solidxsnake

Budgetary concerns and a well-running, modded turbo Subaru does not mix. If you're changing things on your car that require a tune (downpipe, intake, turbo, fueling, etc.) and skimping out on a tune, then you're just setting your wallet up for sad days Just the Accessport doesn't do anything, it's the tune you flash that matters. Like I mentioned, Cobb has off-the-shelf tunes for your car for the stock intake (Stage 2) or their own intake (Stage 2 + SF). Any other intake will require a tune, which you can do with the Accessport in the future when you have the money for the intake + tune.

Any intake works with a tune. Off the shelf, Cobb only supplies maps for the stock intake and the SF intake.

Define "like that?" Unless the motor's somewhere in the compression or power stroke, then it's possible the valve would be open like that. Real easy to check since you have the belt/covers still on: just turn the crank (I typically just use the crank bolt with the 22mm socket) until it gets easy to turn, at which point all of the valves should be closed.

Finally got it inspected yesterday (1 year and 5 months since expiry ), and did some driving and logging. Also got most of my new in-dash tablet setup for it, though I've still got some bugs to work out with the start/stop scripts, and it still doesn't want to seem to reliably log via BtSsm, but on quick check my laptop shows no issues or intermittent connections, etc. Today, I tightened the pins on the OBD port, but doesn't seem like that did anything for the tablet logging, although it certainly makes the OpenPort sit much tighter into the socket. Oh, the fun part about today. I copied my old boost target and wastegate maps over to my current tune (which was running at wastegate pressure since the new motor). It's amazing how quickly an extra 8psi of boost really jogs one's memory of why these cars are just so dang lovable

bump!

bump, price drop!

Yep, you're correct. Tested it with a friend pressing the accelerator and the puffs completely vanish once the engine is rev'd. So happy about that. Haven't checked my oil since my drives this weekend, but am still smelling something burning in the engine bay. Guess I'll continue keeping an eye out for leaks, even though I'm completely stumped on where they could be coming from.

Took it for a spin today (and will again tomorrow). Think I found out the cause for my frequent but not super-concerning knock at medium load/throttle: car is running in closed loop and pulling a bunch of fuel (about 10%). Wideband shows 0.2-0.3 lambda leaner than target, but the stock O2 sensor matches it. When it switches between OL/CL, I think the huge jump in fueling is causing the knock. I think my plan is to play with the CL/OL transition point so it switches into OL earlier. On another, more depressing note, trying to figure out the oil consumption. Motor has about 1400mi on it now. Haven't driven it much since the 300mi trip after I called the break-in done where it burned a quart, so the oil is still showing full. Pulled the PCV yesterday and gave it a good cleaning with some brake cleaner. It's still rattling, but it had a bunch of oil residue on the crankcase breather hose. Looking through my records, it looks like I never replaced it, just cleaned it about 18k miles ago. Will likely replace it. More concerning, however, is the constant puffs of air and minor wisps of smoke from the oil filler neck while the car is idling. I haven't tested what happens when rev'ing the motor. I'm really hoping I didn't screw up the break-in so bad that the rings didn't seat.

The OEM Denso one is the one to get. Denso 234-9120.

Yeah, I suppose I should have mentioned that this is the best way to check for HG failure between cylinder/coolant jacket if you don't have any other indications (i.e. an external leak). Figured if you see coolant/oil leaking from the head/block seam, then it should be pretty obvious it's a head gasket failure.

Best way with confidence is to use a block tester kit. Autozone should have them for rent, I believe. Big syringe that you put a (blue) fluid in, then put over the mouth of your turbo coolant reservoir while the motor is running (obviously from a cold start before the coolant system builds pressure), and pump the syringe to pull in the vapors from the coolant loop. If the fluid remains the same color, your HGs aren't leaking, at least between the cylinder and the coolant jackets. If the fluid turns yellow, then you have a leaky HG. It's also possible the HG leak is between an oil passage and the cylinder. The telltale here is seeing oil in coolant, leading to milky fluid in the radiator/turbo reservoir. Edit: see here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5889831&postcount=3458

The red fluid is probably power steering (ATF). Common to leak out of the PS pump due to a bad o-ring; a cheap $ and 10min replacement. My OEM radiator had a couple hairline cracks in the plastic that would only really cause an issue once the system was hot and pressurized. Something else to look out for if you're sure it's not an obvious hose leak or head gaskets.

The "outer race" of the original bushing does need to come out. So you could do it with the burn out + saw-off method. You'll still want at least a bench vice to press in the new WL bushings. After work today I plan to plug the hole in RE-71 with the hole in it, and replace the two small elbow lines from the water pump. Maybe take it out for a spin since it's been a while!

bump!

bump!

Turbulence/flow changes compared to the stock intake can lead to different MAF scalings, but mostly I agree with you that it certainly does make sense the SF intake has a larger diameter housing to require (from my memory) about a 15% increase in MAF scaling compared to stock. I doubt turbulence would cause a 15% error across the board. The numbers come out reasonably close too (2.75" diameter is about a 20% increase in area from a 2.5" diameter).

Any '07-09 LGT steering wheel will fit. The radio buttons and airbag will swap over. I have the DAMD D-shaped wheel, would highly recommend it. For the shifter, any 6MT knob should work. I use the STI weighted aluminum knob (this one). I have an OEM spec.B knob sitting at my parents' place that I'd be happy to part with for cheap. PM me if interested.

It really is a never-ending cycle with these cars, isn't it? To be fair, this wasn't a fault of the LGT, but still just annoying. Drove it to visit my parents (yes, small coolant leak and all), all fine. As I left, turned off of their street and felt the car pulling heavily to the left. Went another couple 100ft before I pulled over to find my FL tire flat. Turned around and parked it at my parents', borrowed my dad's Outback and did a round trip to pick up my jack, impact and torque wrench, and switched my spare set of spec.B wheels with winters on to the car in the dark. Funnily enough, once I made it back to my parents' place, there was a car pulled over exactly where I had pulled over that was just finishing up with a tire change. I offered to help but they'd already finished up. I suspect we both ran over the same thing. What luck.

Yesterday, took it for its first drive since I passed the 1000mi mark. Drove it up to Franconia Airport and back for a couple glider flights at a new airport and some pretty scenery: http://i.imgur.com/UIoH4l8l.jpg I'm for certain losing oil somehow. Smelling a little burning in the cabin, little bits of smoke under the hood occasionally, and looks like I lost almost a quart since the oil change (under 300mi). Pulled the undertray, back of the airbox, intercooler, etc., and did some digging. Saw a little bit of oil pooling near one of the breathers hooking up to the RH side valve cover, but otherwise no obvious leaks. All of the post-inlet silicone look like they're "sweating" oil, so I'm hoping this isn't all just excessive blow-by. No signs of oil leaks anywhere on the oil pan, turbo oil return, turbo oil feed, or LH side breathers. Also no oil pooling in the IC or the related hoses. Would be really upsetting if the break-in procedure given to me by the machine shop that I followed to a tee didn't seat the rings well (and in all honesty... next motor if/when I ever do that will be getting a "hard" break-in). http://i.imgur.com/bJFllSNl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kxM6nXOl.jpg Also found that one of the small elbow hoses out of the water pump has a small crack in it, and this is certainly leaking (as evidenced by the caked on coolant stains on the shielding on my headers). New hoses on order. Not looking forward to the ensuing mess guaranteed to occur while replacing these.

I legitimately typed ESP in Sterling in my last reply before removing it and making it a short reply. The owner Dave also has an 05-09 LGT wagon/OBXT from my memory, and overall they're all great guys. I had my LGT dyno tuned at that shop by Mike @ TA as well several years back. So yeah, another +1 for ESP. Motive was also a great Subie shop, but their owner has moved to FL. I'm sure they still do good work, but it's probably not the same as it once was (sigmafour could comment more).

Quite a few decent shops in the MA/CT/NJ area.

Agree. I use a Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 8" (SM-T713) running LineageOS 16 or 17 in my Accord and just bought one for my LGT now that it's back up and running. Far superior to the Nexus 7. Only issue is the sizing of the screen. It would benefit from the `wm overscan` technique of adjusting the screen size, but unfortunately for later versions of Android (6+), the `wm overscan` method of shrinking the screen real estate causes double-padding for many apps, and `wm size` does not allow for off-center re-sizing (so you lose a LOT more screen real estate than you'd want). For the tablet in my Accord, this is no big deal, but in the LGT, the resizing causes serious real estate loss. Haven't figured out a good solution for this yet.

Sounds like knock correction (the motor's pulling timing due to perceived knock). Hard to diagnose unless you log the car. What octane fuel are you using? Could also be false knock due to loose/rattling metal in the engine bay (heat shields, loose bolts/nuts, etc.).

Ran into that thread last night: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/separating-lca-ball-joint-tie-rod-knuckle-medieval-style-113347.html On-topic: Finished re-booting the CV (bought the Beck-Arnley 103-2976 kit) and got the LGT back on the ground. Probably won't be driven at all until next week after I'm back from a short vacation over the long weekend. Started looking back at the live-tuning stuff a couple nights ago. Re-built Aijiimod for my ECU, but still haven't updated the maps or flashed it to the car yet. Trying to wrap my head around some of the coding side of things to figure out how the best way to implement the live-tuning portion.