xrayspecs

I had some help, and got the front harness all tapped back up and put in place. while I was at it, I made the modifications to make the fog lights fully independent. so made the necessary modifications while the fuse box was loose and apart before putting it back together. steps as follows, use the power, yellow/green line for the back washer plug, not used on the sedans. i pulled the power right out of the plug. I split the two plugs apart so that I didnt need to make a massive jumper. tape the washer plug back up. From the relay block in the MFB, disassemble and locate the Red/yellow wire that powers the coil side on the Fog light relay. this needs to be replaced with the 12v power leg from the rear washer plug. i pulled the whole connector out and tapped it up, and inserted a new connector that fit into the fuse box, the connector from the washer unit is too large to fit and will need replacement. stuff everything back in and put it all together. also replaced the MFB cover with some more JDM spice.

thanks, your 15 sti steering rack swap thread was super helpful in performing the swap on my car.

Been a bit of work on the project since the last update. I never liked the look of the chrome on the grill as they came from the factory, so tapped it up and painted the whole grill trim black. I need to do the same with the door window trims so its all the same shade of black. Also since I had the full front harness on my JDM cut, i took my front sub-harness apart to pull the plug lines all the way to the USDM fuse box. currently in the process of taping the who sub-harness back together. the benefit to this is the JDM plugs have a heavier gauge wire than the single bulb usdm plugs. fuse rating is the same. means no need to add extra fuses or relays into the engine bay and will look factory once finished. the only wires that needed to be spliced and resealed up was the high beam trigger lines from the cab harness and the high beam signal line. Ill scan the marked up FSM's and upload them here if anyone is curious. also since one of the park brake cables broke, I am just going to replace both of them together. do it right the first time.

Getting there, getting around to fitting the headlights, and getting all the body lines on them to match up nice. need to finish up some wiring, and relocate the power steering cooler i installed with the new rack. test fit with the bumper cover. really like the white, maybe ill just wrap the whole thing white for a while.

Agreed with Boxkita above, a full catalog of change to poly bushing would net the fastest/most noticeable change to the chassis. I know i did it to my car and it completely transformed the chassis like day and night.

its been a while since an update, with family holiday and everything moving slower than id like but chipping away at it. instead of making a new harness based on the above, i am doing a bit more than I originally planed on. after comparing the jdm and usdm wiring diagrams, everything matches up on the following i am working on. I am swaping the USDM MB11/12 in connector F39 on M/B for the heavier wires from the JDM harness I have (both global and USDM FSM's show 15a fuses for 9/8 and the fuses on the jdm fusebox confirm as 15amp fuses and relays) I got lucky and my front cut included all this factory JDM wiring. Headlight LH RL (Red w/Blue stripe) OEM wire pulled to M10 on F39 M/B for hot leg. RL (Red w/Blue stripe) This is potted/factory soldered to the one above. RY (Red) High Beam signal on the HID's. B (Black) ground 4 pin connector Headlight RH YW (Blue w/White stripe) OEM wire M11 on F39 M/B for hot leg. YW (Blue w/White stripe) This is potted/factory soldered to the one above. R (Red) High Beam signal shown on the Global as Red? B (Black) ground 4 pin connector im also wiring up the fogs to be fully independent. i know this is detailed elsewhere but ill add details here for future. The front cut had the radiator and cooler with the fans on it too, so took those apart and swapped the them to my car as my fan shrouds were cracked from age/crash. old and busted. new hotness. Since in the summer ive had some higher than id like underhood temps when running the AC in standing traffic, go LA! I also swapped the secondary fan assembly for the primary fan assembly so now the primary/secondary fans have 5/5 blades over the oem 4/5. everything was a direct fit. now the fans look like this, hopefully theres a bump in CFM and the temps drop a little. The rad reservoir was newer in better shape so that got swapped as well. Overflow cap with the extra spice. on the slowest part of any project for me, fitting the body panels, refitting them and checking fits etc so the lines are correct. lots of panels on and back off. hopefully ill be done getting everything fitted up soon and can get the font end color matched.

Solidworks doesnt give a name on there solver its all native to the software. i would be intrested in a .stp of the wagon to try out. might be a little slow of the start to make sure the solutions are making sense. ill pm you,

I Just found this thread but its very relevant to my interests, its been about 8 yrs since I had to run lots of CFD on Solidworks. I do have a sw18 license with the full simulation package and am open to help. I do have lots of experience in solid molding just not as much in the simulation side. if I understand the discussion here, I could be wrong its almost 5 and I've been reading project specs all day. is the goal is to reduce flow separation and the "dead" pocket of recirculation at the back of the wagon? outside of just a general understanding of the fluid at play on these wagons? What about putting a vane/spoiler that pulls the high velocity stream off the top of the wagon and redirects it down the window to make the detachment of flow at the rear window not as drastic? I had a Old wagon that we put something like this on and it basically eliminated dust settling on the rear window on dirt roads. would be quick to pop a simple vane into the 2d model and see the impact . https://roofrack.com.au/product/rear-dust-wind-deflector-1100mm-alloy-universal/

i got a quote locally to rebuild some PSS coilovers to new condition, and was told it was more like 800-1500 depending on parts needed to do all 4.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU has the L E G A C Y [ Europe / Australia / New Zealeand / Rest of World - Legacy & Liberty (General Market)] FSMs down at the bottom of the page, look for the be/bh. The links are still good.

the link shows 404'd for me too, a page pulls up but the .pdf is no longer there once it loads.

Agreed, especially the way everyone says use OE or your car will blow up..... they have already exceeded my expectations based on reviews and I will be putting another trackmotive in to replace the one with the clunk.

I have that brand on the front of my BE, the passenger side is okay after about 20k, however the driver side has a clunk in it. and needs replacement.

Some more work today since its finally cooling back off. Got the core support separated from the cut off, the headlight supports should be larger that the ones on my chassis and allow the headlights and ballasts to fit with no needing to hammer it open. also test fit the fenders, i knew the jdm trim line wouldn't match the usdm from research I had done in sli.net, but i think i have a plan for what I'm going to do with them. if it works ill post it if not ill find a passenger side usdm fender to replace the trashed one on that side. Since i have the JDM/OEM harness from the cut off, i also stripped it apart for the pig tails and all the wires need to do the HID Ballast wiring on the car. i know there are threads that detail it but ill add it here as im doing it for another up to date reference. I also wired up in the relay and switch for the fog lights and it tested good. in the end your wires will end up wired as such.

Glad I could help and that you got it fixed.

Adjusted the park brakes and bleed the brakes, and put the new in transmission mount into the car last weekend and got it on the ground, took it around the block everything felt good, and went to park and the park brake cable on the passengers side broke. im going to replace both the drives side and passenger side here when the parts get in. Ordered one of each p/n's 26051AE06A & 26051AE07A. Ill add pictures when they get in. But since now I have all the mechanical parts fixed up and repaired it was time to swap the front clip. Stripped of the USDM Legacy L front clip and waiting on the JDM Spice I got a while back. test fit of the bumper and lights, still need to sort out all the wiring to have the correct connectors for the fogs and the hids.

sounds like a vacuum leak or plugged PCV. hvae you checked the the vacuum hoses?

didnt expect this to get here as fast as it did, but got a new transmission mount and am going to do the old fill in the gaps with 2 part urethane to really make it solid. bought a cheap knock off group N style to do this with.

Finally got the old girl back on the ground. still need to bleed the brakes a few more times to get all the air out of the lines and take her in for an alignment but shes off the jackstands! after the alignment its time for some new tires.

all new shinny rear subframe and trailing arm bits are installed and torqued to spec. she looks good, cant wait to get it on the ground and aligned. only thing left to do is put the brakes back on, and bleed the brakes. after than itll be on to the install the JDM front clip.

once the subframe was in and settled i toured to spec, will be checking it again after a couple hundred miles for any settling. upper arms have all new bushings and are in. remove the little trim piece, two 12mm fasteners to get access to the bolt to stick a torque wrench on it. Set the adjustable arms to match the OEM track and toe arm lengths to start with. gets it close to the ballpark to start for when you go in for an alignment. i used the oem arms and bolts to make sure they matched up before snugging the arms up for installation. everything installed and torqued to spec, waiting on the trailing arms and hubs. driver side trailing arm and hub install. install should be done this weekend if the heat wave doesnt get to bad.

you have to watch the shipping with Rock auto, if you buy more than one thing they split your order to go from multiple warehouses. not to mention itll probably ship over sized if your getting a whole midpipe. Plus going to a local knowledgeable muffler shop keeps them in business, and they can usually make suggestions for if you want to change the sound.

pulled the oem rack in my garage apart this afternoon, there are o-rings on the pressure and return lines from the pinon/valve housing. return is a 17mm, pressure is a 14mm and the fluid lines to the piston are 12mm tube fittings.

based on the FSM I have the pressure and return lines (17 & 18) dont show a oring (7) between the tube nuts and the pinion (22) connection. however in the power steering unit trouble shooting section at (6) the Valve housing shows note (d) which calls for replacement of the pipe or o-ring so there could be an oring there. I have one sitting on the floor of my garage i just pulled off my car, ill check spanners sizes and take pictures of whats there to confirm which it is this afternoon as long as its not 100+ in my garage tonight.

Biggest things depending on mileage, wheel bearings, all the tie rods and ball joints with just new oem or like oem parts. just those will improve the car drastically. i am in the middle right now of finishing the whole rear end to poly on mine.