seanyb505

I'm at 900-1000ft altitude here in South Carolina. I run a vf52 with aem pump and stock everything else fueling, obviously tuned. With a stock tune, the vf52 will push too much air for stock injectors. I'd quickly guess that if we could run stock tunes with the vf52 just by upping the injector, more people would do that as a short cut. Since you're swapping in the stock downpipe, I wonder if it would be worth it to swap back on the stock turbo. A few more bolts, and you're right there anyway? Having said all that, Dave will probably give you a more definitive answer.

Closeout... End of the line for a popular new in box solution?

For all those unhappy with brake feel, make sure you're making these judgements after effectively bleeding your brakes. I know I need to do that now, and I hate the feel. I remember what it was like when they were bled really well and I miss that. For my aggressive punk street driving, I actually enjoyed my brake pedal on well bled stock everything except pads and rotors. Also, as alluded to above, most of this is at best pedal feel, and at worst cosmetic. If you can lock up your tires, the braking system isn't the weak link, it's your tires. Having said that, I think our cars' mods are more driven by owners' personal preferences as opposed to outright speed. Otherwise we'd have a different platform to achieve better performance. Feel free to brembo and brace all the things!

That's weird. Are there left and right sides? Are those listed for multiple wrx platforms?

It is pretty good looking as far as sedans go.

Cincinnati if I'm remembering correctly? Mods might want to move thread to the 4th gen section, or the wtb if that's the thread purpose. Nope not Ohio lol. Did you used to be there?

I'd post mine for sale but it's an 05. So you know, 100% different to your 06 compared to a automatic 2.5i sedan with cigarette burns in the cloth seats.

Ughhhhhhhhh so sorry man. As a father of two daughters under 5, I have zero desire for that day to come any sooner.

Yeah that's the area I was thinking. When you print are you printing the whole grill or just the honeycomb? If just a honeycomb insert then that lip won't matter.

Nice progress! Any chance you would smooth the transition from the very front to the lip that runs the perimeter of the surround?

Some fun sunset light after washing the wagon this weekend. Starting to think a headlight polish is in my short term future.

Can you perform a leak down test? And did you switch injectors around?

Sounds like a good plan on the injector/coil swap. Only swap one piece at a time, and know you're looking for the problem to show up elsewhere not be eliminated.

Number one reason is the amount of money I'd need to spend to have any sort of enjoyable driving experience. If I sell it or it gets totalled, I'm firmly down in plain commuter car territory without adding another car payment. But I suppose if money wasn't a constricting factor, I'd probably still keep it. I had a vision when I bought the car 11 years ago and I haven't finished building it to my ultimate goal yet. If I had cash for a car payment, it would just go to parts lol. It's pretty oxy moronic, but I like the idea of a rorty, obnoxious sleeper. Most sleeper sport sedans are pretty plain, and I suppose that's a huge part of the appeal. Then there's things like the widebody Charger, Gulia gtam, etc. My wagon won't ever be as fast as those, but I smirk when I walk up to a station wagon that's been hit with the "faster than normal" stick. And there's a huge boost knowing I made it that way in my own garage.

Sunroof is giving me woes. About 3 years ago it stopped closing after being slow for a long time. Once I closed it I left it that way until this weekend. The shade catches have broken and the rods rattle like crazy. I wanted to see about reattaching by epoxy or tape. It's obviously kinda tight up there, and since I was parked inside I tried to open the sunroof. Only the passenger side of the front glass opened. Driver side is completely stuck. I thought maybe activating it a few times might loosen it, but no go. Didn't want to break it. Any suggestions? I'd rather have a permanently closed sunroof than a permanent hole in the roof.

I meant if we had this conversation 15 years ago as opposed to running 15yo tires lol. The dws are pretty old aren't they? I feel like it was that line that was on my car when I bought it in 2012. The Michelin as4s rollout used wrxs at nola. Are there faster tires? Sure. But if you would have done that track event 15 years ago with whatever was hot back then you wouldn't get out of the car and think, "eh that's not really a true performance tire." The cross climate is definitely in that class of "no.. that's not really a good trackable tire.."

By this standard I'd say uhp summer tires from 15 years ago are not true performance tires. The latest all seasons outpace the old stuff.

Not sure how I feel. The steering wheel is carbon fiber vinyl with star stickers stuck on that. Oh well could be worse. I'll work on the tailgate one when it's consistently warmer outside and not below the recommended temp range while adhesive cures.

A couple from times past: My profile pic:

Lol! This is the bracket guy. The plastic built-in attachment gave up the ghost so long ago. I can't remember when or where I learned of this bracket, but it's one of those things you jump on knowing it'll help you in the long run.

Ding ding! If there were awards on the Internet you would get one today. I tightened the lower hose clamps to güttentite (they were not at the beginning) and cleaned everything up, then idled up to temp on jacks. 25 minutes of garage idling including fan activation and the temp gauge hasn't gone over normal. I did notice the radiator side initially gave up a few drops as it approached normal. My suspicion is over the last year or so, it's probably dripped enough to dry off, but made the coolant level low enough to overheat. Once it overheated it probably expelled more coolant, leading the about 2/3rds a gallon of coolant loss. After topping off the water Thursday morning, leakage has slowed significantly. Like a single drop from the tray after driving 30 minutes home at varied speeds. Hooray no timing belt shenanigans!

I've got an 05 intake with JDM tgvs and 2011 wrx D25 heads. I think it's all pretty interchangeable. Edit: looks like you discovered some shape differences

A friend of mine recently picked up a Volvo, so I ordered some prancingmoose.com shield stickers as a Christmas gift. While poking around the site I saw he now has a few Subaru emblem vinyls. Ordered carbon fiber with pink stars just for fun. Still haven't got under the car to locate the coolant leak. I did take the driver side timing cover off because it was easy. Nothing terribly yucky in there. I'll wait until I get underneath to breathe a sigh of relief. The fsm water pump instructions include removing the cam gears.

Thanks. Oem with pin on top would be a 1:1 replacement

Popped some kind of coolant leak this morning. Gauge went from a little high to higher and not cooling off once moving. Pulled over and ordered a tow. I've added about half a gallon of water since waiting, so I know I was wasn't completely empty. I'd say once I parked, I probably only left a few ounces max on the ground. Seems to be coming from the thermostat area and wetting the splash shield just in that spot. A few months ago I noticed the engine would run at not full temp for a while before actually reaching normal. I'm hoping this is pointing to a thermostat funk rather than the water pump. I'd love to not deal with the timing belt.