xrayspecs

Getting all the closer! stripped a lot of the parts off the 02 that will be transferred over to the new car. Rad and the double main fans moved over. ill have to check the old rad off the 01 and see if the fan is yellowed this bad or not. if it isnt ill move it over so that the fans match color better. Rad and all the hoses are getting moved since i know the mileage on them. not sure what the other one has. Grabbed the power steering cooler, now just need to install it on the core, that will probably happen after the engine is in so i don't crush it leaning over the core. when moving the JDM hood over, i noticed that the liner was coming apart really bad and leaving fiberglass all over the engine bay. pulled it off and trashed it. ill have to see if one of the USDM liners i have will fit. or just leave the hood without it. can see here it absolutely fell part trying to take it off. Also popped the cam timing cover off and confirmed that the timing marks are different on the cam, will have to pull the timing belt and gears off the 02 block and put the ones from the 01 block on, I figure that this was the case as the FSM and the part #'s are different between the two years. Not sure if anyone has ever put real Borlas next to the DNA motoring knock offs and taken pictures, but since I have both in my possession right now figured why not. Pictures of the headers side by side. I dont have a scale to measure them but i would wager that the DNA's are made out of a much thinner wall tubing holding them both at the same time. DNA on the top/Borla on the bottom. Borla DNA/Ebay. Borla DNA/Ebay Borla DNA/Ebay Borla DNA/Ebay All the JDM hotness stripped off the old car now. Engine is out and ready to get the timing gears swapped now! Should have the subframes swapped this weekend and the running EJ in soon! fingers crossed.

I learned that lesson the hard way in highschool, lucky my dad caught the that the hose was wrong, but not before I had already cut everything to length. I usually have to go to two parts stores before they have the right hose in stock.

Started the process of pulling the engine on the 02. came across the following on the fuel hoses. looks like I'll have to buy some fuel hoses to the parts list I need. since the fuel lines on the 01 were old and cracked. moved the hood over, the 01 USDM hood was so heavy taking it off compared to the JDM hood. everything bolted up nice and easy. at this pace in another week should be that much closer!

popped the valve covers off of the engine to see how bad the damage on the number 4 cylinder was, cant even see the valve stem retainers. so its really all lost in there somewhere, and low and behold the #3 valve had also left the chat! between that and the scoring on the rocker followers, this block and all the parts aren't good for anything but a core at this point. I don't have a 12 point socket so I wont be taking the heads off this, dont even know what to do with it other than turn it into a boat anchor. Scoring on the #1 exhaust roller, the #2 looked like this too. more damage. close up of the broken rocker arm, looks more like a improper or unchecked valve lash at this point. but thats as far as ill go to the failure mode. picture of the weeping rear main. made an absolute mess of the bellhosing on the transmission. Stripping all the USDM bits off that will be swapped for the JDM parts. got the front Drags off, these will be up for sale too, cleaned them up the best i could, they all have heavy use. Pulled out the front subframe, since in my head this is the fastest solution. pulled off the whiteline bar, as that will be the only thing that stays on the car. ill have to mic the brakes and see what rotors have the most meat on them and use those. will need to get new endlinks though they are blooown out. i have a plan for that though. front shocks out, these are on the for sell pile, the oem springs and shocks from the 02/green one i held onto and will go back on it so i can move it around. Complete car and the one everything is going onto! got them both in the garage. I'll make sure the next house is a 3 car, or that the driveway is flat so its usable space. cant wait to have this all done.

Finally sat down and went though and put together the build list for parts that will make the migration to the white 01. and oh boy its a list. I think by moving the subframes chassis to chassis it should make it easier that removing and reinstalling everything. Chassis/Suspension: Entire rear subframe. Timken Rear unit bearings (p/n 512183 ) Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A ) Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 ) Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 ) Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 ) Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 ) Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 ) Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 ) Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 ) Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 ) Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 ) ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) Subaru of America Bolt Flange shock rear lower (p/n 901000177 ) Subaru of America Washer shock rear lower (p/n 900335056 ) Subaru of America Nut shock rear lower (p/n 20550AA010 ) Rear Shocks Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007 Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1 Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0 Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400 Entire front subframe Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) moved to STI rack for outers. Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 ) Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 ) Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 ) Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 ) Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 ) Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 ) SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 ) Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 ) Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 ) Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 ) SKP new equipment power steering pump (p/n sk215254 ) Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 ) Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 ) Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 ) Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 ) Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 ) ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) Cusco Racing front strut tower brace (p/n 680 540 A) decide if using this unit or the white unbranded one that is on the car. Koni Yellows assemblies: Front Struts. Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts. Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924 Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007 Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0 Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100 Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250 Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450 Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147. Engine: Interstate Green Top MT-35. Rebuilt heads and short block Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 ) PCV Valve replaced with OEM unit (p/n 1181080W00 ) PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS OEM Idle Air Control Valve (p/n 22650AA192, INTERMOTOR AC519 ) Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R ) OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 ) WIX Air filter (p/n 42728 ) Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B ) STP Air filter replacement (p/n SA9113 ) IMC exhaust flange gasket (p/n 224 4901 333 ) Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL ) Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 ) Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 ) Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 ) Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 ) NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 ) Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T ) Drivetrain: Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 ) Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 ) Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urathane (p/n 9563 ) Interior: LED replacement dome light bulb OEM WIX cabin filters replaced (p/n 72880AE080 ) Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD ) Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 ) Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan Wink 5 panel mirror. (p/n) Exterior: DRL’s disabled Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Supertones JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails UNK Front fender lines (p/n SU1248104 , SU1249104 ) the ones are the car are blown out from rub. JDM Smoked tails with clear corners. Wheels/Tires: Enkei RPF1 17x8 5x100 +45. VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17. Parts so far on the for sale list so far, sure to grow, this will all eventually make its way to a dedicated for sale listing. DNA Motoring/Ebay UEL Headers Perrin Lightweight crank pully Drag DR-31 wheels with Firestone staggered? setup tires (205/225) 16" OEM snowflakes (still on the fence about keeping) Tein S-Tech Springs KYB gr2 Struts Rear Tophat Spacers Core dressed long block, will probably part this out if people need items from it, based on the damage to the #4 and #3 cylinders the block dropped 2 exhaust valves, and broke the #3 rocker arm, that the whole thing is pretty much only good for someone that needs a ej core the delta cams i can almost guarantee are scored after looking at the lifter followers. i did take the crank and cam trigger/reluctor wheels off for the engine swap as the part numbers from 02/01 are different and will need them. OEM GT/Outback healights no broken tabs, light hazing. Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel based on paperwork have about 15k miles on them. might hold onto depending on if i look at my clutch on the engine coming out and see that my flywheel is in bad shape... tbd. Ebay white no name strutbar, if i decide to keep the cusco unit i have, otherwise ill leave it on. depends on if the custco hits the JDM hood. i havent fit checked it yet. OEM ELH and full OEM cat back for anyone looking to go back to stock. whole Manual 02 BE chassis, not worth much with no motor, but would be willing to make a deal to someone that needs all the parts to do a H6 auto to manual swap. or i might just hold onto it and get myself a H6 Bh and do that myself eventually.... lots of work to do on this and hope to have it all done by month end. amazing how fast you get when its your 5th time taking it all apart.

Got the last few bolts on the engine loose to get the whole thing free, looks like the starter is the original Denso unit, ill be replacing that with the newer starter I have when this all goes back together. But in taking the headers off to I found the problem with the "fresh rebuilt" engine that was in the car, when I dropped the header it sounded like there was pebbles in the header. I found bits and pieces of exhaust valves in the head when I dumped it out. ill have to pull the whole exhaust now to make sure to get any other pieces of valve out of them since the previous owner told me he drove it home while it was loosing power. looks like the whole block and heads are trash now. No chance at saving the aftermarket "hot" cams that were installed in the heads. Number 3 cylinder has both exhaust valves, but they look wetter than they should for a fresh rebuild. looked at the #4 cylinder found the missing exhaust valve, looks like the head was either rebuild wrong, the car was over revved/money shifted, or oil starved doing donuts. Dropped valves do match up with the complaints that the owner was telling me about it having a consistent misfire after he rebuilt it. BUT WAIT THERES MORE!!!! On closer inspection it dropped both #4 exhaust valves!!!! knowing that the #4 cylinder made best friends with the exhaust valves i dont think ill tear the motor apart there is not going to be much i can sell from piece parts off it. Subaru in its natural habitat. everything ready to come out! Heart removed! something has a massive leak, either the transmission snout or the rear main on the block, ill have to pull the clutch off to see what might need to be fixed before it all goes back together. while under the car i noticed the rebuilt rack was leaking fluids from both passenger and drivers sides, both inner tierod boots were full of fluid. good thing i have a brand new +15 STI rack to use! now to play shuffle in the garage to make space for the second BE so that i can pull the engine on the flat surface of the garage floor. only major thing i dislike about my house is the drive is at a steep incline.

Spotted this sunday in West Covina. its crazy how big the "midsize" Imprezas have gotten when parked next to the old "fullsize" legacy's.

Well couldn't wait forever, last picture of the car as I received it. The white jdm spats I've been holding onto will eventually make there way onto this car. you can see that the JDM white is more brilliant white, while the USDM white is a yellower/creamier white here. Last time that it'll be have the USDM headlights, hood, and bumper. Doing my best to keep this cream puff dent and scratch free. Pinky's out. for a 20 year old car the engine bay has been kept pretty clean. but there are a few things that will need to be added to my pull list from the green chassis. based on the once over, the throttle cable for the cruise control, the cruise control module possibly. Rad and fans removed to make it easier to slip the motor out. AC comp disconnected from the engine, plan to leave the system connected so that I dont have to vacuum and recharge. power steering lines also disconnected and removed. the Ebay/DNA uel headers look to be in good shape, all disconnected. they will eventually make there way too a for sell thread once i have sense of all the parts im going to keep/sell. the was a massive oil leak on the drivers side header that was running out. if i get a wild hair and feel like it ill tear this engine apart and see what the failure mode was. some other things i notice in and around the car.

Thats the plan, to move the JDM parts over in addition to all the suspension work parts.

Thanks, it is in great condition thanks to it previous owner! Cant wait to have it running again.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/el-chupacabra-x-rays-2002-l-sedan-5mt-266376p3.html some information on how i swamped the jdm hid lights into my chassis. the short is you can follow the wiring on the diagram i posted. you can pm me if you have questions.

So big chapter here ending for the build thread, i think in all ease of use I'm going to keep this singular thread going and change the top post maybe to reflect the changes that have been made. The ol girl after 7 years and 60k miles is going to go into retirement. but not without giving up her heart and parts to a new chassis. A month back I got a DM from another member here Jacobpockros about his car having a dead heart and wanting to know what parts I wanted off his chassis. Knowing that mine has at least 4 small and 1 large crash on the title and that no mater what you do or how its repaired uncashed cars will always be worth more. See his build thread for his car here https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jacobpockross-2001-legacy-gt-limited-sedan-5-speed-thread-205137.html I told him I wasnt interested in a part out but wanted the whole car. After a little back and forth and a visit down to confirm the car looked as good in person as it did in pictures I made an offer and bought it from him. Finally got down today to pick her up and get her back to my place.... So after a year and a half of major work on my chassis. Im going to take it all back apart to swap everything over to this newer chassis. It doesnt make a lot of sense but passion projects never doo. first up will be to pull both motors and do a throttle body and cam reluctor wheel swap so that I can use the ej out of the 02 in this 01. from there its subframes and parts! hopefully it goes as smooth as I have it in my head. now for some pictures of the new chapter. Picking the car up! Made the trip home and now to unload into the garage. Minty clean interior, need to deep clean the carpet but other than that this thing is a time capsule. Just needs a new shift boot. looks good in the garage waiting for some upgrades. Two BE's sitting pretty for now. Time for major work for them both.

i need to find a B4 oem option lip the oem "fangs" for the bumper now! Big news on this one coming soon... making room in the garage for something, hope to be able to post an update soon. Back in the garage, cause well big things happening.

You know your not wrong..... But I don't think my purchasing agent would approve the purchase requisition right now.

damn forbidden JDM fruit, wont be legal for another 6 years. maybe at that point i can find a s401.

The JDM headlights i got have a bit of fog to them, spend a bit of time cleaning them up. might have to look for a second set online and buy better condition headlights in the future. Before after improvement but could be better. also rolled the fenders so that i have some clearance on the outside of the tires. never had any problems doing it this way just takes a long time and a lot of patience. New tires mounted up on the RPF1's a small 3~5mm spacer may be in my future, there is a small amount of rub on the inside fenders after checking the fitment. but plus side the coil springs on the shocks I built clear the inside of the tire.

What boxkita is saying! it adds up stupid faster than anyone will publicly admit too, I can attest to my own car projects. i added up my receipts this summer form my massive parts list for my street BE and it was more than i care to publicly admit too. the biggest thing when you build stuff to race that increases cost that no one really considers are unexpected parts breaking and anything that rotates becomes a consumable that has its life measured in laps/hours not miles. those costs and labor add up quickly. ive seen lots of killer "track" or "rally" builds on multiple forums that get crazy built like this and once it comes time to race they only go race once or twice because of the cost of consumables quickly turns the whole cost of the build into six figures. then it all disappears. hopefully we can see a video of this thing making some passes.

this should be over in the for sales categories if its just a for sale post.

The whole time i was trying to make the adjustment i was thinking this is a perfect application for a 3d printer.

I have a sedan with Koni Yellow, and an aftermarket rear strut brace. trying to get in to adjust the rebound on the konis is a royal pain. i cut down a koni adjuster so that i could get into the notch on the strut bar. Has anyone made or gotten longer adjusters? or another solution for this? anything is better than grabbing the cut down adjuster with my plyers and hoping i make the right and left match.

Modified one of the two adjusters for the konis that I have. with the rear strut bar its a royal pita to adjust the rear rebound setting. managed to do it with some plyers and the cut down adjuster. need to find a better solution for this. its a big difference between full firm and full soft, so Id like to be able to actually find an adjustment with a proper knob. Also got a new green top battery and installed it. need to roll the fenders now but its fun on the short rips around the block.

New rubber is in now, cant wait to get them mounted! stayed the same size for now, not sure how much wider i can get without going up to 9" wide wheels. VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17.

Frozen rear lower driver side shock bolt came in from the dealership. replacing the bolt, washer and nut as the bolt had to be cut off. all four shocks are now installed, and the springs have started to settle, might raise them up a tad in a week or two. Nice and shinny new oem hardware!

yeah you need to have a pinch bolt in there, the shoulder on the pinch bolt secures the balljoint to keep the ball joint form pulling out. id try and chase the threads with a tap first.