ripstik

possibly, it does kick to a blank screen with the reverse lines on it though so i have a feeling it's the camera. ill check out that thread though, thanks!

pulled out my Nav last night to see if there were any issues with the wiring to my rear camera that would be causing my backup camera to not work but didn't find anything. has anyone else had back up camera issues? was really hoping not to spend $150 on the camera but it looks like that the next thing for me to check... GF's outback is starting to have similar issues so i guess I'll be pulling apart some trunks/tailgates soon

hey S2, you ever get that charge pipe built?

IIII""mmm BAAACCCKK!! i recently purchased for my LGT a back up vehicle. thats right folks the LGT is officially my fun car that doesn't need to be back together every morning to get me to work. i got a 2017 chevy colorado with a diesel and i'm loving it, very quick to 25 with 375 lbft and that definitely helps it move my boat around too.... anybody heard anything about the charge pipe my old buddy S2 was trying to get made?

I want it for the LSD so i can do hood rat things with my friends.

Please let us know all about it if you go to the R180. that is among my ultimate goals for the car.

YIKES! you feeling anything funny? this has me wanting to short my my diff fluid change interval just to check mine.

thanks, guess i'll just have to give her the ole scrape and paint, hopefully its in decent enough shape. the freaking thing costs almost the same as an LCA with 2 bushings and a balljoint

does anyone know if part 22 of this diagram is part of the moog strut mount http://https//dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/c4a4de809e58e8764cf218eddaa136f3/61ff96043ae5d8821997e992f8e46e67.png ... or will i have to reuse my rusty one cause they are so damn expensive

man she looks pretty fresh for 106k, no cracks in the seat or anything. mine is 2 years and 7k newer and its starting to get some pretty bad cracks in the driver seat on the get out side. I may get some vinyl repair tape for it but know its gonna bother me to see even if it helps preserve the seat.

well yea, obviously a bad custom tune would be worse than the OTS cobb tune, mine was safe on the OTS stage 1 tune but was fat as hell which has it's own concerns even if knock isn't one of them.

I'd argue that a good custom tune is safer than the cobb OTS tune as long as that custom tune is made to run similar boost/power levels simply because it is tailored to that specific engine rather than made to cover a bunch of engines with various possible parts.

I don't think that there is an electronic way for the car become 2 wheel drive, that could only happen mechanically. what makes you think its only driving 2 wheels?

If you're not used to boxers they do have a bit more engine noise than most other engines... but have you checked the oil level or know when it was last changed?

Go with the stock mid pipe off of a 3.6R or gt. they REALLY cut down on the noise. of course that's assuming that the STI midpipe is a little more free flowing. you have any pictures of your setup.

oil lines look alright, they haven't seen the car in quite some time, they did the quote off what i i told them i wanted replaced which was "all coolant lines/fittings/gaskets" then again god knows what got them up to that number, they were also saying they drop the manifold with the turbo typically so... needless to say I'm not going to have them do the job at that price. if when they have the car for the parking brake/airbag recalls they look at it and lower their quote than maybe. the repair manager did say they have never done one before so they really had no idea.

I don't think so either I've looked at it before and if memory serves it seems like most of them can be replaced by just disconnecting and snaking the lines out and back in. i wish captain Ned was still around for some knowledge on the subject, i think he's the only person on here who has had this done.

thanks for the tips they are much appreciated, I'll likely be using a file to get a nice finish to exacting dimensions but cutting it high and sloppy to get the guts out of the way is a good idea. for springs I'll be getting 2013 3.6R springs, I still pretend the legacy is Subaru's preferred rally vehicle and i drive it as such on some pretty shitty roads so stock ride height is a must. i even like to gain some additional height in the winter with bigger tires. in other news I finally got a date for my brake/airbag recall to be done nov 13th. while i was at it i had them quote me new coolant lines for the turbo and they quoted me $1400-$1800 dollars!!!! does that seem high to everyone? they talked about having to drop the turbo and the exhaust. I've looked up the parts and even if i get real crazy with replacing everything that gets touched its not more than $700. are they really setting aside $70-$1100 for labor wouldn't that be 7-11 hrs?

thanks, i guess I'll be going with KYB's as much as i want to go with the stiffer group N mounts for the clout and handling performance the standard stiffness KYB will likely be more compliant and just as good most of the time since i will likely be set to full soft on the koni's most of the time. yea, Subaru calls them spring helpers but they sure look like bump stops. I'm going to say they are probably fine since they sit underneath the dust boot. I'll keep you in mind about the hardware but I'll probably just go all new since I'm likely going to need a bunch of other stuff. when i put the winter set on I'll do some investigating.

I just got a set of 215/55R17 Nokian R3's for winter and it's opened the flood gates a bit. also put koni cut a strut and rear struts (8610-1453S & 8010-1055S) on order and mevotech front lower control arms(CMS801114 & CMS801115) and kyb excel g's (339223 & 339222) who thinks i need strut mounts? they are surprisingly expensive at $80 a pop for genuine Subaru ones, anyone know of good alternatives? do group N mounts exists for the 5th Gen? also spring helpers and dust boots are 22 a piece? dust boots will likely be fine but helpers may be smart. also who thinks the rust belt has rendered all my hardware useless? probably will come out to another $50 or so tho i haven't really tried to add it all up yet.

I think the actual idea is for the thing to leak if you push past 14 PSI and make a funny noise to get you to take it to the dealership, because i run 17 with no leaks by just removing it.

It is weird, it may be down to the headlight housing just holding too much heat. those are the only bulbs I've changed on my car in 7 years.... and they've been changed 4 times. first set (factory installed) lasted 3-4 years next 3 lasted almost no time at all and this 5th set is going on 2 years.

NICE! the standard short filter is almost half the length of the longer one so it should give you 2 inches or so

I'm more confused by the "5th door" does he mean the trunk?

I'm running sylvania xtra visions right now and they've been in for almost 2 years. small improvement over the basic's but no color change. one thing i did this past time (because i've burned through a bunch) was clean the bulbs religiously with isopropyl and a lint free rag.