Brighton96

If it's part of the filler neck then you'll have to replace it, if it's the flange around the neck then you can replace just that part. Those filler necks are known to rust out and leak so aftermarket parts are available

Depends on the parts needed. I get stuff from Subarupartsdepot (which is just the website for a VW/Sube Dealer in MD) Otherwise I just use rock auto or amazon and stick with DENSO since they make a lot of factory parts.

Look under the oil fill cap for an engine build date, that'll help track down parts. Also if it has an EGR valve on the intake then it was probably in an automatic car. It sounds like a coil only because when they start to fail they act out randomly and or fail to work once they heat up.

It's typical for subarus to idle weirdly during warm up, I usually tap the gas to get it to come out of the warm up cycle. As far as the gearing goes, it's hard to tell without being there to drive the car but I'd just do a trans and diff fluid change and see if anything changes.

I don't know of any videos that exist but they are easy to remove. The A's are just held in with clips. Just carefully pry with your fingers starting from the top and pop the clips free (there are 3 or 4) and then it's sort of wedged between the dash and body so it'll require a little wiggling. The B's will require a socket to remove the seat belt mount but other than that you shouldn't need any tools. For the B's you may need to slightly dislodge the lower portion of the B's since they overlap the upper portion, but same procedure, just carefully pry away with your fingers and there are only 4 or 5 pins holding it in. BTW this is entirely from memory and it's been a while since I have done it haha.

There MIGHT be plans for a procharger in the future haha. But yeah the car will be set up for fun, not so much a dedicated autocross/track car.

NICE! Our cars aren't powerful but they are fairly light and can be fun as long as you take out all the factory sponginess. I plan to autocross mine but that's after the manual swap and RWD conversion, so I'd end up competing with BRZs or equivalent.

I think they are only available as a used unit nowadays.

What are you asking for it or care to link me it?

You're going to get the window shoppers no matter where you list it unfortunately. Facebook marketplace has kind of taken the place of CL since CL charges to list cars now. I don't think there are any rules to list on this site except to attach the pictures via the site host instead of using an external picture host.

I really doubt ants could have caused that. 90% of electrical issues are caused by bad grounds (I made up that number) But I'd go get yourself a can of electrical cleaner and some scotchbrite and spend an hour or so disconnecting every single electrical connector and ground wire you can find. Disconnect and spray out the connectors and scrub the grounds. And while you are doing this, have the battery out of the car on charge. If your issue still persists, then start looking to replace components as CELS determine. Also replace your positive battery clamp.

I really don't think it'll make that much difference, maybe 10% increase or less.

Good to hear! I'd have offered if I wasn't across the country :/

I'd look under the car to see if you squished the exhaust pipe going over a speed bump or something as well. But my vote is for cats needing replacing. (you can just gut the second one if you aren't in CA)

I'd see if you can borrow a gopro and mount it under the car and then film driving around under the circumstances that it makes the noise. Then go back and watch the video and see if you can see or hear it happen.

By right cam do you mean passenger side? And is yours a phase 1 or phase 2 2.2? Cause I have a spare cam if you want it

The compressor could just be worn out

Yeah it wouldn't hurt to let it idle and spray something flammable around the engine bay to see if the idle increases. It's a 20 year old car with 20 year old rubber, so it's pretty safe to assume the rubber lines are dry and causing vacuum leaks.

Is it USDM or something else?

They can be either mechanical/traditional lifters or HLAs. Just pull the valve cover to inspect them.

If it has HLAs, I've had them fail and tap really badly. It doesn't sound like rod knock but it is an intermittent tapping/misfiring sort of thing.

I was using the haynes one, the torque spec may very with different manuals, as long as you torqued them enough to crush the washer then it'll be fine.

You can get the 1995-1999 GT 2 pot calipers and 10.9in rotors which will all bolt up exactly the same and will work better. Test fit the pads before you leave the parts store though, there are 3 different types.

Repair manual says 15 ft-lbs. I usually go until I feel the crush washer stop crushing, which is usually only 1/2-3/4 turn past hand tight.

The mark on the block you need to line up is on the crank position sensor. You need to line up the crank sprocket mark with the mark on the block to be in time. That is NOT TDC. Subaru doesn't use TDC, it uses mid stroke or something like that, so if the engine is at TDC, it'd make sense that the timing marks don't line up. Also take the rubber seal off the block to see the timing mark.