seanyb505

You could probably run a second alternator with the new room for activities.

Yeah I feel all the big box auto stores are really the same. But for some reason I gravitate toward advance. Must be a south-east region thing. They were my go-to in Florida as well.

Fedex returned the driveshaft without attempting delivery. Never even got to South Carolina. Oh well. Ordered same one from advanced auto.

Whichever one JP's parts thread pointed to. One had a two piece with rebuildable u joints, the other place had a one piece and much pricier.

What's the date code on those super sports?

I lolled

How much of that do you think was from replacing the driveshaft?

Thanks. On the way home I got the trademark vibration. Dorman driveshaft 936955 ordered from Rock auto. The driveshaft shop one wasn't that much more expensive, but they only offered two week shipping. $130 more for 1 week shipping. The rock auto one will be here tomorrow. I'm pretty sure there's way more play than 5mm in my center bearing. I looked in the FSM to see what spec was. It just says "check for any abnormal bearing free play." No indication of what abnormal is. Thx guys.

I did that shifter linkage recently enough, but unfortunately I'm still on the 5spd. I can't vouch for 6spd options. I used the TIC solid link to replace the stock rubber one, which had deteriorated to nothing. Whatever solution you end up with, a set of punches is going to help you remove the one currently on the car.

As far as I know it's original There's significant movement from what I remember of shaking crap around a few weeks ago.

This weekend I had a friend drive while I listened from the back seat. Noise appears to be equal on both sides, and coming from just in front of the rear tires. When moved up to the passenger seat, I was able able to tell I'd moved away from the sound. Still no marks/signs of contact or smoking guns. I'm thinking start with reading up on failing driveshaft center bearing?

South Carolina sees you, and waves hello

New development. The noise happens while slowing down in gear or in neutral. Clutch in or out doesn't make a difference. Going to get it on stilts and hit stuff with a hammer in the next few days.

Really wondering if I've got something similar going on. Need to get the tires off tonight and check.

Two well thought out replies compared to my malarkey. This swap is far beyond bolt ons and ins. Rumbly can attest to that, and his was best case scenario.

Starting to think it's no further forward than the middle of the car. Possibly rear. I was driving with windows up (rare for me) and it started to sound like the noise was in the rear. I know a rear bearing is likely needed, so I may try to have a gander while doing that.

Yeah... people struggle to get the ej20 running right in an turbo car. These people asking the turbo into non turbo and manual into auto cars... that's the shell game. Buy an entire donor vehicle and swap everything into your shell. Or drive the donor car. A few have stuck the ej20 into north America cars, but that ecu already kinda expects boost. The NA car doesn't. Best to buy either a turbo car, or find a totalled one with a bad fender bender. Then swap absolutely every piece of body wiring into your car. You'll also need the donor keys. And the previous owner's kidneys. At the end of the day Subaru built a bunch of turbo Subarus. They didn't really think people would buy the base models and upgrade.

Still unsure what's going on here, but I'm starting to be more sure it's not rpm related. During the morning commute I did some quick rowing through gears once the noise started. Throttle off, clutch in = no noise. Back on throttle, clutch out = noise, but sounds the exact same in gears 2-5, then back through 4 and 3 until traffic mandates it was time to start slowing down. Because of how quickly I was shifting, I didn't pick up much speed to determine how closely related to vehicle speed it is. I'd say the whole thing happened between 25-30mph. And it continues to be random as to if the noise will appear or not in the load range that it happens in.

Noise is between 15-18ish seconds in the video. Just checked my actuator rod. I wouldn't call it loose. Maybe a small amount of play, but nothing concerning I don't think.

Couple other posts from the what did you do thread: Sept 4 - Sept 15 - This noise is coming back more routinely, but still intermittent. Idling away or very light throttle, no noise. Noise is starting to be more present in normal acceleration, about 2.5-3k rpms and lasts as long as I keep load the same. As soon as I back out the noise stops. Heavy load maybe noise, but can't hear over exhaust. Will not make noise in neutral while revving the engine. It's not really temperature, rpm, or speed dependent. It sounds like something rotating while hitting a heat shield or similar thin metal. Going to pull the down pipe tomorrow, but open to other ideas. Then on checking the turbo shaft on Sept 17 I ruled that out.

Finally managed to capture the noise on camera. After sticking my head out of the window a few times, it sounds like it's coming from the middle of the car. In the video (taken by opening the door and sticking the phone down by the rocker), the first "click" is the start of the noise happening, and I use light throttle load to really induce it. I'm in 3rd gear going up a hill, no more than 25mph. Thoughts have been drivetrain related. Driveshaft didn't show marks of making contact with anything. It's clearly something spinning, just not sure what. It's spinning quickly, and doesn't really seem to follow rpm or vehicle speed. Maybe throw out bearing? But the classic idle squeal isn't present at all. Only during acceleration. I've also thought about wheel bearings being the source as they generally seem loud at high speed and squeally coasting to a stop (coasting squeal is likely rear brakes close to replacing). Though I don't think wheel bearings would create this kind of noise as they get closer to failing. Other thought is driveshaft bearing, but I'd expect it to be much more speed related. Finally, I wonder if it's emitting from inside the transmission. Really don't want to go down that path though. 20230922_081052.mp4

One güdentite is better than any amount of ugga-uggas

Usually the manual conversion just isn't worth the trouble to get it right. Not saying it can't be done, but it's probably more trouble than it's worth. Especially compared with just buying a manual legacy and changing other things about that one. We see all sorts of builds on the forums. Almost none of them are manual swaps.

Self clearancing parts ftw I usually recommend people let rod bearings clearance themselves. Better fit that way lol

Interior goalz. My noise isn't likely to turbo. Finally got downpipe off and the shaft feels tight as it did 60k miles ago.