Holla

The OEM optional gauges use a sandwich adapter. Out of the three gauges, oil temp, oil pressure and boost, I use the oil temp the most. By the time I realize the oil pressure is too low, it would probably be too late anyway. With the temp I know when I can get into boost. It’s also interesting to see how the oil temp changes between the seasons. The engine really runs a lot hotter in the summer.

There are a couple of different threads out there. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-headlight-install-walkthough-249269.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-hid-headlight-conversion-walkthrough-113094.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-usdm-headlight-upgrade-install-and-wiring-diagram-277226.html The big thing to do is you need to swap the projectors from RHD to LHD. There is some minor wiring changes as well. Good luck, one of my favorite mods!

No, I just installed the STI steering link. The steering feels better, it seems to slightly increase vibration through the steering wheel. Follow the write-up that Underdog did, everything you need should be in that thread.

I just installed a STi steering link last month. I bought mine in the classifieds on this forum, think I paid $40 for it. It's a direct swap with the LGT link. I did loosen the bolts for my rack for the swap so this Perrin piece would be easier to install and wouldn't need to realign the wheel. I haven't driven my car much since the install but it does seem to transfer more vibration through the steering wheel compared to the OEM LGT joint. I already had a 15' STI steering rack installed and did a bunch of other front end work at the same time though. The car drives nice and tight, the best it's ever felt.

I wouldn't go with a 6MT swap for the MPG gains. Going from the 5MT to a Spec B 6MT I maybe saw a 1mpg gain on the hwy. 25mpg is pretty much what you're going to get with a LGT and that's on a good day.

Get some JDM HID headlights. They'll pay for themselves. I used to go through bulbs every 6 months with the OEM lights. I even had both of them burn out within a day of each other, resulting in no headlights. I used the OEM HID bulbs my JDM lights came with. 7+ years later, I've never replaced a bulb. I have the lights on 100% of the time I drive my car too. They have literally paid for themselves at this point, way better light output too!

I had a machine shop resurface the rotors and also press the Whiteline Bushings in the LCA's. My car has had a chronic warped rotor feeling at highway speeds. I'll redo the brakes and shortly after I'll get the warped rotor brake shake again. I'm really hoping that they stay true this time around. Right now everything feels really good.

A long weekend of work and a long list of things that I replaced. -Rebuilt both OEM axles -New OEM Ball Joints -Whiteline anti-lift kit -Resurfaced rotors -New Brembo brake pads -STi steering linkage -Changed the fluid on the 6MT -New OEM dustshields -New Timkin wheel bearings. Glad it's back on the ground. Took it for a very short drive today, the car feels very tight. The brakes feel better than they ever have. I haven't driven the car much at all this year. I've only logged 160 miles since I last put gas in it in April, which is pretty pathetic for how well this car drives. The car is due for a timing belt change soon. Hard for me to believe but it's been 80k and ten years since it was rebuilt.

Clean car, glad it was sold before I had a chance to make a bad decision!

A good impact and MAP gas with a quality touch end are worth their weight in gold.

I did actually do something to my car this weekend. Normally, I always have all the parts ready for a repair but I wasn't sure how this was all going to come apart. The main goal here is to rebuild the axles and install the Whiteline anti-lift kit to eliminate the brake chatter I've always had with this car as well as resurface the rotors and install new pads. Using anti-seize has really paid off. I installed my LCA's probably 8 years ago but I was very concerned about getting the ball joints out. The passenger side fell out with a few taps from 2x4, the driver side took a little bit of heat but I still had it out in 15 minutes, which was amazing. I almost just bought new knuckles thinking it was going to be impossible to get these out in one piece. Even the ball joints are still good! Even though the wheel bearings have always worked ok for me, I decided to go ahead and replace them while everything was apart. Took about 5 hours to get all the tools out and gut both sides and drain the 6MT trans fluid. I ordered the parts last night: 2 Timkin front wheel bearings OEM Axle boot repair kits for both sides, crazy expensive btw. It would have been cheaper to buy a new after-market axle. New dust shields I'm having the rotors resurfaced I'm going to install the Whiteline Anti Lift kit for the LCA bushings. New Brembo brake pads Also, trans fluid change I also have a STi solid steering joint and I need to investigate my steering rack. I have a 15' STi rack installed but it seems to be leaking somewhere, which is really disappointing given that it's only a few years old. So far so good, it will be a couple of weeks before I get everything back together.

I'm wondering the same thing. I'm getting the parts together to rebuild my front end. I know my ball joints aren't going to survive removal and reinstall at this point in their lives. I'll be lucky if I can even get them out of the knuckles.

Have you had the car smoke tested yet? These small leaks can really be a bear to track down.

I don't think the 'Interstate' batteries at Costco are real Interstates. I think they're just branded as such. They have a black case with an Interstate sticker on them. The real green top, white case Interstate I have in my boat is awesome. I'm having trouble finding where to buy a real one for my Subaru though. I've definitely noticed a decline in parts, especially in the past few years. It's one thing to buy a cheap part and its another to buy an OEM or equivalent and have it be junk.

I’ve been debating if it’s worth it for the Odyssey or Optima batteries. I feel like I’m going to regret getting a cheap battery but buying a $300 battery isn’t the most appealing right now either. Ive owned a lot of Everstarts over the years but I’ve had bad luck with the latest Everstarts in my truck. I warrantied at least two of them in a year before I got a good one. Same with the ‘Interstates’ that Costco sells. I got two duds before I got one that has latest awhile now. I feel like there’s some really crappy batteries out there now.

I hit a new milestone with my wagon recently, 10 years of ownership, and also 10 years on the forum now. I parked and covered the car in April and finally got back home and uncovered it yesterday. This cover has really been worth it. Besides some dust, she is looking great! I'm hoping this outdoor storage will be coming to an end though, we have plans for building a garage soon. My 8-year-old Farm and Fleet battery is very dead, like won't except a change any more dead. Any battery recommendations? Right now I'm leaning towards a Die hard Gold for about $170. I have to-do list going now: -Passenger side axle -Install Whiteline front LCA bushings -Resurface front rotors -New front pads I also need to start thinking about a new timing belt. Pretty much all the belts and pulleys are due for replacement.

How does the boot on your passenger side axle look? Is it slinging grease onto the DP?

I'm definitely interested. Really depends on location and date. Somewhere west would be preferred for the roads and scenery but it's certainly the furthest for me to get to. If it takes more than 12 hours to get to from DC or WI, I probably wouldn't have the time to make the drive.

That seems so high to me. I paid less than that for my wagon with no rust and less mileage over 10 years ago. I'm concerned my car wouldn't break 10k now with a 6 speed swap in it!

I'm so sorry man, glad you are OK! I had a similar experience with my old Honda a long time ago, lost the back end coming in way too hot around a corner. Almost took it off a huge cliff coming out of Yosemite. It really reshaped my driving style on public roads. Seriously, glad you are ok, I don't even know you personally but my jaw dropped when I read this.

Yes, I would ship to JMP. I'm pretty sure he's in MI, I'm in WI so that wouldn't be an issue at all. $50 shipped should get it there.

I’m moving soon, these need to go!

I’m moving soon, these need to go, no reasonable offer refused!

I’m moving soon, this needs to go, no reasonable offer refused!

Location: Milwaukee, WI Price $100 plus shipping I have a used VF-40 turbo off my 2005 Legacy GT. I had my car rebuilt under warranty a long time ago due to failed short block. The dealer put this used VF40 on my rebuild. I ran it for 500 miles without any issues before I swapped to a VF52. I’m uncertain of the mileage but the axial play of the turbines is minimal. The oil tube has a bend in it from shipping it to myself, it would need to be replaced. This is an OEM Subaru turbo.