Brighton96

Yeah the ports are on the drivers side. They are just threaded bungs that come plugged when you get it. That way they can say the rad is for both manual and auto cars. I was going to wait to install my rad until I do the manual swap and then just use the cooling channel for engine oil or just not use it at all.

The 1st gen rad is a little different sized, I forget exactly, I want to say it's like an inch or so wider so it won't fit our chassis'. I have a generic Chinese dual core rad currently with unbranded fans (neither installed yet.) I think down the line I will install reputable brand fans but other than that the quality seems fine.The ones on eBay are all absurdly expensive right now, so hold off on getting one. I paid like $230 for mine and the same listing is currently sitting at $800. Here's the link if you want to keep an eye on it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/132618187252

Usually it's toe out that causes that when it comes to alignment. Could also be unevenly worn tires or really old tires, a worn out strut top hat and a bunch of other things. Really hard to say without driving it. Jack up the front of the car and do the tire wiggle test to see if you have play in both front wheels as well as see when the tires were made. Older than 2013 and I'd be leaning towards compromised tires.

The lateral arms that bolt the bottom of the hub to the center diff subframe thing. If you crawl under the car, look above the diff to where the lateral arms bolt into the subframe, you'll see a little plate that has markings on it, those are the bolts that adjust it.

Completed! It's finally back together after 5 months of down time. Still have to order another set of headlights since the drivers side is damaged and am holding out for another scooped hood. Also got the coilovers adjusted so the car sits even and took it around the block and immediately remembered why I like the car. Lastly, I have a DMV appointment in June to get antique plates! No more failing inspections for old car stuff. Maybe in a few months I'll take it back off the road to tackle the rust THEN maybe worry about the manual swap stuff. Only time will tell...

By second gen I meant the 95-99 cars which yours falls under. If you are already committed to doing calipers as well as rotors and pads I would say upgrade to the GT stuff. It'll be dual piston calipers and a little larger rotor which is worth the money imo. However if you are still running 14s for now, I would just do pad and rotors and call it a day. Unless the calipers are in horrific condition I wouldn't just arbitrarily replace them.

I don't know if the postal would change anything but I also don't know what level trim it's equal with (Brighton I would guess.) The brakes sometimes change within the same year and also in some cases build month. Check the build date of your car in the drivers door sill to make sure you are buying the right ones. They all bolt up the same, so as long as the ones you are buying are for 95-99 legacy/outbacks they will bolt to the hubs, the only real issue is rim clearance. I am running 99 GT front brakes on my 96 Brighton without issue and whilst using 16 in Subaru wheels. As long as you are replacing all of the components (pads, calipers and rotors) you can use any 2nd gen parts, if you want to only do pads and/or rotors then you have to match it as close as possible to build date.

That's normal, nothing to worry about.

The LSi has been sent off to it's death. I still have a bunch of parts from it so feel free to ask if you need something.

You don't have to drop the headliner to access them, once you remove the rear window trim you will have all the access you need.

The plastic trim around the rearmost windows needs to be removed to access the wiring. It's all loomed up so you would have to remove some of the loom to find the right colors to access. For example, the two wires running to the center garnish are brown and yellow, the corner wires are brown and red. You can figure brown is either common ground or common power. Find those 3 wires in the c pillar, use a multi meter to determine what is what and then then splice the yellow into the red to get power to the center lights. These colors are arbitrary, I don't know the actual colors

Oh I think I understand. I wonder if Aus has a rule about brake lights being on a panel that opens. US has a rule like that about turn signals not being allowed on panels that open such as tailgates/hatches. If you want them to operate as brake lights/running lights. Your best bet would be to track the colors of the wires back to the C pillar and tap them into the wiring for the corner lights.

Oh I see, I was thinking there was an extra bulb, not an extra pin. I would just plug it in and go on your way. I would guess the JDM cars have an option to use the reverse lights as rear fogs. Either way, it should work when you plug it in, or you can use the wiring from the AUD center section. If you want to do some experimenting, you can put a single spade connector into the male side of your AUD plug and ground it to see what turns on/off on the JDM light. And then if it does something you like, you can run that to an auxiliary switch.

Rebuilding isn't normally worth while for a stock engine simply because it need to be linear honed (?) I forget the term but basically each half of the engine needs to be put in a jig and bolted in as if the head was installed and doing so distorts the block as it does when assembled. Skipping this step in the honing process will kill the engine prematurely, you'd be paying extra for a machine shop who knows how to do that. If I were you, I'd pull the engine and have it inspected at a machine shop to determine whether it's the heads or block causing the leak, if its the head then just have them flattened and continue on with the reseal.

Could you possibly send a pic of the back of it so we can see what you're looking at? It should be pretty easy to add another bulb. I would think it's be easiest to use the non JDM harness and then splice in another socket onto whichever light you want to trigger it.

Subarus are known to rattle so not uncommon. The heatshields around the exhaust are usually the cause so I'd either look to tighten them up or remove them entirely.

The white donor car is getting sent off to the junkyard tomorrow so I won't have any big parts left however I will be keeping a good amount of smaller items so feel free to ask if I have something.

Close to Done Both donor fenders had damage in the bottom corner where they collect dirt, so they got stripped back, treated with rust killer and then painted Fedex white (only the bottom corners got painted that is.) Got them installed along with the hood, all 3 got colors sanded (1k-2.5k wet sand) and then compounded and polished. Headlights, fogs and grill in place so I can at least drive it while I finish up body working the bumper. In the gaps between waiting paint to cure, I installed the Walboro 255 that's been sitting in my parts bin for like 5+ years. It had the subaru install kit so there was zero fuss with installing it which was a refreshing change of pace. Other than that, the plan is to body work the spare door trims, front and rear bumper and spoiler and then have them professionally resprayed since those are the ugliest bits of the car, aside from the rust.

I would say no, I have had both 2nd and 3rd gens, and they have very different body lines so I'd be surprised if they worked

Coming Back To Life As stated above, she's slowly coming back to life and I see the light at the end of the tunnel. Not considering the future rust repairs haha. If anyone needs the closest matching white to our 20+ year old faded white paint, it's FedEx fleet white :/ The top of the core support has been welded in, the metal under it has been straightened and I filled in all unnecessary holes and body worked them so you'll never know they were there A few hours of sanding, primer and Fedex white later It may not look like much but I shaved a few unnecessary brackets and relocated nearly all of the headlight, foglight and horn wiring up under the fender to clean up the engine bay. There are other mods that will be done soon ish but while I had the car apart I figured now was the ideal time to install these triangulation braces courtesy of Kein on Ebay, they are marked as being for a 3rd gen but they bolt right up. It's nearly done, got a few other parts off at powdercoating so uglier pieces are installed right now. The overflow tank/washer fluid tank is by Weapon R (Model 826-124-101) and isn't specifically for our cars but bolts right in, aside from losing rear washer pump, minor price to pay for shiney things.

I have one I was going to send off to the junkyard with my donor car. You can have it if you want it.

I'm pretty sure you have to just uncouple it from the air filter box. I don't recall it being removable from the section of tube it's mounted on.

Rebuild Process So begins the process of putting the car back together. Got all the parts I need, now just a matter of actually doing it. All the new metal has been treated for rust and I shaved all the unnecessary holes. Will paint the core support to match once I get it welded in and the shaved holes bodyworked. Will have more pics once it's back together

If the gear ratios are the same then you should just be able to use the original rear diff

You could just unplug the coil and also remove the fuel injector/pump fuse. Don't want to wash the cylinders with fuel by accident. Subarus don't have an oil pressure gauge so you will just have to guess how many rotations is enough, I'd say 6-12 rotations should do it.