Rhitter

Try changing your oil. It's possible you need to flush the system. Also possible your OCVs need to be cleaned and/or replaced.

The catch can is a pretty diverse topic. I would get one with the "heating system" that drains back into the pan. But, I would absolutely hate to have manually empty it. The getadomtune cooling mode seems pretty cool. I hadn't heard about it before.

@XT2005 - I bought this one in December Rear 02 Sensor 22690AA69A And I bought this as my front 02 (bought in October) 22641AA42A I don't remember why I settled on those part numbers, but they seem to be working. Edit: it was because they are what's listed on parts.subaru.com as the number for the GT / XTs.

Dress is business professional. I need stretchier pants. Realistically I probably could ride it to the station. Biking in Utah is commitment. I got a scooter in downtown SLC in the dead of winter and felt like I couldn't feel my fingers for like 20 mins.

I hope. Also not sure how I missed it was that hose. It was super obvious. Really glad it wasn't an oil leak. Now just need to let all the. Residual coolant burn off so I can make sure that's all it was. I also got a new job and now I have to drive 3 mins to a train station every morning. So you know perfect conditions for a turbo subie to run in....

Yep, it was that hose.

I guess I'll just order a couple of those clamps and give it a go. The nice thing is it's obviously coolant (from the smell). Probably just worn out rubber / original clamps. Thanks!

Coolant is leaking somewhere around the turbo. Anyone have any "it's usually this hose" insight? I dug around a little and tried cleaning it off when I had the downpipe off - but it was such a mess that I couldn't track it down to one source.

I rubbed my front driver side wheel on hard compressions at speed. And I hit the bump stops frequently when the back was loaded with people + camping equipment.

Not Joe, but I did. I even had bump stop issues with Legacy GT bump stops and outback upper control arms. That went away when I installed Legacy GT control arms

Fixed 4 wires in my hatch. Backup lights work again and the hatch locks / unlocks. Not sure what the other 2 wires did. But they are reconnected.

My gasket around my reverse lights are failing (fills with water). I wonder if it was a short from that. I have a gasket, just need to replace it. For some reason I waited until it has started raining to do it.... I have seen the warnings for the break in the hatch wiring. More stuff I don't want to investigate.

I used a really long breaker bar and hammered in the Torx+. I also stopped when it was starting to strip and tried the long breaker bar so it wasn't completely gone. also my backup lights are out so: ordered an OEM air fuel sensor for the downpipe and rear backup leds from Diode dynamics.

Just replaced my front 02 sensor and now my rear 02 is throwing a code. Blah.

It looks like the OEM one. But it's thicker and blue! Also it cost $60. Probably worth it if you have replaced your steering rack bushings (which are worth it and you should totally do that too)

Try turning of traction control. Button down low near the steering column by your left knee. See if it still happens.

Same way - haven't move that quantity yet (hopefully never). But sometimes it's just nice to to do stuff by hand. There is that OT thread home improvement projects that's been dead for awhile.

That was basically the symptoms I had when mine went. i.e. nothing. Just a check engine light on super cold mornings.

I seem to have lost my tactrix, however, this worked out for the better because with the help of Th3franz (i.e. he did it all), got a stage 1 tune done. It's amazing how much more efficient it is to have a tuner sit in the car with you.... OEM rack sure is vague feeling compared to the STI rack.

My feelings on the OEM rack remain unchanged. It's very meh. Does the job. No STI rack that's for sure.

The only way I have seen to actually fix it is to plug in a controller that upscales a signal. I found one example of this controller from the UK, but never got a response when I asked if I could purchase it. I am not electrical engineering enough to want to mess with that . Really I just didn't want to spend the time learning how to do that. The one negative is that I think the STI rack is slightly* dartier at like 80mph. Although that could be the Perrin lockdown bushings etc that help remove slop. I'll know once I drive around some with the OEM rack. Almost universally I think there are bad experiences with aftermarket CVs. I think only shops are okay with them because they can switch them out so quickly when they run into a bad one.

I have a tune that's without ELH but with a downpipe. I'll run that in i mode until I get retuned.

Today: removed STI steering rack, GS intercooler, GS downpipe, Tomei ELH. To do: Install OEM header, OEM steering rack, OEM downpipe, OEM intercooler Basically, don't need / use the extra power that the GS stuff gave me. And got tired of the VDC kicking in at random moments. Plus - I can probably sell everything for a little under $2k. Stop and go traffic doesn't need power and my weekend drives are typically just somewhere on the freeway where steering feel and a quick(er) rack makes pretty much 0 difference.

Is slime / goo all over the turbo oil drain tube (to engine) typically just a problem with the actual tube or can it be something else I should look around for. Pulling up-pipe / down-pipe anyway so I'll be in the area. Edit: looks like it might be coming from the crush washers above the drain hose.