ripstik

it takes ME less time, but i really struggle to put them in through the wheel well because i have fat sausage hands and a bad wrist. if you have a pop-it remover it goes much smoother and there will be no wondering if you got the bulb oriented properly which makes a much bigger difference in light pattern than i ever would have thought. also using brighter bulbs will shorten their life even if the package says otherwise

did you put them in yourself? and if so did you take off the bumper or do it blind through the wheel well? the dealer installed a set of bulbs in my car once and they burned out in about 6 months likely because the install is so difficult that they touched the bulbs since there was a decent burn mark on the glass when i pulled them out.

seems fine on my end

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NICE! My brother has the previous Gen with a 6mt and it has the most satisfying shifter feel even at 150k

I probably would have went that route if it was available.

lets face it, if they don't offer auto options the Normies won't buy them and auto enthusiasts just don't make up a large enough portion of their buyers for Subaru to cater to. the LGT would have probably made a full model run if there was an auto option and likely with production number closer to 2010 before they realized not too many people want a manual mid sized sedan that is over 30K.

i second that, just make sure it gets a decent blow out before you pull the spark plugs and you should be fine.

yea i found the ej35 in there. its quad over head cammed, twin turbo, makes 35 psi stock and only blows 3 headgaskets a week.

that is definitely steep. you don't need a new shifter to replace the bushing, many of us, including myself, have replace the squishy stock on with a perrin brass bushing for the WRX. it took me maybe an hour all together doing it slowly laying on my back with crappy tools. if you have some time/ jackstands/floor jack get underneath it and take a look for yourself, if the bushing is torn or just excessively soft throw this bad boy (http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru-wrx/drivetrain/shifter-bushings/perrin-brass-shifter-bushing-kit-2015-wrx) in and see if its better, worse comes to worst you have the upgraded bushing that will improve feel once your other issues are solved

yes but it would pretty slight. that said it wouldn't be a simple turn it on its side and sit on procedure more of a bolt both sides to a plate and draw them together while applying some heat. with such a small difference tho you may be able to get away with slotting some holes and doing some careful porting to both the head and manifold since there is clearly a good amount of extra space between the ID of the gasket and the ID of the pipe

if i remember correctly, we had an insider divulge production numbers

Thanks, this really is one of the nicest most well organized build threads I've seen

where did you find the cusco braces? i went looking for them after you posted this in the "what did you do to your 5th gen today" thread but couldn't find them actually for sale.

Yes to all of these things! honestly if its down to squashing the thing down by a 1/4" and making a few holes into slots i'd think that it should work pretty well. did you do a comparison of where the 2 hold the turbo in relation to where it bolts to the heads?

how could i check that? if I take it out should i be able to blow thru it in one direction but not the other?

no i haven't, could it be losing that much oil through the PCV? i figured most of it would end up back in the engine, all though i guess its goes to the intake. I'll pull the hose off of it tonight. i guess if it's full of oil I'll just replace it and see what happens.

Her car only has 60k on it, I don't think that hers is included in the warranty block replacements because it's a 2012 but I'm going to go check on that again.

thanks S2, you the dude. on another note, today i topped up the oil AGAIN in, not mine **collective sigh of relief** but, my GF's 3.6R OB. I'm going to change the oil/filter in it tomorrow morning and throw in 5w-40 Castrol to see if i can get this thing to burn less than 2q per 5000 miles. since the last change i've put in 2.5q and I don't even know if there's 4k on it yet. anyone have any good reasons why i should stick with 5w-30? and if so any ideas to quell consumption.

Hey S2 you have any update on this? sorry i don't have facebook so I'm not able to keep track of it there. I had hopes that i could get this before getting a tune this fall but i totally understand that reverse engineering can be a real bitch especially when going from a more flexible material to a stiffer less forgiving one.

You'll be missed BB. good luck with the new whip!!

wow, thanks for laying all that out Humble. the K2gear one looks pretty damn good

interesting i wonder if it adjusts where the sensor determines the grab point is as the clutch wears and that grab point gets further from the floor.

just go FMIC and get a hood from any 2.5i problem solved

the new TRD Pro's are too expensive. I haven't driven that exact truck but i've driven my friends 2016 that had the TRD suspension but not the rear locker and liked it for what is was, which is a truck. it definitely is by no means quick but felt like how a real truck feels. so faar you guys are doing a poor job... but the truck itself did a great job of convincing me not to get it. here's the list of shit to be replaced now that it's reached the service center Wipers Clutch slave cylinder 4 Tires balanced Positive cable end Mudflap clips 6 brake lines for Vermont State Inpsection Parking brake cables Front brake pads, rotors, calipers Replace oil and air filters this thing must be a rusty mess underneath.