solidxsnake

Autocrossed it last Sunday, not fast but still fun. Went out for my 2nd time on track tonight, this time at Palmer! What a great course! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHd-wCzZXK8]SCCA TNiA Palmer (CCW) 16 June 2022 - YouTube[/ame] Disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm doing, but still had a blast! Though last couple of laps, the car developed a loud clunking through some of the turns. When I got back to paddock, I noticed the same clunking pulling into my spot, and when taking sharp turns (near full-lock). Looks like I may have cooked my axles... Can't complain that they've lasted 172k miles, though.

Took it out for my first-ever track day/night at Thompson Speedway in CT. Running in the novice group and not pushing the car too hard, just getting used to track driving and learning the track. What a blast! That said... definitely need to refresh my brake fluid. I was being very cautious (especially at turn 1 right after the main straight) since it was very clear my pedal was getting a bit soft after the first session. Also... the hose from manifold to MAP sensor popped off the MAP sensor, which was causing some serious power loss on the main straight. This after it popped off the manifold side last week during autoX, which has since been ziptied. Moral of the story (that I still haven't learned, apparently) is ZIPTIE ALL THE THINGS [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BjRU6A3F4]SCCA TNiA Thompson 24 May 2022 - YouTube[/ame]

2nd autox of the season for me yesterday. 7 runs, got my best time (66.4) on the 2nd morning run, then couldn't beat it for the afternoon. Closest I got was a clean 66.5. Turns out, my car stopped boosting to what it's supposed to (10psi instead of ~19psi). Suspect my BPV is starting to leak. Oh well, nothing damaging and I still always have a blast throwing the car around even if I'm slow Edit: turns out the car was boosting just fine. Hose from MAP sensor to manifold popped off the nipple on the manifold. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4X240Owaiw]SCCA NER Solo 2022 #3 - 15 May 2022 - YouTube[/ame]

Same sentiment towards Mike @ Tuning Alliance. Not sure he's still tuning actively anymore, but he was always happy to chat with me and give me advice, even kept my Cobb AP tune unlocked so I could look at it, question it, and modify it myself, etc., with the promise to not share it.

I am adamantly against decals, but if you produced those I would 100% slap it on my LGT. Re: It really is crazy to me how much tuners can get away with because most people have zero idea what's going on with the motor. Especially with the Subaru forum crowd, it seems that tuning is thought to be some esoteric and magical topic, when in reality, it's just another internal combustion engine.

So. I have a bag of a full set of 16 buckets, but no idea what size they are (and I don't have a mic, nor any plans to buy one just for this). Should I just ship these to you at some point, awfulwaffle?

Reddish-bearded dude driving a black debadged 05-07 LGT on Rt3/Somerset Pkwy on Saturday night around 6PM or so. I was in my spec.B when I noticed the scoop in the rearview. You did a pull in the far-left lane, then eventually ended up taking the same exit as me. I passed by and threw out some deuces while you were waiting at the left-turn red light.

Drove it to get an alignment, finally. Thankfully the front toe just barely managed to align as desired without needing to do any more work. Was worried that since I installed the '19 STi rack without modifying my Whiteline outer tie rods, I wouldn't have enough range to get the toe where I wanted it, but it all worked out. Wideband is still reading leaner than I think it actually is under boost. Thought I had pinpointed the issue down to an exhaust leak between my old ELH and up-pipe, but I'm certain there's no leak now with my KBHH + V-band up-pipe, so I'm very confused. Also still smelling fuel, as did my alignment tech, stronger from the back of the car. He suspects a busted evap line or similar. Anyone have any ideas on a lean-reading wideband? Reads fine at low load/MAF, but starts diverging from the stock front O2 sensor somewhere around 0.9 lambda (about 13.2:1 AFR). I'm certain the Spartan 2 controller is wired fine and it's start-up routine indicates that there's no appreciable offset or discrepancy in the controller/ECU interface. Last time I checked the sensor itself by shooting gas from a lighter into the sensor, it would read full-rich as expected, so I ruled out that the sensor was bad. Now I'm thoroughly stumped Looking forward to my first AutoX this season, this Saturday!

Yeesh, that's a nasty collision. Glad she's okay! Picked up the LGT last week from its winter storage at my parents' place. Installed my KBHH and new coilovers yesterday. Discovered the Cobb fuel-pressure sensor/adapter I installed last season is leaking, so need to get that fixed. I suspect I didn't let the thread sealant cure long enough before installing it and getting fuel in the system. Then it's just tires and alignment before I'm ready for the AutoX season. Hoping to do some "more seat time" activities this season (SCCA Track Nights, time trials, other HPDEs, etc.) too. Will be listing my old Tomei ELH and KW v2 coilovers in the classifieds soon for cheap.

Ah right... I forgot that they are DBW, but just handle it differently (directly control throttle position instead of using the "Requested Torque" intermediary).

This is true for DBW ('07+ Legacy), but not sure about the '05-'06 models.

I have an '05 manifold sitting in my garage (link below). If I can find the gasket in question and it's in decent shape I'll send it off your way. Planning on junking this manifold soon so I'll take a look for it before that happens. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ma-perrin-turbo-inlet-lgt-intake-manifold-throttle-body-oem-279563.html?t=279563

I'd suspect it's more that you're getting a better seal of the glass along the weather stripping on the top side of the door frame when it's wet. I notice the same sort of thing. I think it's likely a combination of window misalignment and worn weather sealing.

Try pushing outwards on the window (to push it away from the weather sealing) and see if it gets worse. On my LGT, often I get a high-pitched whistling from the passenger side while driving on the highway. Sometimes I can get it to go away if I lower and raise the passenger window back up.

Top hats? Sway-bar endlinks? That's about all that's left I could think of assuming your LCA bushings all look fine. I've had clunking in my front-end for a while now that I thought was endlinks, but didn't go away even after I replaced them. I found the top nut holding my coilovers to the top-hat were loose, and re-snugging them helped lessen the noise, but still there. I have new coilovers coming so hoping it goes away after they're replaced since I can't think of anything else that could cause it at this point.

I just bought a V-band no EWG KBHH with Swaintech coating a month or so ago... it's right here on their website: https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/el-4-1-performance-holy-header-up-pipe.html.html No flex joint on their UP. Edit: derp, didn't realize you were talking about UP with an EWG. Reading comprehension.... clearly I lack it

Thanks for the link, looks like they just have the connector, not the entire cable (that converts from coax to the grey plug). My LGT never came with it. Previous owner disclosed that the radio reception was always awful, but didn't know why. I suspect one of the other 5 previous owners removed and replaced the stock head unit incompletely, hence the missing cable.

Why would you regret selling an Alfa?

Would you be willing to part with the antenna cable (the one with the 2-pin grey connector) on it separately?

Yup, KBHH with V-band UP and Swaintech coating! Will be looking to offload the fiberglass-insulated Tomei ELH currently on the LGT when I swap these come springtime. Last bit of winter parts hoarding (new coilovers) will probably be here in the next month as well.

The fix for my leaky header-to-uppipe gasket was delivered today

Everything should be wired in parallel, NOT in series. Simply put, everything that is supposed to be wired to ACC should be receiving the full voltage from the battery, which means a parallel connection is what you want. That's what it looked like your harness did, so I don't see an issue there. Wire gauge is likely not an issue here, can't imagine you're pulling enough current for it to be a problem. Have you confirmed you're getting power everywhere you're supposed to? Get a volt-meter and probe any pins at all the connectors that should be at battery voltage and confirm that. Also make sure your wiring is all correct... that's honestly the only thing I can think of.

Are you sure your wiring is okay, and are you testing with the engine running? I suspect the head unit + the faceplate are pulling enough current that a shoddy enough connection is dropping the voltage enough for the head unit to complain. The splicing that you did shouldn't be an issue (assuming the connections are all of good quality and correctly wired).

For a manual, the e-brake needs to be active (BRAKE light in dash illuminated) for the memory seat to move. It will not move otherwise.

Single AVCS will typically peak in cruising ranges (low/medium load and RPM). Should be zero at idle/no-load, and will taper down from its peak value towards redline and higher load. The idea is that you want more intake cam advance in the cruising range to increase volumetric efficiency by introducing some scavenging. At higher RPM/load, you want to minimize intake/exhaust valve overlap to avoid losing uncombusted intake charge out the exhaust. Stock AVCS tunes for later MY cars is in the ~30° range in the cruising area, from my memory.