Holla

3k is on the low end. I'd probably ask 5k for it and see what kind of interest there is. If you can prove the motor is still good, it will help your cause.

Let us know if the rattle goes away. I was driving my car yesterday and now I'm noticing just how much the shifter rattles.

I'll need to check this out. Is this to fix a shimmy in the steering wheel on the highway or for the warped rotor feeling while braking?

I'm interested in this reverse lock out rattle fix as well. I have a Kart Boy 6MT STS but I have the same issue.

OEM gold is the way to go.

Have they been for sale for awhile? Mine were not in excellent condition but I had a tough time selling them with the width and offset and lack of clearing Brembo's. I think I ended up selling mine for $600 after they were for sale for months.

If you can find a clean OEM tank, go for it. I think I ended up with a Spectra, no complaints 1.5 years later.

Awesome wheels, very light, they're like 15 lbs. I would still have them if I didn't swap to Brembo's. How much are they asking for them? You can't ever go wrong with a set of forged BBS'.

This seems like a promising lead. Looks like a 4-6 week lead time for them, and $160 and bushings are always a chore to replace but if this is the answer it would be worth it. Edit: Lead time from Whiteline site, looks like rallysortdirect has them in stock, ordered them today! Yes, I've also had this exact same issue with the stock LGT brakes and now the Brembo's. One of the reasons I went to the Brembo's was to try and avoid this problem but yet, here we are again...

Yes, I had them to the point they were smoking, for better or worse...

Yes, when I was in NC a few weeks ago I found some empty roads and really laid into them, over and over trying to rebed them. They did get a little better but now today they are worse than ever, to the point now I don't want to drive the car and this needs to be addressed.

I'll need to take a closer look at the calipers when I remove them, thank you for the suggestion! I had the pads off about 6 months ago, they looked worn evenly but I'll need to take a closer look at the pistons. I have Brembo's so there is no slide pin. The pads were wearing evenly last time I checked but thank you for the suggestion! I'll need to look into this more. When I had replaced the LCA's back 7 years ago, this was my thinking and I had read about issues with this bushing. But I have all OEM stuff so maybe this bushing is just a weak link in the system.

More venting than anything here. I've done countless brake jobs on all sorts of cars over the years and never have I had or seen as many issues with warped rotors or shaking brakes as I have in my own car. I've owned my 05 LGT wagon for almost ten years now. I don't think I've ever went more than a couple of months with brakes that felt perfectly smooth. I've never daily driven this car, it sits for months at a time, mostly in my garage. I had always assumed moisture was attacking the rotors, they often get 'stuck' after the car sits for even a few days. But at the same time my truck sits for months on end, 5ft away from my LGT in the same garage and I've never had any issues with it. I had this issue with the stock LGT brakes and now two years later my Brembo's are in the exact same spot with maybe 10k of use. I made it maybe 3 months with them working as expected and since then it's been a gradual transition back to complete warped garbage. I've tried rebedding them countless times. They will get slightly better, never anywhere back to new, but after a few days of sitting, they're worse than before. I'm assuming this is yet again a rotor issue. I know I either need to get my current rotors turned or buy new ones, I'm running Brembo blanks with OEM Brembo pads in the front. I also need to replace my passenger side axle, the boots are torn, I don't believe this is related to the brake shaking though. I've never replaced the front wheel bearings, they're at least 80k worth of use, if not original to the car that has 181k on it now. I replaced both front control arms about 7 years ago for this issue, thinking the bushings were shot. But that didn't seem to be a long term solution. The steering rack and tie rods were replaced due to leakage a few years ago with a 15' STi rack, that didn't seem to help the brakes any. Spec B 6MT swap went in about 6 years ago with different OEM axles, that didn't help any. I've used countless different wheel and tires setups over the years, it's definitely not a wheel or tire issue. The only thing I can really think of is that there is some sort of issue with the bearings and the rotor runout isn't in spec. Under 20mph it's pretty smooth but anything over that I'm at the point now where the steering wheel is oscillating a good 45 degrees side to side with light braking. What am I missing here? Anyone else have chronic brake issues with your LGT?

Don't quote me on this but I thought the red Legacy font was specific to 2006's. 2005's have the white Legacy and then in 2007+ the clusters changed and didn't have this font anymore. Either way, I've always loved the clusters in these cars.

An OEM rebuild is going to run you closer to 5k. An OEM short block costs about 2k. It really depends on what your power goals are. You can stick with a mostly OEM build and still be around 300whp, which is enough for me for a 15-year-old street car. I would agree though, having some cash around for a rebuild is a good idea.

If you're planning running snow tires, I'd try and find some 17's. I run the 5x100 STi's like you were trying to buy, they are the perfect size for winter duty for these cars.

My rebuild has about 80k on it, I use maybe 1 qt every 5k miles. Up until about 50k I could go 5k miles without ever adding any oil. I check it every time I put gas in it.

Where are you getting the 290hp figure from? I very much doubt you are at 290whp on a stock vf-40 turbo. Seems like a vf-52 would be good choice for you but if your car is running well, I’d just leave it be and drive it. Just for reference, I have a vf-52, 3” catted down pipe, Perrin TMIC and the car puts down about 275whp with a pro tune. What are your goals for the car? Figure out exactly what mods and tune you have before buying anything.

I actually have a set of OEM fenders and a few different sets of headlights in Milwaukee. I PM'd you.

I had noticed that the KYB's had raised the back of my wagon a good 1" after I swapped out the worn OEM shocks, which leads me to believe that the KYB's just sit higher than OEM.

This is what I'm trying to avoid. I'd like to install or rebuild the axle and not even think about it for the next 10 years. I'm getting the same result. The 05-07 OEM boots are considerably more expensive though, like $70 a side for inner and outer so $140 total just for boots for one axle. The 08-09 boots are about $30 a side, so $60 total. Thanks, I'll check them out too!

Yes, my car is a 05' but it has a full spec B transmission swap from an 07'. I was under the impression that the front axles were the same for both though. According to the boots though, Subaru changed something in 08+ though. Any idea what the ballpark is on these? Ok, thank you. Beck/Arnley bots seemed pretty decent though?

Yes, out of a 07' spec B. Did they change the boots at some point? I only see the boots you purchased available for 2008 and 2009 LGT's. My 2005 LGT and also the 2007 spec b are showing a different kit which is $71 a piece, which is why I was considering the Beck/arnley's. I would really prefer to stick with OEM axles. I'm not looking forward to rebuilding them, but I'd also really prefer to stick with OEM axles and a new one just over $300.

I think the price is a fair asking price for the car. The issue is most people who want a $11,000 15 year old Subaru don't have 11k cash laying around to buy it. I sold my 86' inboard boat this past summer and I was shocked when I had people trying to get a 5k loan on it, so they needed to prove the value to their bank for a loan. There's no way a bank would approve 11k for this car so you pretty much need a cash buyer.

I did get some time on Sunday to stretch the legs on the wagon a bit. I didn't make it very far until I saw smoke coming up from the hood scoop at a stop light though. I saw a bunch of oil dripping off the DP and feared that I was leaking oil from the turbo but it appears that my axle boot decided it was a good time to dump a bunch of grease on the DP. A new OEM axle is about $300 or I can get the boots from Rock Auto for $20. I suppose I should just get the boots and try to rebuild it. Anyone have any experience with the Beck/Arnley boots from Rock Auto?