Rhitter

I need to change the oil soon. But, I already have a fumitomo valve. If you have your engine undercover, it really doesn't get that dirty.

Mine are starting to leak up at the turbo - 2008 outback with a VF52. I haven't dug into it to much but, if you are already planning on being there, might as well. Especially given the age of these cars now. I really haven't felt like digging into it. But I probably should soon.

I don't know why you would do that. The modifications in this thread (i.e. cut them) are super easy and free.

The meaty tires and the low look so good. Completely non-functional, but good

It's the front also. Same section as yours. lol. Kids. Can basically not blame them, but so, so frustrating. I need to figure out how to replace my coolant pipe / tube from the engine block to the turbo. I have a small leak there. Everything looks very jammed up and compact. Not easy to work on.

Mine does for sure. It makes the whatever "this is the fuel pump" doing it's thing with the key turned in. It's the wait for that sound to stop before attempting to start after clearing / flashing your ECU. I also need moonroof glass mine is cracked. I need a new windshield mine is cracked.

I haven't given it much research (scrub radius). But, there have been a number of tracked outbacks on here (2 that I can recall) that ran STI wheels. Only way to do that is with a 20mm or 25mm bolt on spacer that changes the bolt spacing. They were fine. Potentially you will wear out a wheel bearing faster. But, sort of regardless what you do, at this point a wheel bearing will got at some point soon.

It's pretty much all the same. Outback just sits higher and has less tire clearance due to how the fender arches attach. I think I read / saw you want at least 6 or 7 full turns on the lug nuts. So simple spacers that's only like 5mm. If you get bolt on or longer studs you can of course run more spacers. I think I have seen 20mm or 25mm on outbacks with legacy wheels and it looks good. If you are lowered expect rubbing. If not should be fine.

You will love it. It's a "pretty easy" installation. Just potentially messy.

I should really track down / fix my coolant leaks with this car down time. I think. I don't think the cable clamps completely stopped the turbo from leaking coolant. I also have a slow battery drain, and my battery is dead now.

That happens occasionally on this forum. Mine switched over to German yesterday too.

It's preference. 1/2" will probably give you a slightly raked stance that is level the second you have any weight in the truck. 3/8" will probably give you exactly level. Outback's seem to be heavier in the rear than LGTs and typically need more spacer. I have gone through a set-up that's similar to what you have, but years ago I bought an 1" spacer and 1/2" so all my setups just used what was available to me. The 1/2" usually fit well with no spacer up front. But, I was always okay with a little rake.

I bought a hot racer boy tow hook license plate mounts. Probably the stupidest $80 I have spent. But my front license plate is off to the side now. so #winning? The china versions are probably just as good (of course also not available anymore)

None. On my end. Don't think I ever went as low as you did though. I have had to have parts out many times though which maybe gave them the chance to adjust to the new height?

I don't think anyone has HAD to remove the spacers. A couple have because it's the "right way to lower". You potentially will go through CV joints quicker. But, Subaru's already do....

This happened to me before.

I have been the laziest about listing anything because I haven't wanted to deal with shipping or deal with people

My limited (leather power seats) are pretty comfortable. Not as comfortable as my Sienna, but really not bad.

Those roads around there are really good. I had a lot of fun going along the foothills of the Sierras.

That's what I did. Installed the STI steering rack, kept my u-joint with the Perrin steering lockdown. Dealing with VDC eventually got the better of me and I pulled out the STI rack and it's currently sitting on my garage floor (and has been for months). 08+ have VDC. VDC is annoying and doesn't like the STI steering rack. If you turn off traction control (button by your left knee) it raises the limit for when VDC kicks in. Dragging brakes through decreasing radius turns gets it to kick in 100% of the time though + other random moments. Unplugging the steering angle sensor from the steering wheel should disable it. But, I never personally verified. I was never able to mitigate the rear rub on hard compression because 255/18 is just too big for our wheel well. In general it was gone. But I would still occasionally get inner/outer rub in the rear. Different alignments may have solved this. I solved it by putting in longer springs / raising the rear of the car.

OEM size for an outback is 225/55/17. The outback's don't have wider fenders. They have visually wider fenders that actually have less space than a Legacy (Metal fender mounting points just into the tire). Anything in the +40 range with Outback sized tires on lowered car will have a decent chance of rub somewhere.

The method that worked well for me was. Loosen up engine mounts and then use a 2x4 to pry the engine up just a little bit. That gave me enough room to "easily" get my hands in there to remove the plugs. There was still some finesse to it, but significantly less so.

You can lower outbacks - and that's the route I took because I wanted a Turbo, Manual, Wagon and an LGT was too difficult to find. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5885308&postcount=304 However, as these get up in age lot's need to be replaced. Most any will probably need a new motor which will run you a minimum of $5k probably more.

I spent $24k for the car + $8k for the engine rebuild. Probably at least another $8k into other parts and some maintenance items (like me paying someone to do the timing belt water pump the first time) I probably have close to $40k into the car. it's worth like $4k according to KBB. Investment....lol I really should have bought an STI. It still would have been worth something.

Amazon is super easy to get a return on. Just have to say that the item is "damaged". No other information needed.