Sarang

My downpipe and custom tune made a very big difference in spool. I would suggest downpipe, AP, and e-tune. That'll get you to 1000-1200 easily. The bpv would be good too if you can wing it. But the custom tune is the single biggest improvement. You've read this I hope: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-gt-power-roadblocks-and-solutions-259192.html

FYI You'll get better response in the 5th gen section. TMIC doesn't increase hp by itself. Without a tune it may even hurt your hp. For the price of a new TMIC, I would suggest getting a fuel pump and injectors and running e85 (with a custom tune). The next best option is just a custom tune. The difference between the off-the-shelf tune and custom is very noticeable. To answer your question, any TMIC for the 2015+ WRX will work. Not the STI, and not the WRX charge pipe. CNT Racing has a cheap one that looks fine, Grimmspeed has the best looking one IMO. Don't forget to replace the coupler between the throttle body and the intercooler as it is prone to failure. This thread has some good reading on the best bang for your buck mods: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-gt-power-roadblocks-and-solutions-259192.html

Cheap Method Race Wheels on Amazon. Discount Tire does price matching too Only $102 per wheel. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01035MMMK/?coliid=I14MK30MYE2MDM&colid=25JWKAHK38T1M&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The '13+ springs with a rear sway bar solve the boaty feel. It feels like a sport sedan should from the factory. If you want more than a stock like feel, then definitely investigate the Eibachs. And to reinforce dgoodhue, seriously, that rear sway bar make a huge positive difference. It changes the car.

Do you want something stiffer than stock? Do you want a drop at all? I have 2013 3.6R springs and KYB struts on my LGT and I like them. I would call that a safe, budget friendly setup. The Eibach springs are supposed to be similar to stock with a 1" drop, after that everything is stiffer I think. For struts, there is an adjustable Koni option and Cusco makes some that I have not seen reviewed.

I had that issue on normal-ish driveways with my 2010 springs. the 2013 springs that I installed fixed that. IMO the 2010 springs were just too soft.

Thank you! And 'whatever is laying around' is exactly my version of a shim too

Yes. I just walked mine in to Ace Hardware and matched it with the stuff on the spool, I don't remember the size.

Can you explain some more how you shimmed it please? I think I'll give that a try. I did remove the headlights to install new bulbs a while ago so I probably just borked it up.

The corner at the headlight and the fender. It looks fine at the wheel. Replacing the clip part does sound like a good idea, but I'd hate to spend the ~$50 and it not be fixed.

Does anyone know why this happens and how to avoid it? I'm going to be putting a new bumper on mine later this summer and I'd like to never have the problem again. Mine does it on both sides. I can push it in and hear/feel an audible click, but when I walk out to the car again they are always popped out.

I noticed that there is a Mishimoto Thermostatic Oil Cooler for the 08-14 WRX on sale on Amazon, $260, if anyone's interested: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GU8IM2Y/?coliid=I1AC8R5R505AXF&colid=25JWKAHK38T1M&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I have the Grimmspeed EBCS. I have it zip tied on because it does not mount, but the hoses are the same. I think the Perrin inlet will work, I'm thinking about trying it.

What do you guys think about this fitting our cars? https://www.perrin.com/shop/air-induction/3-0-inlet-hose-with-nozzle I like the idea of the 3" silicone since it could later be hooked up to a 3" turbo inlet...

Mine didn't have a cover from the factory and it seems ok

Does anyone have any experience with this: http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/afm-mr-freeze-water-methanol-injection-system/ I find it appealing since it is mechanical, but they say the tank would have to be lower than the turbo, which seems like a no-go on our cars.

FWIW, I had a similar experience with my used Q300. it was a little too droney/loud on the freeway and when driving in my condo complex at ~1800 rpm. I had a 3" Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator welded in that completely solved the problem for me. Drone gone. Volume decreased by around 10%. It's more flat or dull sounding below 3k rpm, but once you're I'm in boost and/or above 3k rpm the sound gets much more raw and aggressive (as it was before adding the resonator).

Interesting. Maybe my results have more to do with the radiator than the thermostat? I thought of this as cheap insurance for the heat. Any extra power I can (safely) get when it's hot out is nice too, but I am acutely aware that my car was not tested in the Phoenix summer.

Changed the oil and installed the Mishimoto radiator and OEM STI lower temp thermostat today. Part #s: MMRAD-STI-08 21200AA072 Install of the rad was a bit of a pain. As a BBPeik mentioned when he wrote up his experience, I ended up grinding down a significant amount of the plastic fan support on the passengers side and one of the fan bolts. As it sits now everything clears but only just. I used a brass threaded cap from the hardware store to plug the extra hole that our cars do not use. Results: The car used to sit at 210-215 F in traffic, hanging out at ~200 in cruise, and occasionally getting down to ~190 if I coasted down an offramp. Now it hangs out at 185-190 in traffic, got up to 192 after a third and fourth gear pull, and stabilized at 188.4 even when I coasted down the offramp. I'm happy, hopefully this will help the ECU to be willing to keep the AC on next time its 127 out and I'm driving up that super long uphill section of the I-10 out by Coachella. (Last time I was seeing coolant temps up to 237 and the ECU turned off the AC at 222, not fun in the summer driving in to the setting sun...)

Mine is in use and functioning. I did port my wastegate. I though about going catless, but I don't really want to buy another downpipe because you know I won't be able to sell my Nameless one... I'd say the most cost effective option if you already own it is to port the wastegate when you install it and then get a pro tune.

oem

Mine have not squealed at all in ~20k miles

Prothane 161610

Don't remind me

I had an ex like that...