WRX USA

No issues with highway cruising RPM but I also have the longer gearing in the SpecB 6MT. I have done no trimming, rolling or cutting. About 1/2”-1” lower than stock. I had the version 7 STi wheels on before and I think the tolerance is even tighter. The Enkeis seem to have plenty of clearance and my Brembos look as good as when I put them on.

Offset is 45 and there are no rubbing issues. I wish I had the 18x8.5’s so I could run a little bit wider tire.

Yes, 18”x8” in gunmetal

It does look way better with the JDM front end. I have an extra set of 08-09 USDM headlights that I still need to list and sell.

On an 08-09 USDM Outback anything on the front clip of a D-F JDM Outback won’t swap over without converting the entire front end to JDM (fenders, hood, bumper, headlights, grille). I bought a front bumper thinking I could easily swap to the 05-09 aluminum hood and found out the hard way that it wasn’t that easy.

LOL I was reading your previous posts thinking “hey I did that”. As you figured out, you just need the drill out the plastic rivets and remove the screws. I think I used epoxy to put them back together (in the places where the plastic rivets were gone).

I use Google Chrome as a browser, for its translation, and search directly on Yahoo Japan Auctions. You can do broad searches with “BL” or “BP” as a search word and then choose the appropriate categories to focus your search. On the page of any item you find on YJA there is a link for Buyee at the top of the page.

That was always what kept me from doing this upgrade.

IAG has a thorough break in process too: https://www.iagperformance.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/documents/Engine-After-Sale-Shipping-Doc.pdf

I thought the same thing and then I remembered mine has some heat shield on it right under the oil pan.

I found out online that I didn’t pass the smog test that I took last month and thus couldn’t register. In hindsight it was obvious I was going to fail because I don’t have a battery tender on the Outback and the battery died requiring me to recharge it before I took it to the testing station. Of course none of the sensors were ready because the station is less than a mile from my house. Today I took it on a drive to try and get all sensors to ready. It was a lot more fun than I remember. I forgot how much torque it has and since its dry I have great traction and I think I toasted the clutch a little (instead of spinning the tires, like it normally does in the wet). I ran the tank to nearly empty to get the ethanol out so that while it sits around I’m not concerned about the ethanol gumming up the fueling system. This is my new Vizsla puppy, Bob, riding shotgun today. My license plate is “VIZ WAG” since I nearly always have a Vizsla with me when I drive this wagon (and truly any of my cars). It was Bob’s great uncle, Austin, before.

The charging network is the most critical part of selling an EV. Tesla is way ahead of other manufacturers with their Supercharger network. I drove the 85D from Portland down to San Diego and then over to Phoenix/Sedona at the beginning of the year and I wasn’t concerned about range at all. Like you said, the navigation will route out where you will need to stop and charge along the way, and estimate your charging times. Since I typically travel with my dog, stopping to charge every couple of hours and get out take a walk is something I would have done anyways. It was also nice that I didn’t have to pay for any charging the entire trip. I have my eye on Rivian as well, and a reservation on a R1T truck. It would be great if they could work with Tesla to use their charging network. I’m hoping they can start deliveries at the end of next year.

Simple, do you drive your car out of its street parking or is it broken and stuck there? If you do, you can charge where you work/eat/shop. If that’s not a solution maybe a mobile high speed charging company could fill the gap, like the gas delivery companies (https://filld.com/).

I liken the comparison of the Subaru and Tesla more to comparing a cassette player with a CD player. One of the last of the analog being replaced with one of the first of the digital (DAT being a hybrid). Just like there are purists who swear by vinyl there will be people that never want to switch to electric but eventually everyone will.

Yes, it is dual motor and does the quarter mile in the mid 10’s and 0-60 in 2.4 seconds. The range is 345 miles. I agree with your friend, once you have a good electric vehicle like a Tesla it’s hard to go back to a gas/ICE car. A couple of times I’ve been in my OBXT and thought “is that in the car?” looked around in the interior and then thought “maybe the frunk?” and then I remember there isn’t one.

After quite some time I drove my OBXT today. It was a short drive to get the DEQ (smog) testing taken care of so that I can reregister it for another two years. Most likely it will move over in my garage when I sell my WRX so that I can make room for my Tesla. I sold my 2015 Model S 85D and purchased a 2019 Model S Performance with Ludicrous Mode (this option was free when I ordered it because I owned the 2015, and it is now included with all Model S Performance’s). I’ve had the new Model S for 3 weeks and I have 2,000 miles on it and I still haven’t fully got on it. All I can say is that after driving an all electric car, the OBXT feels lethargic.

Yes, any facelifted JDM/EDM Legacy fender will work. No USDM Legacy will work and JDM/USDM/EDM Outback will have the flares and won’t look/work right.

That’s K2Gear. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v626345012 As far as I know, C West has the third brake light.

I imported two sets of mufflers, Corazon and Prodrive. The Corazon’s need to be rebuilt because all of the baffling material is rusted. They are quad tips. If you’re interested send me a PM. Shipping from Japan is pretty brutal because of their inherent size and weight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KS6FPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PoIRCbC12CBNN

Nice to see those 5” Nameless mufflers with their third owner!

Ok, I’m at 454whp/442wtq on a Mustang dyno and my limiting factor was my injectors. I need to go from ID1000’s to ID1300’s. This is with a GS TMIC.

I’m just curious, what do you think the “limit of the GS TMIC” is?

I think it is actually slightly less than with the prop.

Redline hood struts will resolve that “issue”.