rhino6303

I finished the 6MT swap last night. It's SOOOOO much nicer than the 5MT. It's crazy how much quieter the cabin is with a cable shifter. I may have to adjust the horizontal alignment a tad and I'm getting a weird noise from the starter (like it's not fully engaging). Flywheel and clutch setup are new so I'm curious if the noise subsides as the new flywheel wears a tad.

I've been buttoning up the wrx 6MT swap and should be done tonight. All the little things add time and when you can only work for an hour a night it takes forever! On a side note, the PNW facebook page has a 2016 Forester 6MT and diff for sale for really cheap! ($500 I think) I haven't dug in to see if this is different than a WRX 6MT though.

13099AA050 is the camshaft sensor o-ring part number.

It does. The clutches are identical from 2006-2017. The 2018 moved to a 230mm clutch (slightly larger diameter) but the release bearing is still the same.

Oem subaru is the best. I would actually get the updated bearing from the 2015-current wrx. Part number 30502AA160.

Got the 6MT in today. Last night I installed the shifter assembly. Next is to get things buttoned up. Unfortunately I won't be driving it yet because our weather in the PNW is garbage right now.

As I thought, nothing has changed.

You just need the flywheel and clutch/tob to be from the same setup due to dimensional differences in those parts. So either use LGT flywheel, clutch and TOB or NA flywheel, clutch and TOB.

It seems the casting is the only difference. I sent an email to aisin about this but it appears it's been done before.

These replace the lines that contain the fpr on our setup. I used WRX fuel rails with the fpr built in to them.

I took the old 5MT out for the last time today. I'll prep stuff and install 2015 WRX 6MT this weekend. The 5MT has almost 245k and is surprisingly in good shape for age/mileage. No noticeable metal on drain plug even. The homemade trans jack plate was a bit too tall on the sides so I had to put a piece of 4x4 under the trans but it still worked well. I'll trim the sides before install so I don't have that issue.

Just buy these to replace the large bundle by the strut tower. They are oem dampers from 04-07 wrx and stis. You'll need to use a different fpr though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255471490452

The wrx o-rings fit. I have them on my pump/filter. I'm guessing the material is just different as they are all black as opposed to the green of the oem Legacy version. Also, don't forget to use the super lube grease when applying to keep from pinching.

I didn't drive my car this winter but I swapped in a new oem alternator and haven't seen the err since. It may be that I haven't driven enough to notice it but it may have solved my issue.

They are on parts.subaru.com. You need 3x 42025AG070 and 1x 42025AG080.

Bump.

Bump.

It is the heater system.

I made myself a plate to bolt on my jack that makes it a "transmission jack" (at least in theory). Hopefully I'll get to use this early next week to swap in the 2015 wrx 6mt.

That's a turbocharger that is about as good as a paperweight. No ebay turbo will last; they will destroy your motor when they go. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184419697714 This is about as cheap as you're going to get for a used oem turbo. Key word, oem.

The fuel line hose clamps may need to be tightened or replaced.

It is just a line to the transmission cooler. It was done this way because it's a direct line to it. It just so happens that a happy result is that the cylinders run cooler with the additional flow through both heads (cylinder 3 line and cylinder 4 line).

Well the wrecker would only give me a $200 credit. I started the additional tear down on the ej251 block and I'm glad I didn't just send it. The #1 rod bearing was trashed and would create absolute carnage (probably on the first start). I dropped the block off at the machine shop for boring 0.5mm and potentially a line hone/bore. I'll buy two sets of main/rod bearings to get everything in spec. When I mic'd the crank all journals were in spec. The rod bearings were all at the limit of 0.0020" but these were with the original bearings so standard size should still be ok but it's always good to buy a set of undersized too just in case.

It was nice yesterday. Got it out of its winter slumber. Need to put summers back on.

I've always loved the PF01 wheel. Here is an old picture. 17x8+45 with 245/40/17.