Brighton96

I can pull the abs unit out of my 95 lsi if you want it

The stock balancer has a rubber isolater that separates the center core from the outer rim, they are know to dry out and seperate in time. Normally the bolt that holds it in is torqued to 100+ ft lbs (I've broken many tools removing them haha) If yours was able to work it's way loose I can only figure the rubber isolater is failing and causing extra vibration to allow the bolt to walk out. I would recommend removing the old balancer, checking for damage to the crank and then replace the balancer with either a new OEM style replacement or the better but more expensive alternative is to get a solid aluminum pulley such as the one offered by grimmspeed that no longer has the rubber isolater

After you had a chance to clean the grounds, reset the ecu by leaving the battery disconnected for 10+ mins and see if it continues. I'm leaning towards a dirty sensor moreso than a faulty part but you never know. Iirc there is a sensor on each wheel so you could take a look at those for visible damage as well.

Sounds like a caliper is seizing up.

I would unbolt and clean all the ground wires you can find in the engine bay first. These cars are really not grounded well, it'd also help to clean the battery terminals too. It's best to try the easy stuff before buying parts hoping to solve the issue.

Update The last of the parts I needed have been sourced so it's only a matter of time until the cars ready to get taken apart and fixed! The last piece of the puzzle was a pre face lift grill that wasn't beat to hell. Stock form Remove the grill portion, cut all the tabs off and remove black translucent vinyl that surrounds the grill insert. More work to be done in regard to cleaning up the cuts and getting the vinyl residue off but looking good already

Yeah it's the older style pump and it's a 95 LSi

I'm not sure if the 2.2 uses the same lines as the 2.5 but I do have the PS line.

That seems pretty straightforward. I've been waiting to do the same thing. I have a 5MT sitting in storage waiting to do the full RWD conversion but who knows when that'll happen haha.

It honestly wouldn't surprise me if they just used compression fittings for did an ISO or Bubble flare like brake lines use. Those flares are perfect for pressurized systems so I doubt they'd use something else.

I don't know if those are sold individually, you might have to hand make them. I assume brake line would work for that as long as it's the same size and what not.

The silver one didn't and I didn't bother testing the white one because the antenna is broken off.

You might have to get a power probe to start testing circuits if you aren't able to get power to come on with the "key"

Bump! Got another donor

Got an 95 LSI getting parted out now too. It's a 2.2 Auto with a ton of miles.

Small Progress Not a whole lot to report, been doing other projects because I don't really want to mess with the car. I did however get nearly all the parts I need to put it back together, the last thing I want is a white scooped hood but the smooth hood will be fine for now. Here are the two bumpers, top one is stock, bottom on is my damaged modified one. I got the stock bumper modified and filled in all the unused holes/slots with a plastic welder. After this both the front and rear bumper will get body worked and will be good as new!

The oring that seals the reservoir to the pump or the bolt that holds them together also has a little seal on it.

I don't think the 25D came with both style tensioners, the 25D would have come originally with the style tensioner you bought, while the 2.2 uses the barrel style tensioner. The bracket that the tensioner mounts to is removable so in theory you can use either tensioner, just that both style tensioner won't mount to either tensioner bracket. Hopefully that makes sense.

Just so other people in the future might be able to see this verses the answer I PM'd. Try to source a used lock cylinder and key from a junkyard or something, they are easily removable from the steering column. If the car has an OEM security system, wouldn't hurt to reset the car by leaving the battery disconnected for 15+ mins

It's going to be hard to find out where all the wires go that it attaches to, but if the system isn't used anymore, remove it as best as you can, or at minimum remove any control units for it. I had a similar situation with two cars I've had, cheapo security system failed or became enabled and caused a no start issue. The control boxes can usually just get unplugged and that's enough to test the theory (assuming you can actually find the control box.)

Is there an aftermarket security system or remote start installed? Seems like something is deliberately immobilizing it.

I've got the sunroof assembly out of my donor 99 GT, if you get me pics of your motor we can see if it matches up to mine, in which case I'll cannibalize any parts you need.

Can you manually open/close it? If so then I'd assume it's a fried motor.

They were just threaded bungs on mine, so I found 90 degree threaded barb fittings and put them in it.

The one you linked is identical to the one I bought on ebay but branded under a different name. Not a big deal but either way it's a direct swap and in my inspection, seems perfectly fine. This is the one I bought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-CORE-Aluminum-Radiator-Fan-Shroud-For-Subaru-Legacy-Brighton-GT-L-LS-95-99/132618187252?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649