blackobxt

In all the years I owned my Sti I can probably count the number of times I used the intercooler sprayer on one hand. The one time I ran it at the track, I used a bag of ice and had a friend pull it out before I got to the burnout box. I can’t really tell you if that was worth it or not lol

Lol similar to this with much smaller clips

I’ve never used cam locking tools on any timing belt I’ve done. Closest thing I’ve used is actually on our cars and I’ll go get those cheap plastic clamps from harbor freight and clip them on drivers side sprocket to help hold the belt to the sprocket

That didn’t bend them. Line everything up and count teeth or do whatever you have to do to ensure it’s lined up right and carry on.

Does anyone have part numbers for the actuators? Mine also sounds like a percolator.

Will do! The listing of things I wanted to do to this car is steadily getting smaller and smaller and the remaining things are pretty expensive.

Konis and Swift springs ordered. Going to be torture waiting till august to put them on. I have the whiteline rsb with braces and was extremely impressed with how much of a difference it made, and that was with used worn lgt suspension.

Thank y’all for being the voice of reason. Going to do some more research but I think I’m going to try a Koni swift combo. I’ve had issues with whiteline but their customer service has saved it for me. One bushing was missing a crush sleeve, another one had a wrong size bushing and some void filling inserts showed up as a mustang trans mount insert. They sent me new stuff no questions asked and even threw me some free stuff. But I will likely go oem with the ball joint

I’m appreciating the opinions both good and bad here. the car is a daily driver that will never see any auto x or will go down any drag strip but will see the occasional spirited romp and I would like to lean into it a bit on the occasional corner. I just want to be able to enjoy the car a bit more and enjoy the appearance but not have it feel like total garbage. Admittedly what’s on the car now is the most I’ve modified on any of my cars suspension wise. I usually keep the stock suspension maintained and occasionally do some lowering springs and pour the power to them. Most of my notable cars have all been fairly unexciting suspension wise (several mustang gt’s, an 04 cobra, the 10+ z31’s and z32’s, 05 gto) but I really enjoyed how my stock 05 Sti felt driving around.

Looking for opinions. I’m currently looking at bc racing or fortune auto 500. Want it low and tight but not looking for a kidney shot every time I hit a bump and am curious on what you guys would recommend. also what’s the preference on balljoints, oem? only bushings that aren’t whiteline in the rear are the ones with the cammed toe bolts since I’m sure I’m going to have to cut them and even if they come out nice I’m just going to replace them. Is 901700122 the correct part number? thanks in advance my 05 outback xt, currently on lgt struts with king springs in rear And whiteline rsb. Will be getting all the parts for the subframe spacers removal at the end of July when I go to Wyoming for vacation.

I’m currently running mevotec lca’s and they were clunking on both sides at about 10,000 miles. Currently trying to decide what to replace the ball joints with just to add, I knew about the ball joints being less than reliable when I bought them. My stock lca bushings were trash and I wanted to go aluminum without paying for spec b parts.

I felt that the LED’s worked decent in my outback’s fogs but they were very poor in the headlights. Went back to HID’s in the headlights after a few days of trying LED’s.

This^. It likely needs this to handle the initial current demands of turning on.

Does the hid kit use relays?

90% of the HID issues I’ve seen on these are from cheap kits and weird voltage from the DRL. Do you have DRL disabled?

You’re buying that car for the wrong reasons. What you’re wanting will never be beneficial over the cost of just buying a gt. If you want more power, the gt will be cheaper even if someone gave you that 2.5i for free.

I actually hit you up on the tube recently asking about tire size and if you were on the forums. When’s that 6sp swap video coming?

Man I need to buy these and start handing them out

Is the fear that’s pasted all over the internet that pressurizing the crank case runs the risk of blowing cam or crank seals out and that’s why you should cap them? I’m with m sprank on that it’s user error from way over pressurizing the system. I’ve boost leak checked via pressurizing tons of vehicles without capping lines and never had any issues with blowing out seals.

Get ready to have fun with those cam bolts. Have a back up plan just in case

That exhaust valve could just be hanging a touch. When we test our race engines they sometimes leak till you tap the valve a few times or rotate the cam a few times

What psi did you smoke test at?

That’s a lot better than the quotes I got. Are you going to just do a vinyl decal for the lettering?

What are your plans for the powder coating process?

Leak test for sure. Check all lines especially the one to the fpr. No positive pressure on the fpr in boost equals no increase in fp