Sarang

I have, thanks. Right now I'm very happy with my power level, the only thing I'm dreaming of improving is spool and response. To me that means either e85 or meth, neither of which is likely to happen this year, if at all. The only e85 station near me is by my work, and I would be kind of uneasy being so far from a station on days off. On the other hand, meth injection is more complicated and expensive and requires more monitoring and fail safes. This might be all I do for this car... of course I thought that back when I got the downpipe...

Thanks guys. With your information and a bunch of internet research I have learned a lot today. It looks like my AFRs are good. I'm going to email my tuner about the weird feel at boost, the laggy feel, and the rough transitions. I think I will also take a log of those things happening and ask him to take a look. I'll also ask about the steady WGDC because I am curious, and because I'm interested in a broader usable power band. I'll also ask what he thinks is my limiting factor right now. I bet it's my ACN91 and stock turbo, but I'm interested in his thoughts.

Hey Guys. My e-tuner just sent me an email saying that my recent logs looked good and that if I'm satisfied we're all done. I have some concerns and I was hoping y'all would reassure me that I'm not crazy here... or if I am, let me know. Here's what's going on: My idle is kind of rough and rather stinky. I have gotten comments from strangers and coworkers that my car is running rich. The car does not take the clutch as well. I haven't stalled it yet, but there are a lot more close calls. The car is laggy. Full boost is around 3k rpm, where it used to be ~2600. The car feels kind of like it's bogging at full boost. The car only hits full boost (18psi) for a brief window, ~700rpm. The AFR at full boost is ~11, shouldn't it be ~12, or am I misinformed? The WGDC is flat, no increase in lower rpms or higher. (that would explain my peaky boost?) The transition from WOT to partial throttle, or vice versa is sharp and jerky. Less important note: I thought with the FMIC I could run a little more boost. I know PSI isn't everything, but it's weird to me that I'm hitting lower with more intercooling. So am I crazy here? Do I have incorrect expectations? What are your thoughts? I'm not mentioning which e-tuner because I wouldn't want to drag anyone thru the mud if I'm just being a total N00b. Thanks.

Since the stickies are locked, would one of the mods please add this info to the "Parts from other Models/Years" thread? Mr Gasket 738G Water Outlet Gasket used as the gasket between the turbo compressor outlet and an aftermarket charge pipe

let us know what that number is please sir (for the buy back) Some things are worth so much more than the dollars involved.

Oh man those pictures are hard to look at... Glad everyone's OK! I wish you luck with the insurance company.

You removed the black center piece from the lower grill? Was this recent? I'm trying to decide if I like it. It might look really good plastidipped black like the chrome from your upper grill.

What trouble code(s) are you getting? If you unplug the battery to reset the ECU, how quickly does the code come back? I'm not sure how a non-reactive cat would affect mpg at all, but I wonder if a bad O2 sensor would. Catalytic converters need a rather narrow af ratio to function and not go bad, so even if your cat has gone bad, I would wonder if there was a more interesting reason for it. Assuming you do need a new cat, I would suggest getting an OEM cat off of ebay and installing it, that sounds legal. It would be cheaper to get an after market direct fit part and have it installed with the OEM heat shields. It would be even cheaper to have just the old cat cut out and replaced with a universal one and have them try to fit the heat shields back on over it. IMO all these are pretty environmentally friendly. All of these would be more reasonably priced than going to the dealer. I don't want to debate reliability, the statistics are out there if you want to look at facts vs hearsay. I will say that it is an interesting tactic to trash talk Subarus on a Subaru forum where you're asking for help.

Invidia catted: Get a tune and go, no problems. Invidia catless: You might have overboost issues which might be resolved with porting the IWG. If I could do it over I would have bought an Invidia Catted DP.

If those are possible with stock hardware it would be news to me. My fob doesn't even have a window button.

I paid 450 for a dyno tune. I was thinking I'd do an etune this time around for the savings...

Google is your friend: http://shop.mooreperformanceparts.com/moore-performance/moore-performance-blast-plates/mp5mtbp/i-2280992.aspx

Guys I'm pretty sure his point was that it doesn't work great.

That is significant! If it adds no protection whatsoever than it's useless.

I was able to use the ones that came with the DP, just barely. I had to start them on by hand and then use a ratchet to tighten them on. I didn't use spring bolts and had no issues. Much easier when bolting on the Q300. Flat flanges are easy.

Now that is an interesting question. Most people on here look for a less soft ride. You could make sure that you don't have a mechanical issue such as a badly worn bushing or bent suspension piece. If your struts are not blown, you could consider switching to the '10-'12 softer springs. I have some that I'd just give you if you're local. I just read your other post on the same subject. I think you might have lowering springs already. There's no rear camber adjustment stock, so noticeable negative camber on the rear means something out of the ordinary for sure!

Why did the AC need to be "recharged," a healthy system effectively does not lose freon. That would be a red flag in AZ, but maybe in Vermont it wouldn't be. The concern I would have about previous accidents would be unseen structural damage. A close inspection in the front and back (get under the car with a flashlight!) could clear that up. That's all I can think of. Can't tell too much from the ad.

Adequate boost control means (in my mind) being able to dial down to 18psi, even with an aftermarket bpv. I'm frustrated. I bought this thinking that it would give better boost control than the other options, and this test only seems to show that it's not notably worse than the others. They seem to be on the ragged edge of boost control and calling it good. If I had known this I would have bought the Invidia catless and got my wastegate ported. Still might do that.

So to be clear: Your car is at the same tuner shop that Nameless just did their test at, and they found a mechanical reason with the dp that was preventing adequate boost control?

I would be down for that. I need to get a quote on time & cost of porting to find out if I can do it in one day. If it takes more than one then I might as well do it myself.

If that has material missing I would get a replacement since it will cast shadows and maybe be even more visible when/if painted. If it's just discoloration, then it only matters if you are going to leave it unpainted.

I vote OEM so as to not muddy the waters. Didn't someone else have issues with the Totally Stainless bolts being off by a minuscule amount?

.

Hope that hot air intake is tuned for.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/5935542354.html "V4 Turbo" lol