Brighton96

I'm not sure how you can test it but worst case pick one up at a junkyard and see if it works

I honestly have no idea, but I have a parts car I can pull all the locks from and send them to you if you want. I would think it's the lock actuator rather than the lock itself though.

It sucks to do but not impossible, the lines and fittings are easily sourced but you'll have to bend the lines yourself. The biggest pain is getting the fittings out of the junction box where they protrude from the floor without destroying them, that way the new lines can be installed into the junction box. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart. Not a lot of space and dealing with rusty fragile lines. Expect 2-5 days to swap depending on your patience level. Took me a week to do them on my buddys 4th gen because I kept getting mad and quitting. Both rear lines run in the same little channel and in my case, just trying to work around them caused the non leaking line (drivers side) to start leaking too and that one runs over the gas tank. I ended up cutting the end off each side and leaving the portion of it above the tank and then ran a new line up over the diff cradle.

Yep got all that, would you come get them or would I have to ship them?

Anxiety Update The 99 GT Donor is nearly stripped and I was initially planning to swap my suspension onto it so that I can install the coilovers on the good car as well as get the WRX struts off the donor. But that didn't go to plan thanks to rust. Ended up spending a few hours digging into the rust in the wheel well (thankfully only bad on one side) and treat it with rust killer while I work on a game plan to fix it permanently. (probably by buying generic wheel tubs and cutting them up.) On the plus side, got the rear coilovers installed, and I was going to installed the SS brake lines but remembered they are for rear disks, and I haven't swapped those from the donor yet. In summary not a lot was done but a lot of anxiety was had.

The fender liners are pretty messed up, someone along the line let them come disconnected from the car and get chewed up by the wheels. Both fenders are decent though, a few small dings by not bad. Also I can ship stuff

It's donating is manual bits and a bunch of other stuff to my 96 and then at some point the 5mt is going to be converted to RWD.

Hey All! I am parting out a 99 GT, if you want anything let me know! It's on the marketplace too. UPDATE 99 GT has been stripped and scrapped (have lots of the parts though) Just got 95 LSI that's still mostly complete

It's finally come time to fully strip and send this car to scrap. It's a 99 Legacy GT Manual with DOHC 2.5 and 190k on it. It was a running and driving car up until I took it off the road. Update The 99 GT has been stripped and sent to scrap but I still have a ton of parts off it The white 95 LSi will be sent off to scrap on 5/3/21 but still have a lot of parts off it.

Try to find another computer at the junkyard (ideally within 3 months of when your car was built.) In my experience, lots of random codes/symptoms like that tells me the ECU is dying. Also some cars didn't come with EGRs, so if you get a non EGR ECU then it won't even look for that data and then you can bypass it (if you wanted that is.)

You will have to do some wiring, the JDM ones have a dedicated high and low beam bulb but most of the other OEM ones use just one bulb for high/low. Depending on your set up, you'll probably have to buy two 9004 male plugs to plug into the stock harness and then split it into two to run both JDM bulbs.

It will be worth it, it's all just metal after all and no one is expecting concourse quality. Still stressful though

I have anxiety on your behalf

I'm 99% sure they're identical units. When I was messing with doing the LEDs in mine, the only real difference I recall is the AC button being a different color.

Then yeah go with the 6MT, an extra gear can't hurt but keep in mind you'll pay substantially more for a 6MT because they are more sought after. Also it's a larger case so be prepared to "massage" the trans tunnel.

Look around for a local mobile tire guy to see if they offer wheel well measuring, that way you can get the exact specs you need, BUT you'll have to do your suspension mods first to get the right numbers. As far as transmission goes, don't buy into the 6MT or nothing mentality, YES the 6mt is stouter but the 5mt only gets a bad rep from idiots abusing their cars and blaming the machine for their faults, if you are staying under 350hp then a 5mt is fine.

I've heard it's just a matter of what they're engineered to do. I think BR is the street one. I wouldn't buy any of the ones for dedicated racing applications because it'll suck to daily drive more than likely. If you are thinking, drive it and MAYBE take it on the track then go with BRs, if you are thinking full on racecar that won't be on the street again, do one of the others.

Nope, the rear struts on the 3rd gen mount with the single bolt on the control arm like a shock does, whereas the 2nd gen mounts like traditional struts where it has 2 bolts that mount to the hub. I ordered coilovers for an 02 WRX and they'll fit. These are what I ordered https://www.truhartusa.com/product_p/th-s802.htm

The car valuing sites lose accuracy after the cars more than 20 years old. Mines supposedly worth like $400 according to them haha. Depending on your local market I'd say $1900-2800

They should be the same, but did you separate the torque converter from either trans? Because they are tricky to get to seat fully.

Yeeeeepppp, I already temporarily patched the inner wheel well liner where it attaches to the "frame" and then the obvious external rust. Luckily mine doesn't SEEM to have structural rust, but I'm selling a motorcycle today which will fund a professionally installing the new quarter panel skins.

No Motivation Update In the search to find other car people to motivate myself with, I went to 3 cars and coffees back to back today. When I got back I decided to finally install the perrin overflow can (location will change once rad is installed), got the 1st gen subaru console thing installed and attempted to install the momo steering wheel. The wheel didn't work because the plug on the clock spring isn't correct (good thing I have a parts car.) Also my coilovers are on order, ended up going with TruHart since a buddy of mine is a vendor and got a good deal on them. Rust repair and body mods are next I think. I parked next to another moneypit Here is the coolant overflow tank installed as well as the center console thing above the radio. I found the console thing in a 1st gen at the junkyard and robbed it, now I don't have to worry about my stuff falling out of it when I do some sick launches Here is the ebay all aluminum 2 core rad. Going to wait to install it for now and may upgrade to proper fans (mishimoto most likely) if the cheap ebay fans give me any issues.

Good thing you have the space for a build of that magnitude, it'll be tedious but worth it in the end. Also, ALL JDM importers say their engines have 50-60k on them (that's the typical estimate, they have no idea in actuality) but do your due- diligence to inspect the engine to make sure it's healthy.

I wouldn't even say it's a Subaru specific thing, I've had a bunch of Subarus, including one with 190k that uses a quart every 2000 miles or so, but then another with 230k that never consumed a noticeable amount. I'm not even going to mention the mini I had that burned a quart of oil every 500 miles haha. I think a lot of it comes down to maintenance, engine break in and overall how it's driven.

Small Update (also I'm not dead) Might as well take advantage of spare scrap vinyl and spare time due to quarantine. I spoke to a body shop buy who has agreed to install my new quarter panels but in the meantime I thought it'd be funny to waste the spare vinyl. I call it Schrödinger's oxidation. Also: I've been struggling with motivation while also accumulating parts and plans. Coil-overs, full aluminum rad, rad shroud and fans are on order, bodyshop is lined up and donor car is back in my possession to donate some JDM bits, rear disk brakes and manual trans. ALSO ALSO: Does anyone see a point for me to go back through my hundreds of pics and post them properly to get rid of the photobucket watermark? I have all the pictures just dunno if it's worth the effort.