Holla

Still available.

Bump it back up. I'll be in WI for the next few weeks, I'd love to get these out of my garage!

No, it was directed at the post I quoted. Less rotating mass means less inertia though which can lead to stalling issues when clutching in. It's possible the car is having trouble recovering the idle due to less inertia. My Honda used to die all the time. If I clutched in from 5k+ and let the RPM's drop, it would just die. This was due to the light weight flywheel though. I don't think the Grimmspeed pulley is that light, but it may be contributing to your issue.

I put a stainless North Eastern mid pipe on my wife’s CRV. So far it’s been pretty good. Looks like they make one for an Outback https://www.ebay.com/itm/173342583807

Even a semi clean oem pipe is better than a Walker or Bosal, in my opinion of course. I’ve never had much luck with these aluminized steel pieces on any car. If you’re car sees road salt, you might get a couple of years out of it. I’d still rather have a used oem pipe any day. Going with a cheap Ebay stainless system might be an option. Just use the mid pipe and skip the mufflers. Post your location here or start a WTB thread. Someone might have a mid pipe laying around.

Have you tried finding a used OEM mid pipe? That’s going to be your best bet.

I've always been happy with my Excel G's. It started out as a winter setup but transitioned over to full time. I use Epic springs up front and stock springs in the back but after 50K+ the KYB's have been great. This is the softest setup you're going to find. I prefer to run the stock springs in the back rather than use spacers, which also helps with the ride quality. It sits a little higher in the back but gives the car a slight rake. I may be interested in some odds and ends if you're parting out the whole car.

Do you have a light weight flywheel?

What are the benefits of a cross pipe? Not a mod I see many people do, normally they just change the whole manifold. What is the official diagnosis from the spec b? Burnt valve from a bad injector? The 6 speed from the spec B could have been in your wagon a long time ago by now. You could still part it out, that must be a pretty frustrating situation.

I was actually wondering the same thing. I knew a guy in the Milwaukee area who had a twin to my car, looked pretty much identical to this one.

Yes, but for the build level you're at, it makes sense. For the novice LGT owner with a VFxx turbo, not so much.

I've never had any issues removing or installing my Perrin TMIC. Any even so, hopefully your car runs well enough that you're not taking it on and off all the time. In 10 years I've maybe had mine off 5 times and it's almost always been to remove the dog bone to shift the engine/trans around. It just seems to me that a lot of guys that go FMIC end up piecing things together and chasing boost leaks forever. You're introducing a lot of extra piping with the a FMIC, its just more prone to having issue IMO, especially buying a used kit you're just asking for a headache. At $600 you're already pretty close to buying a new Grimmspeed TMIC, which is the most popular option right now, and you're guaranteed to get all new pieces that will fit your car. Perrin's can be found for pretty cheap. I bought my Perrin used 10 years ago for $450, it has served me well.

It had looked like the crimps were coming off the end tanks, the oem TMIC are prone to leaking. Also, unless your doing an aggressive build, most here would recommend sticking with a TMIC.

Thanks for the heads up! Just checked my 6 ton Pittsburgh's I bought last year, thankfully they don't fall into the recalled models.

The gold 04-07 setup used to be pretty plentiful, but they seem to be more rare these days and clean sets are commanding a premium. I was able to find a nice set of gold rears on Nasioc last year for $500 shipped. Just looking through Ebay and Nasioc now though, nothing is jumping out at me. Helicoiling the mounting holes isn't a big deal but make sure that the bleeder threads are good. The brakeswap.com page isn't loading for me either, but I'll keep an eye on it, thanks!

What is the reasoning on not wanting to use the custom rotors? Overall, it is cheaper. The custom rotors and custom parking brake shoes are both about $200 but if you go the shoe route you still need some 5x100 rear sti rotors. If you go option #2, do you still need to trim the trailing arm? I went option #1. The KNS adapter bracket works well, only downside is having to trim the trailing arm. I currently have the 5x100 sti rotors and the lgt parking brake shoes. My parking brake does not work, no matter how far you adjust it out. This was an oversight on my end, I bought the setup used. Even though I already have 5x100 sti rotors, I still plan on buying the custom rotors instead of the bigger parking shoes. The other downside is the oem brake lines are too long with the Brembo's. The angle is different on the Brembo's, causing the oem brake line to be a couple of inches too long. I currently have the slack ziptied to the trailing arm, which I don't like, but at least it keeps it away from the axle boot. I dragged my feet a long time to do the rear setup, I had run the fronts for a few years before. I can't say the rear setup is a good bang for the buck mod. I'll have $1,000 into this rear setup and I can't say I notice any difference between the lgt rear brakes and the Brembo's. For my 100% street car, its mostly an expensive cosmetic mod that no one probably notices but at the same time this was the last piece of the puzzle of my car being 'complete.' It's been frustrating though, I have too much time and money tied up into this and it's still not 100%. This also doesn't take into account the two sets of wheels I bought to clear the brakes. In retrospect, I should have kept the LGT brakes and just swapped to the STI booster/MC and called it a day. Sorry, just venting, probably not the answer you're looking for but maybe it will help someone in the future who's thinking about a Brembo swap. Anyway, does anyone know of any rear brake lines available for the rear Brembo's that are shorter and work on a LGT?

Patience is key in these situations. Wait another few months and one will pop up within driving distance from you. It's a buyers market with car parts right now anyway, there's no rush if you have a working setup. LGT parts were already trending downward and the current economic conditions will only continue to saturate the market. Even a couple of years ago, both of those 6mt swaps would have been sold already. I'm in the same position trying to buy an LS swap for my truck. I know I should wait but I want it now!

Beautiful build, nice to see you actually drive it, and in MN winters at that!

10k for car w/ 100k miles in 2011 with new shortblock. 4K 6 speed swap 2k Brembos 1k black interior swap 2k sti gauge pack/double din/stereo/amp/sub 1k vf52 1k tmic/dp/tune 2k two sets of sti wheels 1k JDM headlights/taillights/spats/lip 1k bearings/bushings/etc 1k suspension 25k all in for almost 9 years and 80,000 miles of driving. Really, not too bad, feel like I’ve gotten off pretty easy compared to others.

I just saw this on CL too. I agree, seems like a solid, stock 5mt wagon.

I've been debating if I should use the conversion rotors or the larger brake shoes but I think it will be easier to switch back if I just use the different rotors, the cost is about the same. Swapping over the rears was one of the last mods on my list but I'm not sure the cost and effort has been worth it. Really the best part of the whole Brembo swap is the STI Booster and MC. Looking back, it probably would have made more sense to just swap the booster and MC and leave the LGT brakes. I ran the front Brembo's only for a few years, which I switched over the rear to Brembo's I noticed zero difference. My car is strictly a street car though. It's an electric cutout. It runs on a 12v motor to open and close a butterfly valve. You can open and close it depending on how loud you want your exhaust to be. I use a 3" Perrin Y pipe with a resonator, the electric cut out, catted downpipe and the stock mufflers. Its pretty much stock sound wise when its closed and it completely bypasses the mufflers when its open. Its kind of like adjusting the volume on the stereo though. You can bump the switch and each small turn of the butterfly is like turning up the volume of the exhaust. It can get pretty rowdy though, I normally leave it about 1/4 of the way open.

Not a whole lot done with the car in the last few months, its pretty much just been sitting in my backyard. Its such a pain to drive this car in DC, it's really meant for the open road. Much less traffic these days, but no where to go. I did finally get around to getting my cut out working again. I removed the old one last week and lasted maybe 20 miles with the pipes open all the time, definitely too loud for normal driving but it was fun for awhile. The car really sounds mean in boost, but it is over the verge of being obnoxious. I'm hoping the bright aluminum will get tarnished soon, otherwise I'm going to need to hit it with some black paint. I also swapped on my summer tires and looked further into why my parking brake isn't working. Turns out I have 190mm STI rotors with the Brembo's and either need larger shoes or rotors with 170mm parking brake. I kind of regret doing the rear Brembo swap, it has not been a cheap ordeal and another $200+ for a set of rotors isn't helping. On top of that I'd still like some brake lines that are better designed for the Brembo's. I'm using the oem lgt lines and the routing isn't great with the Brembo's. I also removed my JDM double din to get the oem sub harness out. Hoping to sell it as a package to recoup the cost of the new cut out. The sub has been sitting in my garage for years now, probably time to pass it along. The car runs great though. It's still not worth selling but at the same time I'm not sure what need it is filling in my life at this point. Some different rear rotors and a trans fluid change it all it really needs right now.

How are your shocks? When I switched from the OEM shocks to the KYB Excel G’s, I gained a good inch in the back, same oem wagon springs.

Can you open the door using the inside handle? You might be able to reach your hand in the door and manually activate the latch or pull the cable, I can't remember now.

You should be able to manually push down the rod inside the door or open it from the inside. Overall, this job is a total suck fest. Very frustrating and the only reward is you can open the door again. I've been there man, if you get frustrated, take a step back.