xrayspecs

sitting way lower now.

updated the parts list on the first post to have all the p/n used to build the konis. I did end up removing the helper spring from the rears so i could get a lower ride hieght. ill have to see how the car sits once the springs all settle.

FSM for the removal and replacement of the front ball joint, see the attached below.

Install of the right rear! had a set back on the left rear as the nut for the shock bolt rounded off when i put the cheater bar on it, cut it off and waiting on the dealership for a replacement, should be in this week and i can finish the rear. once thats done ill be able to see how it sits, hopefully not to low i cant get out of my own steep drive.

finally got time to install the new shocks and front extended wheel studs. Front hubs are much less work to install the longer ARP wheel studs. no need to remove anything but the caliper bracket. pounded out oem studs and used my impact to pull the new ones on. Front and rear struts both finally together torqued and ready to install. Rear Konis next to the OEM's. Front Knois next to the OEM's. part of the way through installing. setting it on the ground, so far like where they fit, have to see how the settle and adjust them from there. way lower than i expected. had to use some 2x4's so i could even get the low profile jack out from under the car.

wait which car is the one for the offer on? I got a DM from you last night saying that the silver auto one here was already headed to Co-part?

Spotted yesterday at 8am in West Covina.

the rear i know fits, not sure about the front, i know the A pillars are different between the USDM and JDM cars.

Thanks! This chassis most of the information online is either about basic maintenance or how to just swap the headlights. Its been a passion project for me and keeping the records up to date is fun to share, once i get new tires and the new dampers and springs on itll probably just get the wheels driven off of it is all! i dont think ill do anything power wise unless i move to a state where i dont have to SMOG every other year.

Ive been on that FB group for a while, they have some bonkers builds every now and then.

I haven't had time to install the koni's yet i have been a bit busy with being a dad. but once i finish installing the new struts front and back ill do a more detailed parts list and assembly pictures. right now the car is siting in the driveway not going anywhere but out for the occasional burrito run.

My legacy currently.

To create the mutted/solid sound and feeling that they have you need to add sound mat or sound deadener to the door skin on the inside. thats how they make the door closing not sound tinny/hollow when you close the door on "premium" car brands.

drove the car out to the drive for the first time in a long time to wash the dust off the car. Finished putting together the rear struts test fit together, havent had a chance to tighten them up and putting them on the car. Koni rear struts and parts, ill put a parts list together on the front page. Finished cutting up the fronts and putting the coilsleeves on the strut bodies. need to get longer springs and new top hats before i put these together.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html is the best resources ive found to double check the vin numbers are correct. i would double check any number you come up with though.

Fixed the park brakes, and while in the rear hubs installed the rear put the 3" arp wheel studs in. they required removing the whole unit bearings to get the longer studs in. but oh boy do they make putting wheels on so much easier.

As this thread is a testament to the fact that i dont know any better and that when it comes to scope creep its a free for all for me..... the next step of parts are starting to roll in and i cant help but share a bit of what i have planned to add to the ever growing list of parts. 3" extended ARP wheel studs, because i dont like how short the OEM ones are now that i have alloy wheels. Koni struts, but make it spicy, still working out the final details for the new hats and spring lengths/rates but the parts are rolling in.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631 is the best 'master' thread of subaru brake information, the 4/2 are commonly referred to as the FHI 4 pot/ 2 pot brakes. they fit all the front 5x100 hubs, the rear hubs on the legacys need an adaptor, from https://www.kartboy.com/collections/2000-2004-legacy/products/subaru-2pot-brake-adapters or someone similar.

fronts should fit just fine, the rears will take a kartboy or some other brand subaru 2 pot adaptor to fit.

Since i hadn't run the car in over a year and never disconnected the battery i think i killed the battery, even the 2amp charging couldn't bring it back. I did get new fender liners for the car got the driver side installed. the passengers side is half installed as I am missing some clips Im waiting for in the mail. I also and have some new goodies on the way that ill add here once I start the installation of them. also took the time to put all my receipts and datasheets from the parts installed together. it sure does add up fast once youve got it all in the same place.

this, ive heard/done it myself have someone watch the shop and make sure there is no line, and pull the car in HOTTTTTT and itll help.

CA, anything that is OBDII just has to pass the ecu test, no rolling road or dyno required.

not sure which rear diff you have, you would need to find the final drive on the below and match it to your rear diff ratio. some information on decoding your current transmission tag to find your Final drive, and how to see what the final drive on the transmission you are looking at. http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2173258

More work, i really hate using the plastic clips for mounting coolers on cars. made a quick bracket and put the exchanger for the power steering mount to the rad core. Finally put the crash beam on for the last time, and first assembly of the entire front clip! just need to buy a passenger side fender liner for the front end to be finished.

Also to make the fog lights independent of the hi beam switch also need to modify the harness in the cab, specifically behind the fog light switch. Fog light connector. Yellow wire needs to be spliced to the Black wire. Removed the connectors from the plug to make the splice easier. splice, heat shrink and reassemble the connector. fog lights are now fully independent of the headlights. started bolting the front back together, i need to order a passenger side fender liner and the front will go back together.