blackobxt

I’m not currently in the market for a new car, but my friend who I sold my Sti to many years back just told me he’s planning on throwing it up for sale and he wanted to give me the option to buy it before he posts it. car is a 2005 Sti and here’s what I did to it before selling it to him: Converted front end to hawk eye with all oem parts painted aspen white originally silver aps 525 front mount dw850 injectors invidia g200 catback 3” dp tuned by me on e85 sold with around 62,000 miles with lots of extra comfort goodies installed heated seats, 5 channel amp, touch screen, 2 way remote start. since he has owned it he added: coilovers avid1 Av-20 and it now has 121,000 miles. he bought a spare 257 motor on a fresh build with pauter x-beam rods, supertech pistons, Perrin inlet, fp red, tial ewg, tgv deletes and dw850’s. He pulled the perfectly fine motor to switch to the built set up and got caught up in utv racing and enjoying his e85 gr Supra and hasn’t touched it since. He threw a killer deal at me if I buy it as is with both motors and all parts and honestly I’ll deeply regret it if I pass it up. my concerns are the car is 1,000 miles away from me so I have no idea how I’m going to get it to az. Maybe rent a uhaul and trailer?. Second of all the car is tuned with an accessport and e85 is extremely hard to find around me. I have access tuner race still installed on a laptop, I wonder if that still would work?

Correct, need air flowing over the condenser or your ac isn’t going to have a fun time. It won’t cool and your pressures will skyrocket.

I went through a pretty heavy z car phase in my younger days. Owned about 12 z31’s in total including an AE and 4 z32’s 2 of which were TT’s. I doubt I’ll ever own either again but I will always look at them.

I have lost sleep thinking about how dim my jdm hvac is. Drives me absolutely nuts and I’ve always wondered if it’s supposed to be this way (I’ve installed 5 all of which were dim)

Ooooo damn son @m sprank. I’m living vicariously through you at the moment.

Man I remember when you could snag a 240z for under a grand with a little bit of searching through an auto trader or a decent one for like $1,500

Some of us just won’t give you advice again with the same questions and no attempt to rectify any of the issues. Your oil drain is likely your root cause. If the drain is kinked and your motor is throwing all that oil pressure at it will find the weakest place to leak which is usually through the shaft seals and into the compressor and turbine housing causing the smoke and oil in your intercooler.

Second a vac leak if rpm’s are dipping like that.

Let us know what it is please. I’d be interested in what temp it’s cycling at

Ac relay is known for being a failure point. Freon could be low, cabin filter clogged not allowing sufficient airflow across the evaporator causing it to get cold and turn off. Could be lots of things man. My ac wouldn’t cool any lower than 45° till I did the pot mod.

My cv axles were replaced long before I got the car with non oem. I keep a spare bad unit on hand so when I need to use the lifetime warranty at autozone I just bring it in and swap it out. I repeat this once or twice a year which is not ideal but part of the Subaru game unless you want to spring for oem axles.

Can confirm that my Solus Pro can, but required an upgrade and personality key. Can also confirm that Hyundais and kias are cake to steal. Even with a smart key they can be hot wired to start just as easy as a 1990 F-150

That’s interesting, my dad has a 2005 and 2006 outback 2.5i and they both have the same bolt in wheel bearing/ hubs as my 2005 xt. His 05 forester 2.5i and my cousins 05 Wrx had press in bearings.

Just don’t go crazy. Pussy foot it around. I originally put my car together for my wife who loved it till we moved to az and she decided she didn’t want to push a clutch in stop and go traffic. She doesn’t care about going fast at all so having it tuned just wasn’t a big priority so I put a boost gauge in the car that would sound an alarm if the car went over 7psi of boost. Now it’s my car and things have changed dramatically, I just wish I knew it was going to be mine from the start because I would have built it a bit differently

Dude, my modded (bigger turbo, downpipe etc) outback was driven un-tuned for about two years. Most boost it saw was 3lbs and the gauge would sound a warning. One of those un-tuned drives was moving from Cheyenne to Peoria 1,000mi at 80mph. Right before I had it tuned I did a compression and leak down when I did new plugs and it was just as perfect as it was when I put the motor together 20,000mi prior. There really isn’t enough load out of boost to hurt the motor unless the tune is absolute garbage.

I don’t mind either. Now get that bitch tuned.

Gotcha. I went with oem which was actually pretty affordable at $37 a piece. I figured they had a pretty good track record since they survived 18yrs on my car so the new ones will likely live well past the rest of the car.

Just dropping in to let people know you work on brains?

Some questions you’re about to get: You say it’s bone stock then say some upgrades. What are the some upgrades? What dyno was it on? They read differently. What year is your car? How many miles? What kind of condition is it in?

I’m sure it highlights every scratch as well. I’d have an aneurysm with how dusty dirty it gets here in the desert

That’s the stuff right there.

Pm sent

That I’m not 100% sure on. I know when you check the whiteline bump steer kit it’s also the same for sti of similar years. I’m in the market for the 2015 rack myself but haven’t yet looked into those details. If I had my guess…. No difference or are interchangeable

Yes and it’s irrelevant. If you are lgt, your existing intermediate shaft is fine especially with the lockdown

The steering link you’re referring to is only needed when removing the outback subframe spacers