Sarang

I have actually thought about that quite a bit as well. I would consider using the windshield sprayer and just flushing it out and using mostly water. I could either reroute the sprayer nozzles to just inside the scoop, or T off the line and add a nozzle in there. Running just water has danger of corrosion or freezing (not in PHX), so I could put some rubbing alcohol in too, but then I'd have to get the ratio right so I'm not introducing a flammable liquid into my super hot engine bay.

You should see what it's like in Phoenix! I had intake temps over 180 and coolant that would not go down below 213 no matter what (on a 116 day). I even emailed Cobb about it and they reassured me that my ecu could compensate for it... by taking all my power away.

I have seriously considered water and/or meth injection too. It might offset some of the heat related power loss that makes up 2/3 of life in Phoenix. I would even consider just water injection to avoid a retune and just decrease coolant temps. IDK though, it's a significant investment to not take full advantage of it.

Maybe port your wastegate while you have the turbo off

Any idea what getting it ported would cost? Would this require a retune? I'm trying to get a feel for the end-of-the-day cost before I commit.

https://static.cobbtuning.com/cobbtuningweb/site/maps/subaru/map_notes/SUBA_US_LGT_10-11.pdf Whoa, for 93 y'all get 17psi at stage 1? I hadn't realized for some reason. That must be nice...

Maybe I'm confused here... doesn't the first post say 350/350? I'm not sure what your next move for more low torque would be. water/meth?

So did you get a protune for stage 2? I did notice that on my setup (not super different from yours) that the cobb ots stage 2 was very noticeably worse than the stage 1. Slower response, weaker pull, that sort of thing.

Those are some bold aesthetic choices. Also, isn't our scoop restricting such a large tmic? For "600hp range" I would think a fmic would be well justified. Isn't there an airbag under those gauges? This just doesn't look terribly well thought out.

The 15+ WRX uses a different style (and shape) MAF. What are you planning to do about that? Speed Density?

OP: How do you think the oem CP would fit? (or would it?) Do you think that the AVO silicon CP would fit well since it's semi-flexible? Are our radiator hoses the same too?

If you could demonstrate that the older dp works and the newer one doesn't, that would probably count for a lot. I'm in a similar boat as far as not having tons of cash to drop on re tunes. I like the sound of my catback but now the car over boosts on occasion and I just don't want to pay to tune it out.

If I may offer some devil's advocate thoughts: -The squeaky wheel gets the grease. If you want to get a response from Nameless, getting multiple people to contact them will be worth more than a few who choose to be loud or obnoxious. (I'm not saying you are being that way, just that numbers mean more.) -If you want Nameless to offer a solution at their expense you must take away the possibility that they could argue (reasonably) that the issue does not really exist, or is an installation problem. I think you need logs from multiple people that say that over boosting is unavoidable in its current configuration. Opinions from multiple tuners would be worth even more. Logs of over boosting on 0 WGDC maps would be ideal. Just my thoughts

Yeah you do have a strong case for a full refund return if it doesn't work out.

This kinda makes it look like there are two cats in the J pipe, one before the O2 sensor and one after: http://parts.camelbacksubaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy25L-TURBO-6MT-4WDGT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6021266/AIR-DUCT-EXHAUST-10MY-12MY/B14-073-02.html And this shows the correct path of our factory exhaust: http://parts.camelbacksubaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy25L-TURBO-6MT-4WDGT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6024320/EXHAUST-EXHAUST--MUFFLER-10MY-10MY/B14-440-03.html I would call them out on their diagram not matching the OEM's or the layout of your vehicle. That's their problem, not yours.

That looks more like a '10 WRX exhaust.It seems like you could get somewhere since that doesn't even represent your car's layout.

There is no secondary cat stock. I just popped out to my garage to look at my stock pipes that are leaning against the wall. There is a cat in the J pipe, nothing in the intermediate pipe, a resonator in the mid pipe, and the cans. That's all. I call steaming BS. Perhaps they could show you the location of this cat in the parts diagrams from Subaru.

Mine is still functioning properly. With the warm weather we've been having lately heat soak is more of an all the time thing so I'm sure the ecu is pulling timing.

Same: one turn from the stiffest setting. I can hear it a little when I shift or let off the gas in boost, but it is pretty subtle. Enough that I enjoy it but my wife doesn't notice.

Yes. Source: I have one installed.

I did as well. No creep. Target was/is 18 and I never saw higher than 18.5

Get the '14 springs. Do it. They're cheap. My '10 springs were like driving a boat.

Restrictor pill? Could you explain some more? EDIT: would this not apply to me since I have the Grimmspeed EBCS?

My KYB struts for 2013 3.6R did not seem noticeably stiffer. The springs from the 2013 3.6R are stiffer for sure; like the car should have had stock. If you want sporty, get stiffer springs. If you want it to not handle like a life raft, the 2013 springs should be fine.

If you have the OEM catback you may want to replace the donut gasket... or not. I forgot to get a new one when I did mine and the old one did not leak so I didn't replace it.