lifting it so I don't need these any more. I have 2 summer seasons on them. These are from Japan, purchased from HKC Speed here on the forum. Everything you need to get an awesome drop on an Outback. Or, buy them for your LGT and improve it's cornering. Saggy butt spacers are INCLUDED Part numbers stamped on the struts are: Front 20310-AG070 Front 20310-AG060 Rear 20365AG040 (x2) Asking $450 plus shipping. SOLD

the white part of the connector pulls up / comes out, and then youll see little black clips that hold each individual pin the connector that you pull out of the way with a pick to slide the pin out.

I have a coworker with the OEM upgrade "sti" catback on his 17 WRX, and it is bass-y and LOUD. That is why I think the mufflers are at fault.

you may have to swap out those JDM sti mufflers. I am running muffler deletes and a oem midpipe and albeit loud, I don't get resonance.

My OEM mid pipe is rotting and I want to replace it and the brand new price of $680 for just the mid pipe is a little crazy in my opinion. Looking for used.

you're right. in a very small amount, it holds the subframe in place through the sway bar mount, but in actual function the front of the subframe will still be able to shift and pitch, and the bushings in the subframe are solid rubber --- they're more there for vibration dampening than actual function of shifting. I wouldn't consider it a problem by any means.

sent pm.

quotes over the phone are never accurate, the writers are often shooting from the hip because there are so many different models and engines in those models. best to go in person and get a full quote from a mechanic, but keep in mind you might be shelling out for "diagnosis" at that point.

your radiator is partially clogged that is allowing it to cool sufficiently at low loads but at higher loads it is not enough. I had the same problem with a Mercury Sable years ago; It would run fine but overheat on uphills. but i would recommend replacement of just the rad cap to start since it is so cheap.