solidxsnake

That's what I used for the oil pressure switch (front of the block adjacent to the power steering pump), also recommended to me by the machine shop that did my shortblock build. No problems so far.

White 4th gen LGT sedan around 08:30 this morning on Chelmsford St in Lowell, crossing Liberty St. Was that you sigma?

With you there. Had a few 4AM nights working on this RAM-tune stuff. Hoping to have a usable frontend for logging/RAM-tuning sometime soon, but knowing how software development tends to go, it will likely will be in a month or two.

Good lord, you work fast!

If boxkitty's still interested in the steering racks I have as well as these seats, maybe we could lump it all on to a pallet and justify the shipping costs that way

Spent a very large chunk of yesterday and today trying to re-learn the open-source tribal knowledge of years past. Made some significant progress on the open-source live-tuning front! Very crude explanation and demo video over at RR forums. Going to be spending quite a bit of time behind the computer programming some of the front-end stuff to make this usable, then we can dig in to some testing! I'm pretty confident it's close to working, but there's definitely some very important testing coming down the line.

No TMIC on the 2.5i I'm fairly certain the my dad's '08 Outback 2.5i also has no plastic undertray (bought new from the dealer).

If you're happy rebuilding, might as well buy my spare '15 STi rack and rebuild that.... Spent many many many hours the past couple of days (I'm up at 3AM on a Tuesday....) working on some of the ROM hacking stuff for live tuning. Still a ways away, but I think I've made some legitimate progress. Deets here: https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=14144&start=30

Where does it sound like it's coming from, specifically? I assume it's dependent on engine speed. Does it sound to you like either of the below? That is the little shield around the flywheel that bolts to the bottom of the block with two 10mm bolts. Mine got bent during motor remove/replace and was hitting the flywheel. Brought my LGT back to my parents place, where it will be garaged for the winter. Going to miss driving it, but glad to have my Accord back in my garage now (though it's not like I'm driving much nowadays anyway).

Drove it to the airfield for our end-of-the-season decomissioning on this abnormally warm Saturday. Boost and smiles and all that jazz Put the stock spec.B wheels with winter tires on when I returned. Spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning up, re-wiring, and fiddling with the in-dash tablet install, which I think is finally about done again.

2005-2007 is all interchangable when it comes to hoods. 08-09 is different.

Yeah, didn't feel like I was cutting any corners going with that vs OEM. It's a rubber boot and a not particularly demanding application for grease, and some basic clamps (I did buy a CV boot clamp wrench). More important to me was making sure to thoroughly clean the cup and all of the rollers.

Yup, I just did this not long ago on my front-left corner (spec.B, so same 6MT + axles as you I believe): https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5987879&postcount=3704 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5988300&postcount=3731 I had no problems doing it, was a quick and easy job. If you caught it quick enough after the boot split, I would highly recommend this since it's cheap, quick, and easy, plus you have no worries about reman axles being unbalanced, etc.

I'm even contemplating if it's viable to pull both seats apart and transplanting the heaters, as blasphemous as that may be

You can probably try searching for the string being read out by CarSys (and/or the one from ECUFlash) in a hex editor to find the address where it's located, and then compare it to value at the same address on a "stock" copy of your CALID's rom from the RR forums repository.

If these are still around come next spring, I may very well be interested. Still on the fence on how much I want to racecar the LGT (or leave it streetable/comfy for spring-autumn with the heated seats)

Thanks to Marvick, I replaced the broken evap solenoid yesterday morning. Drove it out in the summer-esque weather yesterday, then took it for a wash for the first time in a couple years (mostly for the undercarriage, to wash off the salt that was on the autocross track last weekend) This morning, took it to get the underside fluid-film'd. Looks like I really need to look into replacing my brake lines sometime soon

Took it out for my first autocross in over a year (just in time for the last event of the season ), had a great time! My driving sucked but that's to be expected. Had a minor casualty, but nothing serious. Back when doing the first motor swap last year, I ended up breaking one of the hose barbs off of one of the evap solenoids on the intake manifold. Instead of buying a new solenoid, I JB-welded the barb back on and everything seemed to be okay. After my 3rd run yesterday, though, I noticed my STFT pegged at 25%, and poking around under the hood I heard the vacuum leak and pinpointed it to the JB-weld ,which had seemed to become goop. Ran it for the last three runs, since a vacuum leak like that isn't unsafe for the motor. Finally got an evap CEL on the way home.

Rev the motor with the cap off. While idling, you'll feel a steady stream of pulses due to the PCV system. When you increase the engine speed, the pulses should disappear (signaling no blow-by). If you get smoke or more air, then that's a telltale sign of blowby.

I've been happy with the South Bend clutches I've used. Car came with a South Bend Stg1 clutch, and I just installed a Stg2 daily after my engine replacement. I'm coming from the perspective of a spec.B owner with the 6MT, so I'm using whichever clutches are for the STI, which have much higher torque ratings than the equivalent "stage" for the WRX/LGT 5MT. All of the "daily" South Bend clutches use the OEM Exedy disk, but have a custom pressure plate. I've been happy with the pedal effort for all of them, and my Stg1 lasted 60k+ miles with plenty of life left before I replaced it due to a motor replacement.

I answered in the BtSsm thread, but this is a better place for it: If your device is a Samsung device, it may likely also work with the 121 kOhm resistor trick (or maybe another value). Here's my post on the xda-developers forms showing where I found the resistor value for OTG + charge for the the Tab S2 8.0 (built-in support from the factory, likely similar for other Samsung devices): https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=83675315&postcount=15

Guess I get to show how young and not-really-a-car-guy I am '95 Celica ST auto, hand-me-down from my brother. Totaled probably about a year after getting my license, after falling asleep at the wheel under 1mi from home and putting it into a fire hydrant '02 Corolla S 5spd. Totaled once after the front end got clipped by a pickup that was obscured by a big tree after pulling out into the intersection. Fixed, totaled again a couple years later after being backed in to while out in the city, driven home, and sold to insurance eventually '02 Kawasaki EX500 for a little while before the Corolla was backed into. Eventually sold for about what I paid for it about 4k miles and 3 years later. Great while out at school with all the nice roads in western MA, pretty much never ridden after I got out of school and started working. '07 spec.B, daily through my last year at school until it started burning oil and stalling quite often (Hicksta-esque fiasco of the eventual repair detailed well enough in this thread and its previous iterations). With the new shortblock, now a dedicated weekend/fun/eventual project car that doesn't get the attention it deserves. '07 Accord V6-6MT coupe came to the daily rescue 3 years back. Stay stock, stay happy

Hadn't really thought about the details, just the general concept is what I was thinking about. I was entertaining the potentially naiive idea of just drilling a small hole in the plastic and sticking a suitable small-mass sensor (I'd imagine a small thermocouple would probably be fine) in there and sealing it Of course I'm just thinking about it from first-principles, which is silly since I'm sure there's reasonably off-the-shelf solutions for this in the auto world. Edit: On further thought, a quick-and-easy solution would be to stick your sensor in the cyl #4 port that's used for the FPR manifold pressure reference and seal it off. Of course, this assumes you relocate the FPR reference to teeing off of the BPV reference, or otherwise modify that. Also assumes the charge temp is the same at all 4 cylinders (probably a reasonable assumption).

Yeah, might as well start logging everything to get plenty of data to help figure out your VE tables. Added that into my logs recently for if/when I eventually switch over to SD. Though, when I do SD, I think I'm going to want to put a charge air temp sensor in the manifold to (ideally) make any VE tables independent of upstream changes.

OS SD sounds like the way to go. Fairly certain there's a released build of MerpMod/aijiimod for your ECU. Speaking of.... haven't had time to look at live tuning. Maybe this winter