solidxsnake

DAM, FLKC and FBKC all react to the same thing: the knock sensor. Depending on load/RPM, the car will either do nothing, or react with one of the three types of knock correction if the knock sensor is triggered. If the DAM changes at all (up or down), the ENTIRE FLKC table will be reset to 0 and start learning again. If it learns enough positive correction, the DAM will move up again and the table reset again, etc. None of the knock correction parameters (DAM, FLKC, FBKC) respond to misfire (i.e. "roughness") events. If you log Knock Sum along with your three knock parameters, you'll see that the only time any of them change is when the knock sum increments.

Work's been treating me well this year, so I'm putting some of my bonus into shiny goodies for my LGT which I barely drive Just put in an order for new coilovers from RedShift Motorsports (recommended by a local national-champion level autocrosser). Didn't see many other enticing options to upgrade my aging KW Variant2 coils besides taking a chance and getting a set of the Bilstein coilovers shipped from JapanParts. So I guess I can be the guinea pig for these coils on the LGT. Link here: https://store.redshiftmotorsports.com/default.asp Next on the winter parts hoarding list is a Swaintech coated KBHH. But I'm in no rush

The stock ECU has failsafe maps that are triggered under certain conditions (certain codes, I guess the test mode connector like you suggest), so you could use the meth controller failsafe to trigger the failsafe code. Then you just tune the failsafe maps to your non-meth injection maps, and use the regular maps as the meth injection maps. With Cobb FlexFuel kit, it's similar, except you don't need to rely on the failsafe maps, and can just use the multiple maps the kit provides to be a meth/non-meth (instead of E85/93 for example). The TGV sensor input is used to control the blending between the maps.

The 2015+ rack fits fine on a spec.B (same as the regular LGT). The part number for the new rack was superceded in 2019, but I think they're effectively the same. Not sure about the 2020. I've fit both 34110VA120 and 34110VA121 on my '07 spec.B. On topic: LGT has been driven and parked in my parents' garage where it will spend the winter. Time to parts hoard to give it some springtime gifts when it comes out of hibernation. I'm thinking a KBHH with EGT bung + sensor and new coilovers. Because why not?

Last autox of the season yesterday, co-drove a friend's (also an LGT wagon owner and forum member from a long while back) NB Miata since I hadn't figured out why my WBO2 was reading lean (~0.85 lambda) under boost and didn't want to risk anything. After getting home, I swapped the winters on to the LGT and tried to diagnose the "lean" WBO2 reading further. Turns out, the gasket between the Tomei ELH and the 3-bolt up-pipe is blown, so I'm guessing the false lean reading is due to that leak. The "solution" is of course to buy a new gaskets, then spend the ridiculous effort (or I suppose just buy a flex-head 14mm box wrench ) to remove the 3-bolt up-pipe and replace the gaskets. But I'm sort of feeling like if I'm going to go through that much effort, I might as well just buy a set of Swaintech coated KBHH and replace the Tomei setup with that... Car's going to my parents' garage for the winter in a week or two anyway so...

I forget, does this plate fit with the OEM wheel well covers? Or do modifications need to be made? Also, does the circular hole provide access to the oil filter? Answered my own questions..... gonna call dibs on this. YGPM

Sorry, yeah, I did. I have a GrimmSpeed TMIC, so not relevant for me. Not losing any appreciable oil (and it doesn't smell like burning oil either... very familiar with that smell ). Did an oil change on it last weekend, but haven't touched it since. Perhaps I'll take it up to Mt. Washington this weekend and maybe detour through the Kancamagus on my way there/back

That hose (+ the metal coupler) comes with the GrimmSpeed TMIC. Did an oil change yesterday (after buying the only Mazda N3R1-14-302 filter available within the nearest two Mazda dealers). Wideband is still reading lean in boost after "cleaning" it with MAF sensor cleaner. Maybe I'll try a second cleaning with a torch before buying a new Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. I just truly can't believe it's running as lean as the WBO2 indicates since the car feels normal and there's no recorded knock under load. Burning smell is still there, of course. It's certainly not RH side CV boot (incidentally just regreased and replaced the LH one last September). I wonder if it's the Fluid Film I got the underside coated with before last winter that I'm smelling?

It's just LineageOS 17: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/gts28vewifi

Sounds like a honeypot for an LGT junkie to get jumped

Wideband O2 still reading dangerously lean under boost. Car pulling as hard and smoothly as ever despite the WBO2 reading with no unexpected knock. Must be a borked sensor or exhaust leak Also still have a persistent smell of something burning when the car's warm and comes to a stop with HVAC set to vent. Doesn't smell like (engine) oil, coolant, or PS fluid/ATF. Also doesn't smell like the burning plastic from the wheel well plastics (from the short period of time when the pop-its broke and it was rubbing against the tire). Nothing obvious sniffing around under the hood after parking. So at a loss for what it could be, since all the fluids aren't depleting and there's no smoke. Maybe something residual in the cabin filter? Or is it just a lingering "new motor smell?"

Last weekend, noticed the car was running lean under boost (major stumbling, knock correction, measuring around ~1.0 lambda during WOT pulls ). Think I solved that and tracked down the issue to improperly installed fuel pump. Pulled it and swapped from the 2 o-ring approach that's all over forums to just using the OEM o-ring and plastic retainer piece. Car is running as it did before now, however, my WBO2 is still reading quite lean under WOT. Stock sensor is pegging down where it usually does and the car doesn't feel like it's running as lean as the WBO2 indicates. Also not getting any knock correction, so I think it's a false reading. Haven't pinned down the issue yet, I suspect an exhaust leak, perhaps at the slip joint of my Tomei ELH. Maybe it's time to upgrade to the Killer B headers....

If anyone's interested... I started a Python/wxPython-based "replacement" for RomRaider last winter. Once the spring came around and the pandemic has started to subside, the project's fallen to the backburner. I got a first-pass at live tuning working with a newer version of MerpMod, but still haven't had time to give it a full real test. I left-off after starting the monumental task of creating a unified ECU/Logger definition format (the RomRaider "everything-in-one-XML-file" and lack of multiple inheritance makes definition management an absolute nightmare). I have an idea in my head of how I want it to work, but no time to work through it all and debug... most of the work is on the UI side anyhow. The repository is here: https://github.com/Shamtam/PyRRhic Called PyRRhic because everything related to open source tuning, even if it works, is a thankless task and honestly.. if you don't enjoy the tinkering, it is almost objectively not worth it. I have immense amounts of respect for the OG opensource guys. Major goals with this project is to have a modern, cross-platform UI that has a reasonable and modular codebase. Also... not Java. Ugh. For what it's worth, here's my updates to MerpMod. My short-term goals of setting up continuous integration to build patches on commits to the repository are mostly done. Eventual goals are to completely remove Merp's original dependence on SharpTune to generate definitions and patch ROMs.. could be easily set up to generate standalone definitions and auto-built patches with no manual effort (this is why I want to make a sensible unified definition format): https://github.com/Shamtam/MerpMod And for anyone tinkering on their own... I also wrote the only documented and complete Python-based J2534 library. Haven't written in Linux support yet, but that should not be very difficult: https://github.com/Shamtam/PyJ2534

I have one sitting in my garage that needs a rebuild... Got it from a junkyard, installed it, and a couple days later found most of the ATF fluid pooled in the RH side boot. Found another rack and pulled this one, been sitting since with no local bites or interest... I could be convinced to meet halfway to NY state On topic: drove it around yesterday and today. Last week, I bought another JDM navi bezel (the more square opening one for the Panasonic nav system) which I plan on using to finally get a clean install of my Tab S2 (an upgrade from the old Nexus 7 I used to use for a dash tablet). Also ordered a set of Whiteline front and rear swaybar endlinks (thanks for the offer seanyb505, but I want the adjustability!)

Is the Redline shift boot good for the 6MT? I'd be interested in both, if so.

Took it out to fill the tank and for a 30-45min spin last night. Shut the car off once or twice at red lights on the drive to see if the fuel temp CEL would go away, and finally after getting home and parking in the garage, the CEL went away (yay, didn't have to reset the ECU and lose all the current fuel trims!). Buttoned up the rear seat and car's ready to drive! Have a nasty squeak coming from the rear, and the same clunk from the front end. Probably a combination of endlinks and sway bar bushings, though the bushings aren't very old. I just turn the music up or hit the throttle harder for peace of mind

Thanks to covertrussian: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080

If SOA drops the ball and the 2010 OB can use the same fix as the 05-09 LGT, then I have a full set of everything needed to fix the rear lines (Nicopp tubing, fittings, flare tool, etc.) if it's of any use. Let me know, I'd be happy to send it off your way for a decent discount. Didn't end up using it since the lines on my LGT are not nearly as awful as I thought they were, and I'm lazy so I decided against tearing them out and replacing them.

Installed an AEM320 fuel pump on Thursday night... what a massive PITA. Everything was pretty straightforward besides removing/reinstalling the metal retaining ring around the fuel pump assembly. Haven't taken the car out for a spin yet (or even started it, for that matter...), but I'm getting a P0183 code after re-assembly. Hoping it goes away after some driving...

Read, read, read: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my05-09-legacy-gt-common-issues-230230.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4840856&postcount=122 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4729900&postcount=84 Links found at the end of this post: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4690786&postcount=1

Lifted the rear end yesterday, prepping to replace the rear brake line(s) with nicopp... closer inspection shows the only rust is on the fittings going into the splitter block, but the lines themselves are completely rust-free. Decided against screwing with the lines (mostly because I'm lazy), and now I'm comfortable driving the car again. So I drove it around yesterday and today. Had the trunk full of tools today, so didn't corner too hard at the on-ramps, but the merging never ceases to amuse in this car Now just need to replace the nearly spent RE-71Rs sometime soon. Maybe have one more autocross left in these before they need to get replaced. Still working on the never-ending OS tuning software in the very scarce bursts of free time I find myself having.

Speaking of brake line rust... I bought NiCopp lines, connectors, tools, etc. to replace the lines on my LGT... it's been sitting in my garage and I haven't had time to tackle the job yet. Also have an AEM320 pump sitting in there as well, to be done (hopefully) next time I'm running low on gas. Which may be a while...

So.... any chance you'll ever fill my order?

Getting that plate off almost always requires an impact screwdriver (the kind you set in the screw head and hit with a hammer). The purpose is to get access inside the block to remove the circlips and punch out the wrist pins holding the pistons to the rods. Agree with the rest, looks like the rear main seal leaking, not the access plate. Doubt it's the oil pan, personally.

bump!