tysparks81

I had the same experience going to safety the Forester. They wanted $2400 (parts & labour) to replace two rear wheel bearings and two rear control arms (due to a 'little' play in the ball joint) I paid 300 in parts & 300 for labour at a local mom and pop shop. Mind you the play in the ball joint was not enough to cause concern and the rear wheel bearings had zero left to right/up & down play. They were just noisy/rusty from sitting for 6 months.

I would suggest checking Market place for for an ej257 block before buying a new one especially if you are going to be refreshing it anyways. Money saved from buying a new OEM block will allow you to put money towards forged rods and pistons or even new stock rods and pistons. I would also suggest going with ARP headstuds and an OEM headgasket even if staying at conservative levels. Agree with KZJonny about the Fluidampr and turbo choices Upgrade fuel pump is a good option regardless of power level. I also don't see a turbo inlet on your list and you should add it now if you don't already have one.

I washed the Spec B and parked in its storage spot for the rest of winter. I was able to get the Forester up and running this weekend, after a long couple of weeks of trying to get it safetied and road legal. Which included me spending a night out in -10 degree weather to install new fog lights, and replacing a front wheel bearing. Then did a 400km(248mile) round trip in the forester. But gas mileage was terrible so I plan on swapping the rear O2 sensor in hopes of getting slightly better gas mileage(new spark plugs, air filter, maf already). The clock/ estimated fuel consumption was showing numbers all over the place and I had gotten an O2 sensor error last week but it didn't come back so I think the O2 is on its way out.

Sorry to hear about your loss. Glad everyone is safe and unhurt. Sucks to be in a Automatic after driving a manual for so long but you will probably get back into one down the road. Most of us that drive a manual car get out for one reason or another and look for a reason to get back into a manual car at any chance we can get, I feel like you fall into this category.

In stock form you can't compare the 2021 Sti to a legacy gt in stock form. It is not an apples to apples comparison. That being said you can improve on the suspension/handling and power of the Legacy to get it closer to an apples to apples comparison. You can swap a sti 6spd into a legacy so you can still have dccd, or you can use a 6spd from a spec b(does not have dccd). Easiest option is to grab spec b rear axles that will fit the r180 rear diff. Coupled with other suspension/bushing upgrades it will make for a very fun wagon. Getting to 300whp is relatively easy as well.

Yeah man, we could knock out part of that list for sure, but I put the truck on the road this past weekend, so the Legacy is off of the road for the winter, and will be back in april/may. but if you have couple free weekends I'm sure I could tow it out to you and tow it back when we are done.

I also have a long list, some carry overs from last year, as well as some new things that popped up and some things I would like to do that probably won't get addressed for this trip but I will list them in the off chance that I can get to them. I probably won't get started on any of this until next spring/summer unless we get a ridiculously warm day up here. Listed them in the order of what will be addressed first. Fix broken muffler or replace whole catback Replace Turbo to downpipe gasket Install Hella horns Replace front break lines with stainless steel ones then flush and replace break fluid Change front transmission fluid Change rear diff gasket, and fluid change as well as install rear diff bushings Install cusco rear diff brace Install Group N engine mount Fix passenger side blend actuator motor Wire up headlight washer fluid sprayer Wire up my folding mirrors and headlight leveling switch Tint window Paint & install facelift JDM bumper or Install rear defuser on pre facelift bumper Replace windshield & install new rearview mirror (probably won't happen until I decide to repaint car and repair rust)

I mean you could bring 1 or both of the kids down here with you, which should even the odds a little in your favor.

Good Job, car looks great!

What about someone like me that wants to be helpful but also wants to see your wallet burn

So right now I believe there are 7 confirmed in this thread. $2932(includes deposit) divided by 7 = $419 I think we will have more joining which would bring that amount down for us. To just get the deposit together for Feb 1, 2024 it would be $142.50 x 7 = 997.50 I think we should work with those numbers to start.

Swapped on winter tires, but car will likely be parked for most of the winter, since the forester is nearly ready for winter duty.

I mean its open to all so yes you can take the wifes. Alternatively you are welcome to ride shotgun with me.

So for those interested in driving the glen, below is the info I got back about availability and cost for a group of 15 cars. June 10th 5pm June 11th noon or 5pm June 12th noon or 5pm June 13th noon or 5pm For a group of your size it would be $25 per car if bought prior to coming to the track.

Yes I would be fine to organize a trip to Watkins Glen, and yes since they are booked from the 6-9th only option would be to do a group drive between the 10-13 if that is possible.

Depending on the year wheel you get you can use the buttons from a stock wheel. I would suggest going to a wrecking yard or buying a stock wheel to get the steering wheel controls maybe Facebook marketplace from a partout.

If you keep it past spring.......Dooo it! That is a Sat. afternoon swap. Turn it into a go-kart on steroids also pretty sure you can still run cheap fuel in that too.

I could be wrong but those seem like blackout dates where they have events, and some days that still have limited open spots left, not necessarily all available dates to drive the Glen. I only say that as it says it opens in April but none of those days in April are listed. But to be sure I have sent a note to get more details. So the question would be who would be interested in doing that?

Please include Me and the family as a Yes for dates and Locale. Also might be a good idea to see if anyone is wanting to "Drive the Glen" on the 10th or 11th of June. I know I would be interested in that.

If you have steering wheel controls you only need the i85 harness, along with the a maestro or Pac steering wheel control module.

I'm pretty sure it will show temperature relative to what your car currently shows. I have a USDM car up here and my display was in Celsius, added the JDM double din and it is still in Celsius. Didn't have to change any setting it just displayed everything correctly.

I looked into E85 options up here in Ontario and outside of buying drums that worked out to something like $250/tank of gas. Its not the most cost effective solution. If I lived in the US were it was more available at a much better cost I would be all over the flex fuel kit.

As xt2005bonbon mentioned I would start with the easiest things to check spark plugs and look at the coil packs. if you see any rust or separation in the metal plates replace the coil. Also if the connectors for the coil packs are switched the car will run but it will run rough and throw a miss fire code so I might make sense just to double check that the correct plugs are in the correct place.

Interested to see how this is coming along. Curious about how you are handling ecutek & cobb tunes vs OEM basemaps.

Had a similar experience with an O2 sensor that lasted a month and a half. Amazon told me to contact the Manufacturer(Denso) and they said that Amazon was not authorized to sell Denso sensors and that the warranty is only valid for authorized distributers. Be warry of auto parts bought from amazon.