xrayspecs

So spent a fair amount of time calling and driving around to all the alignment shops in what I consider a reasonable distance from my house to get an alignement apointment. I got a combination of our lift isnt low enough, to we dont touch after market suspension parts or we dont touch lowered cars. found one shop that had an infloor but there booked out for a while. So resorted to a method i havent used since high school. strings on a stick with jack stands, a steel ruler, a straight edge, ratchet straps and a digital angle gauge. Set the camber to 1.5° in the front and 1.6° in the rear, initially had around 1/2" of toe out on both the front and the rear with a thrust angle towards the passangers side. got the toe set to an 1/8" toe in total so 1/16" per wheel and my patience wore out before i could get it any tighter. i also tried to center the steering wheel and overshot the take up on the tie rods. But again my patience wore out before i could get it centered 100%. Also found the source of the recurring passanger foot well rattle, muffler hanger keeps working its way off the hanger shown here. the aftermarket hanger doesnt have a mushroom on it to keep it secured. ill have to get that fixed, as its a minor nucance to have to put back on. Well I got the car aligned and driving, its not twitchy, its nice and balanced and has amazing turn in and stays flat as can be. spring rates i picked are a tad bit agressive on the freeway, the car feels like a roller coaster on the bucks and heves of the highway. but its crazy how responsive this chassis is when its spruced up. I had to go into my office and one of the great canyon runs is 20 min away so instead of sitting in traffic I decided why not go over and run it. Saw a handfull of supercars, a ton of civis and a few MR-2's on the way up. was late enough in the day i didnt have anyone to chase down the hill and just enjoyed the drive. was the perfect timing to stop for some pictures too as all the pull outs were empty. in the words me and my friend say..... Canyons Canyons Canyons.

I have a couple of tubes of the whiteline bushing grease that i used when I put everything back together. I cleaned everything up and regreased the bushings on the front and the sway bar in the back since they have mileage on them. Polymer bushings take way more maintenance and regular pm than rubber bushings. But I knew that going into the upgrades. No squeaks and just nice and stiff suspension.

Been super busy on this as the more work I do on it and the more finished it gets for this stage of work, the more and more fun it is to drive and the better the car sounds, feels and handles. Raised up the front tonight and checked on the squeek. Reclocked the timing for the steering wheel to the rack and pinion input shaft so that when I take it to align later this week they dont use the tie rods to straight the wheel out and have the rack wayyyy off center. Also replaced the NSS with the known good switch off the '02. Installed the front jdm spats as well and did the first full tank fill up on the car. Source of the scatching sound that I noticed after putting the rear end in. I couldnt hear it before over the ps noise, the rear wheel bearing whine and the heat sheild rattle. Lucky the scratch is just on the surface and the dust shield took most of the wear. bent the dust shield back to where it should be and the sound was gone when turning the front wheels by hand. the other rattle i had was the muffler in the rear being off one of the hangers and twisting the midpipe into the heat shields. I think when backing out of my driveway it knocked the hanger loose as the tip contacts the street if i dont come at an angle. Installing the front spats was not as smooth as the rears. While the rear bumper for already had holes in the bumper in the correct locations for all the supplied j-fasteners and clips in the JDM kit. The front did not have the back too holes for holding the nutserts shown on the diagram on the sheet shown here. I installed the front J clip, added some additional 3m tape on the inside bottom where the fastners go. once it was all installed I drilled the side sill tirm with a 1/8th bit and used the supplied screws to just screw right to the sill tirm to hold the spat on the inside. One thing i dont usually see since everyone gets these second hand is they reuse the clip on the front fender well to hold the spat down. the JDM ones use a j clip and a metric fastener with washer to hold the spat/sill/fender all togeher. this gets nice and snug and keeps there from being any big gaps. Missing square holes for plastic nutserts on the USDM side sills. under this tab is where I added additional trim tape. Picture of post install of the sill and fasnteners And because gas station lighting just hits hard and I just looks so damn good now I had to take pictures.

4.11 rear diff installed and all ready to go into the car. you can also see the exhaust on the bumper here that is the reason i prefer downturns. So much goodness installed in '01 now. with the whiteline swaybars that were on the car I now have the full whiteline catalog for bushings on this car. In the process of working on the car, facebook reminded me that 5 years ago as well i was working on the '02. Took some time and cleaned all the brake dust off the wheels. once i get the car aligned and the fenders all rolled. These will be going up for sale. i dont need 2 sets of rims and tires. Installed the rear Cusco strut bar. decieded not to trim the rear trim panels for the bar, i dont ever put anything in the trunk and this aint a show car so its not a big deal. nice that this one has the oem option turn net. Also dug out all the fasterners and parts for the JDM factory option rear spats. I bought these on here off another member a few years back and never paint matched them green or installed them on the '02 theyve been in the parts pile for some time. I also have the matching fronts but havent installed them yet. Nice that theyre white and have never been installed before. I think these are the BH option ones as the fit is a little different on the bottom back inside once they were installed. but honestly its not to bad. all the instructions are a nifty little bulletin to have for the car build folder. Nothing like some rare option oem pieces. now if only I could find the font lip option spoiler kit in white. It lives, runs and drives like a whole new car. need to take it for an alignment this week so that I can take it on longer drives than around the block. left on the to-do for the parts, the car is still thowing the same two engine codes, from the MIL. so Ill have to change the throttle body so the 01 ecu can idle the car correctly and run right. also need to swap the NSS for the front. Also need to swap the head unit from my 02 to the 01 or buy a new one so I can have car play. Last is move over the Wink mirror to the 01. then itll be driving it till I finish some other projects.

I took it on some small drives around to make sure everything is up to shape. sounds like i have a brake dust shieldin the front drivers side that got bent moving subframes around that is riding on a rotor. ill have to fix that when i get under the front agian. I also noticed that it sounded like the rear wheel bearings were starting to howl. Not unusuall for a 20 year old/180k mile bearings to be worn out. All the m ore motivation to finish swaping parts. This lasted about a week before taking it all apart agian. put the whole front back together on the '02 so that I could put it on the front wheels. once it was together It was a lot easier to sping the car on with the jack stands with no engine in the car. All ready to have the rear subframe removed with all the speed parts. Rear subframe from the '02 with all the polymer and shocks out of the 02. Pulled the '01 into the garage, I started to removed the trunk trim/appolstry bits and noticed there was water on the tire protector/board. Thats not great news. the spare tire well had some small puddle disculorations like it had gotten water in the past.... great. Continued pulling with removing the rear floor mat, and the cover trim pieces on the trunk, felt the water on the insulation on the driver side of the trunk, followed it over and noticed. this puddle in the fender well..... I wonder how many times that has flilled up over the years. The piece for the car jack has swelled up and is moldy, so this has happend a few times it looks like. At first glance it was obvious the moonroof drain tube is not connected to the drain connection in the fender well. After some swear words and fishing around in the car found the drain tube. thats a relief that I wont have to drop the head liner and fish a new one through the C-pillar. Put the drain line back in the fender vent, and sucked all the water out with a vaccum and dried out the fender well with some shop rags, doesnt look like theres any surface rust or anything anywhere. So glad I caught it now. Hopefully it stays put now. Passenger side was all in place as it should be. Whole rear subframe off the '01. After getting the subframe down all the bushings in the '01 were in the same state as all the old ones on the '02 were. I'd recon to say any 3rd gen legacy with over 100k miles needs all the rear link bushings replaced. Time has just gotten to them all. Nice view of the magnaflow axle back that came on the '01. Im not a big fan of the straight tip, might have that replaced with a pie cut 90° downturn in the future. The two main parts needed from the '01 rear subframe is the whiteline rear sway bar, as its much heavier and the 4.11:1 rear diff to match the transmission. Another upgrade is the 4.11 from the limited has a VLSD in it. Removed the diff and cleaned it up a bit. I think it has been over filled a few times, as the whole thing was coated in gear oil from the breather down. . Subframe getting ready to go into the '01. Whiteline rear swaybar on the car. Set the links to the stiffer setting of the start, why not since everything else is set to stiff right?

Finished burping the cooling system tonight and took the car for a spin in the torrential down pour to make sure that it would stay cool and to check for moon roof leaks, good on both accounts as there was no dripping on the headliner for the 1/2 hour drive. looks like the previous leak was from a dirty moon roof seal and possibly the dirt sitting on the seal thats good news its fixed. downside is i noticed a at certain idle speed though that the cat hanger rubber is compelety worn out as the exhaust has a ring at certain rpm, i thought the cat hanger felt loose when i was under the transmission doing the shifter bushings. another thing to add to parts to grab from the 02.

Havent been working on the as much with rain and the holidays havent had much time so tackled some of the little things. i havent been able to work on the 02 getting it back together to flip in around as i have a birdbath that froms in the garage when it rains super heavy. With all the rain took the time to check the moonroof gutters, they looked pretty clear, and the drains were all unplugged, did a water check and they all dribbled out the respective spots at the bottom of the car which is good. While looking at the moon roof realized that the installed wind deflector had some huge piles of muck undeath and the window seal all the way around had a lot of dirt in it, figured that was contributing to a leaky seal as water was probably coming through that way. wind deflector that is currently installed on the moonroof. You can see hear that the dirt goes right up to the window seal, this is part of the water ingress. All cleaned up, I put the wind defector back on for now, it may come off with the rack here in the future. Decided it was also time to swap the power steering pump as i dont enjoy hearing it whine. While removing the power steering pump from the car the threads on one of the bolts for the bracket came out with the bolt. I knew that the install of the engine had gone to smooth. location of the spicy suck spring, on the block. location not the greatest but its accessable. Removed power steering pump fromt he car, so that the unit can be replaced with the pump from the blown up motor. All ready to go waiting on thread repair. Spoke with one of my friends on the repair, I was going to use a Helicoil for the threads, he suggested that I look into a Time-Sert. After some reseatch it looked like a better solution. It just took a while to ship out. Had to remove the rad, the a/c condensor, and main pully to get to the threads, once that was all out it was a really quick process to bore, ream, thread, and install the insert. checking and realizing the pully would need to come off. Thread repair inserts are steel. Uses a special driver to install. Power steering pump installed and all back together. I also removed the air inject solenoid and bracket as the 01 ECU doesnt have any pin outs to control it on the engine plug on the B21/E2 connector and its useless. If the ecu keeps throwing codes and idling high (1000-1500) ill have to change the throttle body and the E2 Harness as the 01 MT E2 Harness is very different than the 02 MT harness thats on the engine. (sensors are all different). The car also has a engine cut at 6K rpm only in first. its odd. While under the hood checkd all the plug wires to make sure they are all good, looks like the number 2 cylinder plug had some water intrusion. the plug wire was really corroded. so replaced the plug wires with those off the blown up engine and cleaned up the post with some sand paper till it was shiny again. Also as now Ive been driving the car I missed the timing on the steering ujoint by a spline or two based on where the car goes straing. I tried to adjust the timing, however with the car as low as it is now, cant get to the bottom pinch bolt on the ujoint as the CV is in the same space that a wrench needs to go to loosen it up. will have to reaign the wheel to the rack, here this week when i get the front end up to swap the NSS. The steering wheel is off just a smidge.

You will need to check the VIN and see if the car was the 50 state car or a cali car emisisons. The 50 state cars have different emissions and controls than the cali cars. more information here https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2004-h4-california-emissions-outback.525689/

Thanks ive always really loved the jdm twin turbo version of these cars and have slowly been building the one I always wanted, hopefully theres a single turbo in the future for this one. They really are hard to find, unless you want to convert an outback, finding a GT Trim in the BH is hard and I cant recall the last time I saw another BE on the road, and I now have two of them. Whats funny is I found out when the transmission in the 02/L blew up that finding a still running/scrap yard manual L was just as hard to find since they came with 3.90 FD. The GT/Outback have 4.11 FD so the 5mt out of them wont work. I dont know what im going to do with the 02/L chassis thats now sitting in my garage, it would be really cool to find a really clean H6 and do a manual swap since I have all the parts that it would take in the spare car. then maybe do a blitzen front end and have a sedan and a wagon in the drive.

Slow work as its been cold and rainy when I've had free time. I did manage to get a little break this weekend and disabled the DRL's and divorced the fog lights from the light stock so that they can be turned on with acc power and stay on with the high beams. The light control module on the GT/Outbacks is the vertical module next bolted to the steering column next to the 12V seatbelt timer module. The DRL module has two plugs a black one and a white one, the white connector on top needs to be removed and the DRL's will be disabled. Tuck the white connector back up into the harness and its all done. Much easier than it was on the '02 L. Also confirmed with the rain thats been happening that the moonroof drains are infact plugged, when driving around the block it dribbles all around the headliner trim. Once the rain clears I will have to clean out the rain gutters and drains. This is the plug here that needs to be removed. Time to divorce the fog light switch from the headlight stock so that fogs stay on with high beams. Switch panel off. I am not sure what the wires on the right are for, as they all plug into a deadface on the front. If anyone knows what the 3rd switch on the right on the sedans is for I'd love to know, especially since whatever it is the whole harness looks to already be installed. Depined, black ground and yellow/black connections, jumpered and soldered toghether. Heatshrinked up for reinstall. Fully indepenent fog lights now. I'm not vibing with the tall Drag lug nuts on the ARP studs, dont like this look, replacement short lug nuts are on the to buy list for sure now. Much better daylight view of the hood/bumper overlap and the fender/bumper aligning perfect now! I need to pick the locks for the roof rack so that I can see how it looks without it, I didnt get the keys for the roof rack when I bought the car. Picture of the JDM cut off on the bulbs. You can see they are backwards to the USDM cut offs. I might eventually do the reflector black out that just makes the cut off flat. Its a lot of work as you have to bake and reseal the headlamps. Not sure how the misses feels about me baking car parts in the kitchen stove. 3/4 rear view, checking all the lights, the 3rd window and the wing light both work with the brake pedal. The door puddle lights on both sides work, the 02 L didnt have those, its a nice upgrade. Car rear view. i need to get my DSLR out and grab some good standing shots of it.

More small work on the car after work when I get the time, lots going on this time of year that keeps pulling me away. I need to find an aftermarket rad cowl that isnt bent, the custco will do for now but the bend in it still bugs me.. using the white strut bar for now. blacking it out is on the to do list. As i wasnt sure if when I was going to be done taking the bumper on and off i had skipped installing the side supports and putting the fender and wheel liner clips on. Since i dont think the bumper will be coming off anytime soon i dug them out and put them on. also picture are the JDM wheel deflectors i had from the half cut, i was going to install them at the same time but it looks like the USDM strut and fender liners arent drilled for them. a project for another day. they went back into the spares pile. Fenders line up way better now! all the little finishing steps always take way more time than anticipated. Since I had dug them all out earlier, and am not planing to take the bumper off anytime soon, put the nice new bumper clips on. The car has been detailed great on the outside and for the floors/seats but is in need of a lot of unseen detail work. when the engine was out i spent a large chunk of time with the degreaser and scrubbers cleaning up on the firewall, subframe, and fenders. anywhere i could reach without removing more parts got a scrub. continuing in that the rear trunk rain gutters were filled with tree junk and dirt/sap mix of some sort, but a bit of cleaner and elbow grease and it mostly cleaned up. I need to get a few more detail burshes to be able to reach all the spots here and under the hood. Soon ill have to check all the moon roof drains to make sure they arent clogged with the same gunk. Before, also added a save the stick sticker I had. After, also got the bottom lip of the trunk that was covered in the same stuff. More personal touches to the car, Added the Hella Supertones and put the front plate on. As the Hood latch has to come off to get the passanger side horn bolt off the car, I took the chance to better align the hood and bumper overlap and it's a much better fit now.

Update to match the forum for sell template.

Pulled everything out of the boxes and took a hard invintory of the items, for the future so theres no more "it should be in the boxes". This will be the third time I have gone through the boxes I know what is in them. Parts in my possession almost all used with unk milage unless followed with NIB(new in box). (1) '01 full oem BE exhaust less cat, unk milage (4) 28111AE270 16X6.5 ET48 oem snowflakes silver with tires that are dead (1) 20451AE06A OEM rear stabalizer bar. (1) 20410AC020 OEM front stabilizer D=20 (1) J5010LS300 Legacy All Weather Mats (1) 33-2154 K&N drop in filter (1) SPROL-H2186 Tien, spring silencer rubber, NIB. (1) GR-2 KYB rear shock (2) OEM rear GT-LTD fully asembled struts/springs/tophat (1) 20330AW17A OR 20330AE18A, OEM GT-LTD front coil spring not sure if its the left or right front spring. (2) 34140AC000 OEM inner tie rods. (1) 66150AE06AAC OEM cup holder console box. (1) unk gaskets looks incomplete 16---------B (1) 30216AA030 Cover complete clutch housing NIB (1) 34317AE030 Steering wheel trim lower NIB (1) 22659AA120 Air control gasket (IAC) NIB (20) chrome acorn style lug nuts (5) 90914007 Wheel well liner retainer clip bumper NIB (2) 802008270 Nut NIB (1) 909130047 Clip outer garnish NIB (1) 909140010 Clip undercover and exhaust cover NIB (1) lot misc fasteners (4) 904560042 Wheel well liner screw tapping screw hexagon head M5x16 NIB (1) 909220000 Grommit rear tail light W2200 NIB (1) 092316502 Hose clamp NIB. (1) 84920AE040 Bulb exterior tail and stop NIB (2) 85066GA110 Instrument panel bulb NIB (1) 8" section of exhaust tubing (1) air bag inflator, unk p/n (1) 00-04 horn and air bag (1) 00-04 black steering wheel with horn and airbag inflator (2) 44059AA010 Flange bolt exhaust pipe NIB (1) 20550AA010 Nut self lock front shock absorber NIB (1) 34621AC024 Power steering hose o-ring NIB (2) 34439AE00A O-ring connector oil pump NIB (1) 8311AE02A Airbag clockspring NIB (1) 22627AA13A MAP sensor (1) Throttle position sensor (1) 92175AE01A Parking brake cover. More small work on the car, lots of little things to do so that it feels like my car. Found the source of the P0107 code, and the hesitation at idle/off throttle. In my rush to put the air box back on one of the 6 times i took it on and off i forgot to reinstall the valve cover breathers. poped it back on and the motor is much happier now. no more instant P0107. still getting the P1507 code, going to start with changing the NSS on the transmission over since i know the one on the 02 is good. Removed the oem shift knob pulled the Hurst gray one of the '02. ill have to see about getting a black or all white one at some point to better match. ive always liked pool ball style shifters better than anything else. The gray will have to do for now. Test fit the Custco bar, to make it fit on the 02 i had to space up the hood in the cowl area, not ideal as it can mess with the cooling on the car, since it is a high pressure area. i wanted to see if with the JDM hood it would clear the bottom since i hadnt put it on the 02 for a test fit yet. The JDM strut towers might be in a slightly different angle/position... as on the USDM chasis it runs into the hood as you can see the scratch here from setting the hood down lightly on it. ill run the solid strut bar that came with the car for now, but it needs to be painted a different color, maybe STI pink or all black. the white doesnt color matche the chassis and it bugs the hell out of me. also installed the factory battery tie down, and noticed its majorly corroded on the bottom side. maybe time for an aluminum upgrade maybe go all Kartboy when i get the short throw shifter, the endlinks and pitch stop.

Brake and Clutch bleed! oh man was the fluid disgusting brown, nothing like fresh fluids! doing it with a self bleeder kit always takes sometime but thats the way it goes. All bleed and taking the time to try and burp the coolant before the first fire. everything connected and torqued to spec! First time on the ground with all the fresh parts. still missing the undertray and some clips for the bumper that i need to put on the sides, but at this point im to excited to fire it up! Man the BE's look so good with the jdm parts and dropped low on the ground. Got the car started up and drove around the block! the ECU did throw a MIL, and two codes when i scanned. one for P1507, and for P0107. the reman power steering pump thats on the 02 motor that went into the car is also screaming for its life, and sounds terrible. I'm going to have to pull the ps pump off the 01 motor and swap it onto the 02 motor. The P1507, for some research looks to be the neutral switch on the transmission, so cleared the code. If the P1507 comes back ill have to get the switch off the 02 transmission and throw it on the 01. the P0107, is for manifold absolute pressure circuit low, I had a feeling that the ecu would throw a code like this when i started the swap but was hopeful that it wouldnt happen. the 01 manual has a different throttle body and different pressure/temp sensor part number than the manual 02 does. ill clear it and drive it a while and if it pops back up, ill have to do a throttle body swap (possibly the manifold) and wiring so that the ECU is happy. BUT the best part, got to take it around the block! Its in the driveway now! It looks so good where its sitting! now i need to flip the 02 in the garage so that i can get to the rear subframe and swap those now so that I'll have all the new parts on one chassis! These should have come with the hood scoop from the factory like the JDM car's got. it really goes with the chassis. On the to do list now. Swap the power steering pump finish installing all the xmas tree fasteners in the bumper on the fenders. install JDM rain gaurds/spats figure out the P0107 CODE issue. put the trans subframe, brakes and wheels back on the 02 so that i can flip it around in the garage to access the rear subframe. swap rear subframes this will take swaping the diffs as the 01 has a 4.11FD and the 02 has a 3.90FD cant mix and match the rear diff and the trans. roll the fenders so i can fit 235's 4 wheel alignment

More work getting closer to firing the 01 up. Torqued the power steering hoses down, if i ever want to add a turbo, will have to go the custom hose route. When putting the starter in, and landing the grounds noticed that the ground strap clip was missing, pulled the piece off the 01 and moved it over to the motor from the 02 and everything sealed up so I could start burping the cooling system. Borla headers and everyting bottom side all torqued to spec. Also the 01 had the OEM undertrain on it, but from all the leaks it was super oil soaked. lots of degreaser and washing of it all. Put all the hoses back on and the rad is in, time to fill with fluid and burp it. The heater core hose that was on the motor on the 02 didnt quite seal up tight, it felt good when i put it on and tightened it up but, when trying to burp. Still need to get fuel hoses now and she will be all ready to fire up. Got the front lights and bumper skin on as well! looking great. Checking that I did all the wiring corret. Foglights work and they are headlight independent now. Headlamps, turnsignals, high/low beams work and the dash indicator works as well!. not much left on the font end to-do now!

Thanks for the offer but for the price that youve pm'd me for the carpet I can buy other parts that I have planned out for the car. I was a bit let down that you didnt have everything ready to go when I took a monday off work to rent a truck and came down and get the car, thats the last i'll say on it.

I went through all the parts you gave me when I got the car home, the actual delivered parts are a bit shorter than the parts list discussed and from what you keep telling me was in the boxes you gave. I have miss matched oem springs, shocks, fasteners, oem sway bars, oem cat back and other random interior bits, but no filters. I personally dont trust K&N filters long run, they are too thin and i dont want to dust the engine, I usually go with the single use WIX filters as for the money to filter density is pretty high.

the outer driverside back timing cover on the 02 you can see the missing nutzert, so will be using the one off the 01. Belts and timing all buttoned up with and torqued down to spec. Cam's torque checked, belt teeth counts checked and match factory sepc's, cant be to careful as this it the first time ive done timing on a SOHC EJ. All on the hoist and ready to slide in! Had some trouble getting it all to slide together the last little, but pulled it all apart, rotated the imput shaft a bit, and then it all slide together perfect. Engine sitting in the bay, ready to be finished off. Started all the engine bolts, and its waiting to be finished up, hopefully have it all done tomorrow. Still have a few things left to get before I can finish up and fire it. to-do still. buy Anti-freeze and subaru coolant additive New airfilter, its just time for one dont want to dust the motor fuel lines exhaust manifold/header gaskets exhaust header/cat gasket clearance headlight bucket area for JDM ballasts install bumper and skin. fog light switch jumper for headlight indepenance drl disable so the hid's dont burn out the ballasts bleed brakes roll fenders other misc things.

More progress on this long weekend. Finished up the passanger side suspenion and got it togther. Since almost everything under the car has been touched and is suspension based, going through and torque checking every bolt to make sure its to spec. Straightend out the steering wheel and installed the shortened steering u-joint. installed the throwout bearing off the 02, it felt tighter and made less noise when spun by hand. lubed up the contact points with high temp red grease so its ready to install. Since I had this problem when I installed the JDM transmission a few years ago in the 02, I checked to make sure that the dowel pins were punched out of the transmission, nothing like trying to punch those out under the car when you cant get the transmission or engine to slide together. you can see here the passanger side is in the transmission, the 02 engine has them still on both sides so I punched it out. Topped off the clutch reservoir and the brake reservoir so that they can gravity fill while waiting to get bleed. the whole brake system will need to be bleed once all the work is done. Started the electrical work to fit the JDM headlamps and fog lights. JDM fog light connectors are way nicer than the usdm, they have a weather seal. JDM headlamp connectors, same as before, pulled all the way to the fuse box so its just the same as it would have been on the JDM OEM car I stripped it from. The 01 fuse box lid was cracked, good thing ill be replacing it with the JDM cover. Since I was already super deep in the fuse box, took the time to cut in the power to the fog relay from the wagon washer plug that the sedan doesnt have so that the fog has key switched power. still need to jumper the plug on the dash and disable the DRL's. Power steering cooler installed on the chassis, will plumb this in after the engine is in. Next step is swaping the timing reluctor for the cam and the crank, i confirmed p/n in the FSM and catalog were different on the manual between 01 and 02. So off comes the timing. i already stripped the ones i need off the blown up engine. To make retiming easy just followed the FSM instructions for setting the timing marks to the head seams, and the crank trigger mark. Used a paint pen to mark rotation and timing location on the 02 belt. the belt on the 01 was oil soaked from a cam seal that was leaking a ton of oil, so it went in the trash. can see the nutsert on the plastic on the 02 broke from just being old and brittle when taking everything apart. pulled all the timing cover parts and pulleys out and washed them all off, so that I could use the cleanest looking parts on the 01. Had to reuse all the old timing cover seals from the 02, the ones that were new and came off the blown 01 motor were all oil soaked from the metioned cam seal, the gaskets had all swollen up and started to disintigrate, you can see here how swollen they got from the oil on the left. Here you can see the reason for taking the timing all the way off, the 02 triggers are on the left and the 01 triggers are on the right. Also found that the woodruff key on the 02 engine had broken, due to the harmonic ballancer that was on the engine having a chunk of the keyway missing. replaced the key with a new one and started to reasemble, means that Ill have to use the perrin pulley till I can get a new harmonic balancer. The factory design on the tensioner with the ability to lock the pistion down is so simple but brillant too not have to fight the tensioner when putting the belt on.

Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was super-seeded by 34110VA121)

More work progressing, got the Kartboy shifter bushings and transmission crossmember bushings of the 02. Pulled the new solid transmission bushing out of the 02. Clearanced subframe, 15+ STI rack and parts going into the 01! Subframe up and bolted on! Installed the sway bar backwards when the subframe was out, had to pull it of to flip. easy mistake to make when the subrame is upsidown and out of the car. Found this gem, when pulling the rear transmission subframe brace, at first noticed that one of the bolts was missing. After pulling the brace out could see that the chassis nut on the 01 was mangled at some point and never fixed... ill have to get to this in the future. All the old crusty shifter and transsmission bushings off the 01. new Kartboy front shiter bushing. all bolted up! Starting on installing the front dampers and brakes! getting close to getting the 01 back on the ground. need to clean up the tuner lug nuts as they all have crap in the back threads and wont go on by hand. Another thing for the to do list.

same if i didnt have enough headaches in my garage!

the want for a bp is great, they look so good in black.

Updates on the progress so far, managed to borrow some 12pt sockets from a friend so that I could get the head studs loose on the blown up EJ, i just really wanted to see how bad it really was and it didnt disapoint. Quite a lot of carbon build up on the cylinders and the heads, but it does alow you to see right where the exhaust valves kissed. First view with the head pulled. If you look close you can see the exhaust valve steam on the #4 cylinder lodged itself into the head, also the valves where pretty chipped so they made some hard contact with the cylinders. Safe to say any rebuilding of this block is not worth it. Whole EJ25 is propperly mangled. I also dropped the clearanced subframe out of the green 02 with the shocks. Lots of elbow greas into to cleaning all the caked on power steering fluid and road grime off the subframe before putting it into the 01. Ive been taking the time to clean things on this go around. I also noticed in the process of removing the 01's subframe that I could feel that the hub bearings were crunchy in a few spots, its expected at 180k, so glad im just moving everything over so that i have newer parts on the 01. For reference the bearings im moving over only have 8k miles in the front and 28k in the rear. I even pulled the steering rack off to clean under it, this took way longer than I thought it would. In the end glad I did it though. You can see the clearnacing required to fit the '15 STI rack. All cleaned up and all buttoned up with the Whiteline sway bar. The bellhousing also had a lot of oil so cleaned it up. No one will see it but but its more for piece of mind so that I dont have to worry about it runing the clutch. After cleaning the transmission up I moved my newer slave cylinder and hydraulic hose over to the 01. Since the 01 has a brokend cruise control cable shield I pulled the cruise control box and cable off the 02, the cruise control cable and module all look in really good shape. Based on the pinouts in the FSM match between model years. Also since I have both subframes apart, I was hoping since the 01 was a GT Limited that it would have the larger rev C/D front brakes which are a 292x24 size rotor. After measuring and cross checking part numbers it looks like the 01 GT-L came with the 276x24 rotors that are the 00-04 non-gt/ob's. looks like the gt rotor size upgraded in 02-04. Based on the reciepts I have the rotors on the 01 are newer/lower milage than the ones on the 02 so the rotors/pads/calipers will stay on the 01. since i have 17's and dont plan to go to 15/16s anytime in the future ill have to get a set of 316x30mm front rotors/calipers and 290x18mm rotors/braket/backing plate from a 05-09 GT chassis for a budget bbk. The last step of removing parts from the front of the 02 is the JDM light pigtails, kartboy transmission and shifter bushings. I had to put the front subframe back in so that theres something to rest the transmission on while removing the rear bushings. I also took the time to grab the new fender liners as well. Pulled all the JDM Rev D pigtails back to the fuse box and depinned the connector so that i can have all the OEM wiring for the JDM harness from the fuse box to the lights. A real PITA but worth it so itll be done to OEM spec.

I have an 50 state 02, that i used Bosch Upstream O2 Sensor (p/n 17018 ) and NTK downstream O2 sensor (p/n 24598 ) that both worked great for me. irrc Bosch was the OE supplier to Subaru on the cars. I got both of mine on rock auto.