ripstik

come on you're reducing the the s209 a little bit here. with the different turbo/intake, injectors, fuel pump and IC sprayer on the s209 the thing is ready to cranked up from the factory. that's not to mention the handling upgrades, wider track, wider tires, upgraded bilsteins and legitimate aero.... the thing is going to be a back road monster and is just waiting for someone to put ARP head studs in, turn the thing to 11 and own fools left and right.

Excuse me sir, you haven't lived till you've driven a Subaru in the snow with a fresh set of snows... its the only reason i own the car in the first place.... Ullr bless us with the fluffy white stuff and i will be forever in your debt.

i stand by my Michelin XI3's they are about 150/tire these days for 215/55/17. and i just got a set for my GF's outback for 124/tire but the size is escaping me, i know they are taller and narrower than the stock tire tho because the tech mounting them WOULD NOT SHUT UP ABOUT IT. yes its a slightly different size, no its not going to matter, yes i realize they are taller than the original tire, no that's not going to take up the monster truck sized gap above the wheel, yes its narrower than the original balloon fitment tire, no its not going to fall of the rim, no you don't know what an aspect ratio is, no i can't explain myself any clearer... rant complete

basically the damper slows the engagement of the clutch. so depending on how fast you come off the clutch the perceived engagement point changes, the faster you move the higher it feels. the delete will make you more susceptible to hurting the trans if you doing clutch side stepping launches (which the damper actually works pretty well for) but you'll greatly reduce your chances of hurting the trans in most other driving conditions, especially hard upshifts and high RPM down shifts, at least in my opinion because it makes the clutch so much more predictable.

OEM or mevotech?....... never mind i remembered how to read... are these the ones you used? i don't see any listed for the 5th gen on their site https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-rk622031 https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-rk622030

dude... damper delete is life... get on it.

possibly since they essentially just use the housings and those are relatively difficult to mess up(at least to outer dimensions that BNR is concerned with since they re profile the inner dimensions), but that one doesn't show a drain pan that we would need so that would have to be gotten from somewhere

Yeah I looked at it, maybe it's differences between different runs of the midpipe but if you look at the picture I dug up you can see the flange isn't welded onto the midpipe and even if it was it's not flush with the end so the flat gasket won't work. It may have worked if the flat gasket was designed to be on the stock side, but even if that was the case it wouldn't be viable for me because salt. I'm going to do the original nameless solution and seat an oem donut into a 3" donut. It'll cost about $40. I wish I could do it with one gasket as my expertise in sealing says that's more reliable but it's a huge hassle finding these things with more than just the ID dimension listed. Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

nameless actually just sent this to me, but he thinks that with their DP you can't use the flat gasket and would instead have to use it in between the stock donut and the 3" donut which means i would need to get both anyway, so why not just skip the adapter and do it as nameless originally intended. and I'm pretty sure they are right, from my memory the pipe just ends with a bell and has a flange slipped over it rather then having a flange welded to the bell like the adapter would require to use the flat gasket. so either i find a donut with dimensions i like or i get both and slam it in as originally intended.

does anyone else burn thru donut gaskets like they are going out of style? I'm about to have to replace the donut gasket between my nameless catback (roughly 3" ID) and the stock down pipe for the 3rd time (if you include the original swap). thinking a probably need to change something up, i will probably go for something with a 2.75" or 2.625" ID, but its surprisingly hard to find them with all of their dimensions listed. one thats 2.5" on the ID and... IDK 4" on the OD would likely be perfect but i have a feeling ill need to settle for something in between EDIT:... just spoke with nameless, they said their donut is meant to have the stock one seated in it. seems strange to me as someone who is wholey against reusing gaskets but i guess it would work if its cranked down on hard enough.... i think I'm still going to look for something in between the 2 that will work rather than buying 2 donuts. dimensions as given by nameless are 3.25"outer and 3" inner diameter on the tapered side, 3.75" outer and 3" inner on the flat side and .75" thickness front to back

currently trying to train my gf to use the temp settings and stop plying with the dang mode(or hit auto before she shuts it down) so that when she uses her remote starter it doesn't take so long to warm up her car. why she feels the need to have hot air blasted in her face is beyond me.

may have to pick one of these up as well... "have to" being a loosely used term

you can track knock sum for each cylinder. but cyl 4 is scary to watch.

i use a headlamp at times, but i don't really like it. i did have a flashlight near me somewhere but felt around for a minute and couldn't find it. i use hook lights under the hood and have florescent overhead lights to light up the work benches.... its the benchES that are part of my problem, there were 2 when i moved in, one is up against the back wall and i see no reason to change, the other is on the side, and i already moved it a bit to fit in my tool box. didn't want to get rid of it because it has this weird/cool construction where its actually a bunch of pieces of hardwood clamped together by some long bolts, and it has a wood vice on it... which is my only vice. my other issue is that i have 2 motorcycles in there also so my big idea is raised storage for my dirt bike that i can put my road bike under.

are there not knock sensors on the other cylinders?... and if not how does my ap read them?

changing spark plugs yesterday in the garage, door closed heater on because it was all of 10 degrees out, and the power went out... i never realized just how crowded my garage is until i had to get out of it with 0 light. i damn near killed myself and may have literally stumbled on to my next garage project.

Talking about wheels when it comes to ground clearance is a little silly. you should be talking about your tire sizes https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=245&aspect=45&diameter=18&wheelwidth=8&offset=40&width2=215&aspect2=65&wheel_size=16&wheel_width=7&offset2=38 I assumed widths and offsets but that won't make a difference in ride height. small drop in ride height less than 3/16". and 215/65/16 tires are a pretty cheap size too.

are you planning on running large sidewall tires on the 18's

didn't do anything to my car but i put a submission in for the free CRYTUNE e-tune for my car https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/free-e-tune-givaway-happy-holidays-277016.html?p=5858445#post5858445 go ahead and check it out if you're whip needs some extra whip this christmas HA!

i ended up using a 3/4" deep socket over the back of the spark plug socket do get most of the work done, but had to get it started it with a mid sized extension and finished it with a 3/8" bit for my impact driver and the ole finger spin, of course there was a fair amount of experimenting to come up with that sequence. i torqued it down with that socket as well with a 3/8-1/4 adapter making up the gap to my torque wrench... yes i torqued them to spec. 15.5 lbft or 186 inlb if anyone was wondering.. the coil gets torqued to 11.8 lb ft

on the topic of comfortable compliant suspensions, many people on here swear by koni inserts in the front and struts in the rear. coupled with stock springs it will be comparably comfortable but much more compliant in the turns( all info seen was gleaned from other's experiences) i plan to go with 1453s's and 1055s w/ 13-14 springs (slightly stiffer than 10-12) to maintain ride height and and give a little bit better handling, on top of getting rid of worn out shock.

the coil pack itself i got out quite easily with a little tip from the service manual to turn it 180 degrees as removing it... ccw on the way out and cw on the way in(which they left out) makes it glide in quite nicely and it would have been nice if they mentioned you should remove the clips with a small flat head i was real nervous about prying the tab out and breaking it but it came off with very little force. but the spark plug was a bitch and i had to change extensions/sockets quite a few times and get pretty creative with adapters

last night i changed my cylinder 4 coil pack and plug and got my baby back at full boost...but not without getting cuts and bruises all over my hands. its pretty darn tight down there, i certainly could have had a couple more different sized extensions to help the job along. i need to patent extensions that have a removal button on the shank, would have saved me a bunch of time.

ditto, that thing is gorgeous and the text even looks like it matches the stock style.