ripstik

probably because it comes with the same crap tires the 5G LGT came with (except narrower and with less side wall), has half the drive wheels, and a little over 2/3 the weight. should be easily fixed with a little more tire, there is a kid in my town with a worked up one and he hooks up alright.

YOU DAH MAN STU! just one question, do you know if they are going to try to match the BPV location?

the same 85k till the electronics start to bug out.

Looks more like knock off Brembos than reconditioned Brembos. even Brembos that are trashed and need to be reconditioned cost more than that.

just do it, it takes all of 5 minutes.

I have a 22mm whiteline adjustable w/ whiteline bushings and braces and it's set to soft ( supposedly similar to a 21mm) and i love it. compared to stock you can certainly feel a bump more if you hit it with one wheel, but it's well worth it for the increased cornering confidence and to get the car to break in the rear wheels so you can power out rather than just pushing at any tiny loss of traction. as far as what I'd recommend, i wouldn't go below 20mm but literally anything would be better than stock, if you're planning on doing autocross or anyother performance driving whiteline does make a 20mm adjustable that could give you the best of both worlds 19 on the streets 21 in the sheets.

must be a 13+ thing. I've had my battery disconnected plenty of times and my NAV has never asked for a pin, just runs through the full boot up process

ring a ding ding, just a tune can cause a huge power swing. you get most of it in the form of brutal down low torque, but for 80 and below driving it is a huge improvement

hmmmm, I always figured they used some kind of switch to know when the window was fully up or fully down to block either the up or down function.

What do you mean by syncing the windows?

it probably won't be too loud, the resonator does a lot of the work.

at 95k of hard driven miles, 75K of them tuned and I consume about 1 qt per 5k mile change running castrol full syn 5w-30. I've been doing blackstone labs tests every change for the last 2 years, and they say i could go further per change, not that I'm interested. i'd personally consider 2 quarts a little high, might be worth sending off for a test to see if the oil is degrading as what really matters is that you engine has oil and that that oil is still in good enough condition to provide protection. what type of oil do you use? how many miles on the car?

with no clicking from the solenoid I'd say that's your issue, either its worn out or has a bad connection, or isn't receiving the signal from the ignition switch. every time I've had starters fail in the past there was a slow degradation of start up speed, and by the end they would engage and just barely get the engine going. even after the starter on my Xterra got too weak to start the car it would still give a nice a positive click when you attempted to start it.... could always be a starter connection, making sure all contacts are tight and clean is where i'd start.

wow it looks great in that orange

COOL! where you get it?

I had a similar problem with my gas door release, doused it with maf cleaner because its plastic and pretty hard to get apart (at least when its rusted together like mine) let it dry and tiny spray of teflon lubricant and its been good. if you have any spring pressure at all this should fix the handle not returning. can you confirm this wasn't happening before you replaced the latch? it could have been the issue the whole time.

it is true that the peak HP on these engines is more like crest of a soft hill HP, but the real issue with simulated shifts is not taking advantage of the best gear ratio you possibly could at any moment in time.

did you ever get this installed? I'd like to put in an AOS before i put on my new intercooler

I was wondering the same thing

this is why it was banned in f1, peak boost combined with the best possible drive ratio at all times.... that and cuz everyone hated the way they sound.

go for it! cars don't age the way they used to, 2 years is nothing. the GT is much more fun than the i... like twice as fun.

shifts typically mean from one gear to another and there is a loss of engagement between them. CVT's (continuously variable transmissions) don't do this, they VARy their ratios, and should do this CONTINUOUSLY. in my mind this means the "shift" from one ratio to another isn't a shift a all but simply a quick varying of drive ratios... of course this is all semantics but saying that subaru forces "drive ratios to vary quickly to simulate the way that traditionally geared transmissions shifts between predetermined drive ratios" just doesn't role off the tongue as nice as "shifts between pretend gears" to my knowledge pretend shifts are not only during aggressive acceleration. when i had a forester as a loaner it always pretended to have gears. ... you got a problem guy?

^^^^^ BUMP!!! big news up here people ^^^^^^

the CVT pretends to have gears by "shifting" between preselected ratios so that the pleebs, that don't know a damn thing about cars, don't think it feels funny.... CVT's were banned from F1 because they were too damn fast and they are negating this, it's only, advantage.