LatentWagen

I have a smaller version of the HD one that holds about a hundred pounds of tools. 3 shelves, about 3' wide, with round steel tubing for posts. One shelf will easily hold my weight without bowing, pretty stout stuff for the money.

The crush washer (whether silver or copper) is for the drain plug in the oil pan. The oil filter already has a large rubber gasket on it.

My '08 did about the same on the stock tune, about 140k. 190k now.

From a few pages back. Hope you are on the right track now

Burnout!! Cool bridge, too. We don't have anything like that around here, nor any abandoned industrial sites worth shooting.

Agreed, last pic is "the shot" for sure... shexy

That's likely a lean stumble. Could be leaky intake manifold gaskets, or a torn turbo inlet hose. Look for blow-by (oily residue) at the base of intake manifold, and especially around the clamp on the turbo end of the inlet hose.

Nice work with the rattle can! In for progress

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0N4twV28Mw]Ini Kamoze - Here Comes The Hotstepper (HQ) - YouTube[/ame]

You don't? I like to add a few drops of water to my brake fluid before sampling, or else it's a little harsh.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238134&stc=1&d=1474651419

A terminal is where a train stops, nils.

How are you liking the PP S-04 now that the mold release gunk has worn off? Uber-grippy, right?

There are tuning parameters for this. I notice it because my idle is slightly higher when the car is moving (even if just idling out of gear while slightly rolling)... as soon as I stop all the way, idle settles to the lower ~750RPM range.

That bone is getting smaller.

First (second)! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=237943&stc=1&d=1474394874

Congrats!! Make sure you don't sip that oil sample

Subbed for future reference. Nice walkthrough!

Electric is the future, unfortunately. But combustion motors will always be more fun, with all their shortcomings and inefficiencies like glorious noises, smells, and vibrations... For me, a combustion engine vs electric is like a mechanical watch vs digital. A Timex will always do a better job than a Rolex, but for some reason people still lust after overly complex, inaccurate mechanical watches, which take craftsmen many hours to make, and are fragile at best. Combustion engines will probably share a similarly expensive, enthusiast following in 20yrs.

It's not 5 MPH anymore, it's 2. Still stupid, if you ask me.

Coming along really nicely, WRX USA!

Exactly! Been through ten thousand heat cycles, and just barely broken in. Old machinists and mechanics would cure or season their blocks outside for a certain period. In the 80's the BMW teams would only use 100k+ blocks to make their 1,500HP 4-bangers. They also peed on them to further relieve stresses. Whether that was for the motors or the engineers is another question IMO a tried and true casting with no damage is a better starting point for a build than a brand-spanking new one. All you need is a quick whiff. Veteran turbo Subaru owners can discern the smell of axle grease versus motor oil on a downpipe...

Replacing 4qts over an OCI is almost an oil change worth, so at that rate you're almost in balance, never need to change the oil. Just the filter. And your shortblock sounds fine, as others have said. No need to replace a nicely seasoned block. Re-seal it all around, adjust the valve clearances (replacing exhaust valves isn't a terrible idea), and you'll be good to go. Don't skimp on replacing sensors and little things like PCV valve.

Probably closer to $10k than $1k.